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vrs'burks

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Posts posted by vrs'burks

  1. Is the car a facelift or pre facelift?

     

    The facelift has a 38mm wider rear track and can just about manage 8.5j et45. . So et35 on a PFL should be fine.

     

    225/40 on an 8.5j is probably on the limit or just over the limit of the manufacturers reccomendations depending on brand of tyres. .

     

    Rubbing shouldn't be an issue unless you go really low ( on a PFL it might not be an issue at all)

  2. Yeah its very annoying.

     

    I fitted the upgraded parts because I couldn't be arsed with messing about with the dealers (they just cba themselves and take ages to even book you in). . I still have just under a year used approved warranty left, but no doubt they wouldn't want to touch it now because of the upgraded parts.

     

    My GFs mum has a 22 plate seat arona fr. . Had it since new n that developed noises when slow maneuvering with only 7k on the clock. . The dealers greased the front wishbone rear  bushes, which is also well documented on forums. . But just their way of cheaping out of replacing parts they know will fail again/have a bad design.

  3. I've done ecs tuning uprated top mounts,febi bilstein bearings and meyle HD drop links in the past year on the front of mine and the knocking has still come back. . 

     

    Like the OP has said it's slow moving manoeuvres that cause it. . Normal turns are fine. 

     

    Mine is like a click like it's got square bearings in the top mounts, for now I'm just putting up with it as it's unnoticeable 95% of the time.

     

    As for the "Has anyone has this one before? " . . I've looked on various forums and any and every MQB chassis car seems to have crappy suspension woes 

    • Like 1
  4. 14 hours ago, EnterName said:

    Thanks guys! That's a relief. They've always stayed in place until now, but to be fair, I haven't jacked the car up that many times.

    I was using some of this stuff to keep my rubber's supple.

    Not sure if it's a waste of time, or might do more harm than good, but I'm going to give it a go.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00295D0HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I've used gummi pflege on all my door and window seals before winter. . Helps them stop drying out and also freezing shut.

     

    The one I used was in bingo style dabber pen, designed for the seals.

    • Like 1
  5. 3 hours ago, BlockABoots said:

    One thing i forgot to mention is they also tried to change me for 3 x£7 for coolant to top the system back up as they said the 'BLUE' coolant i had in the boot wasnt the right stuff and needed to be 'PINK'!!!. What does the colour have to do it!??. I told them to just top it up with water and ill add my own

    Quite alot. . Don't mix them or you could end up with jelly for coolant.

     

    Just top up with distilled water for now, but the coolant contains alot of additives to prevent internal engine corrosion. . So you don't want to completely dilute it, which will eventually happen if your losing coolant quickly

  6. Coolant pump housing is a massive weak point them. . Not just on vrs' but all the VAG platforms using the tsi engine.

     

    Mine had waterpump and housing replaced under warranty with less than 28k miles on it last year. . Had the same symptoms, coolant collecting on undertray and having to top it up almost daily. . I also noticed a very sweet smell when the engine was hot after it'd been running and the sump was covered in white streaks where the coolant had dried on.

     

    I'd get the dealer to look at it,diagnose it is the waterpump, then get a independent specialist to replace it, will work out cheaper.

     

     

    • Like 1
  7. 2 hours ago, roaddetective said:

     Improved new intercooler, or no new intercooler, that is the question? 

    Obviously cooler air charge will improve performance, how much performance you gain vs cost is the big question to ask. . .

     

    Naturally it will gain something, but to get the most from the new cooler would need a map tweak to suit ideally. . So even more money on top of the cost of the cooler.

     

    Once you start spending it never seems to stop does it 🤣

  8. Cooler air into the engine 😉 the intercooler is post turbo. . 

     

    I can't comment personally as I haven't done it yet,but its on my list to do.

     

    What intercooler has he suggested? If its £900 including fitting that's not bad.

     

    I've been quoted £300 just for fitting from a vag specialist.

     

    With most of the coolers around the £600-ish mark. . 

     

    Check out the do88 intercooler that seems good value.

    • Like 1
  9. The "40mm" is based off a standard octy. . .with the vrs been 15mm lower from the factory. . . It only lowers them 25mm. . 

     

    I think there is 4 different part numbers for the springs dependant on axle weights (displayed on a label inside the driver door jamb)

     

    For reference- I have a 68 plate 245 dsg hatchback and the h&r springs I have fitted are 28833-1 

  10. Are they pilot sport4 or pilot sport4S you have fitted?

     

    At £360 I'm guessing just pilot sport4

     

    I've just had the pilot sport5 fitted to my vRS and upto now they seem awesome.

     

    As said above, alignment check might be worth doing. .

     

    Or are you "putting it into a moderate bend" a bit too quick. . The octy is certainly no up gti in terms of size or weight, you can undo traction pretty easily in every direction if not carefull.

  11. 48 minutes ago, Mr Grump said:

    Thanks guys, another question if i may:

    What is good for cleaning after polishing before waxing /LSP ?

    Is 99% Isopropyl alcohol good, or mixed with a specific percentage of de-ionized water, or best to use something like Bilt Hamber cleanser fluid ? 

     

    Don't use iso neat, or you could ruin the finish you achieve.

     

    I use it 50/50 with water.

     

    If you have chance check out "White details" on YouTube. . .the guy has an insane eye for detail when it comes to sorting a car, he also shares tips etc for best practices.

     

    He even did a comparison (I think on Instagram) on a freshly polished panel vs after it's been wiped over with isopropyl. . . The panel looked amazing freshly polished, after it had been wiped revealed there was still dammage present that the oils/residues from the polish had been inadvertently hiding.

     

    • Thanks 1
  12. They have "E10" on the label inside the fuel filler cap. . . Although e10 is "new" here in the UK. . . Its been common place in alot of Europe for a while. .so the cars have been adapted to run the stuff long before we got it over here. . 

     

    As for running "performance" fuel. . I've dropped shell vpower for tesco momentum. . About 8-10p per litre cheaper!

  13. 1 hour ago, DEZMONDE said:

    A question please.

     

    I am looking to book in for my diesel VRS to get the RacingLine treatment but have been told that any other coding can possibly affect the tune.

     

    Has anyone experienced any issues of this kind?

     

    Ive changed a few options in the past which i would like to keep.

     

    Thanks in advance

    I don't see how. . The tune would be on the ecu and the coding will be on a convenience unit in the car.

     

    I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure they shouldn't interfere with each other.

  14. I've got mine done. . 

     

    It's a very subtle almost oem looking blue/purple flip, which looks wicked against my meteor grey paintwork.

     

    I've seen very garish yellow/green/red chameleon screen tints n they look horrendous.

     

    Wipers don't affect it, the film is on the inside of the window like any other tint.

    IMG_20220124_204405_316.jpg

    • Love it! 1
  15. I'm pretty sure the guy behind the racingline software side is the guy who used to run shark performance, and they always had massive praise on here.

     

    When my warranty is up I think I'll be going the racingline route, they are the only ones at the minute who are showing gpf specific maps for the newer stuff on there site.

  16. 5 hours ago, tinman80 said:

    Long shot as so long ago, but did you resolve this problem and what was it? Mine has started using up engine coolant now (started at about 31k, now coming upto 35). First time alarm came up, and I've since kept an eye on it and had to top up twice as on min level marker. Oil seems ok so dont think its getting into there, not sure where water pump is to have a look. Will ask at dealer of course when next service is due. Cheers

    Water pump is down the front of the engine, if its leaking the coolant usually leaves white marks where its dried . . If you look under the car at the sump its obvious if it is leaking,the honeycomb plastic sump cover will have residue in it.

     

    When mine was leaking I could also smell it when I got out of the car,it's a really sweet sickly smell.

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