Jump to content

citroenzx

Finding my way
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

citroenzx's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/17)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. As everyone has said - an excellent guide. A few notes from me to anyone thinking of doing the work: As suggested by someone earlier - take out the driver's seat - 4 bolts 4 minutes - this allows you to lie on your back on the car floor and look up under the steering column. Get a head mounted LED torch - allows you to see what you are doing whilst using your hands. Unclipping the central locking ECU carrier is easy if you reach up behind it through the hole in the mounting and push the locking tab towards the ECU with a finger whilst pushing the carrier towards the front of the car, and upwards to unclip it. Take the ECU out of its carrier but do not unplug it. I found unplugging impossible but then discovered that I could get at the sensor by just moving the ECU out of the way. Two bright green wires, so you can't miss it. Unplug it before pulling it out - you can't unplug it when it is not captive. I measured the resistances of the new sensor before putting it in place. For those who can solder, who are into electronics, and like to save cash, here are the readings: 4.5 centigrade 7.2k ohms, 4.8 centrigrade 6.67k ohms, 20.5 centrigrade 3.33k ohms. This looks like the RS code 697-4566 at a cost of £1.85 or the Farnell code 1888077 at £1.45. The cost of my new sensor from the VAG parts shop was £22. Including vacuuming the floor under the seat where you can't normally reach the whole job took less than 2 hours. Best of Luck
  2. Has anyone come across this one before? When I start my 1.9TDI from cold all is absolutely normal - the engine starts immediately and runs at slightly higher than normal tickover. When I start the engine when at normal working temperature, the engine starts and idles at normal tickover speed. However, at a certain temperature between cold and normal - if I start the engine, it revs instantly to about 3,000 rpm for mabye 1 second and then drops back down to normal idle speed. During this revving, the tappets rattle and I am worried that other damage may be being done before the oil pressure comes up. During this latest spell of hot weather, the engine revved like this on starting after sitting in the sun all day - engine not been running for 8 hours. I guess that the problem is due to a sensor somewhere, starting to show its age - the temperature gauge however, seems to work absolutely normally. Has anyone any ideas of what I might check? Regards Quent
  3. I have a 1.9 standard TDI and have done about 76k miles from new. From the start the heater took a fairly long time to produce much hot air, and on complaining about this to the dealer, and asking if the thermostat could be changed, I was told that it was a characteristic of the PD engine. I have heard others comment on this also. My car is a 2001 model. I was wondering how quickly other members cars heaters warm up. I should mention that the temperature gauge takes about 10 minutes of normal running to come up to the straight up and down "normal" position and once there, it never varies however hard or lightly the car is driven. Also, once showing normal on the temperature gauge the heater output is good. Do the more modern models heat up more quickly than this?
  4. 2 weeks ago I had the belt, water pump, tensioner and idler replaced on my PD100 Fabia. This was done by a local garage who I trust. The cost was
  5. I have an 01 1.9TDI and it has had a rattle from the front nearside suspension for about 18months. The Skoda dealer in Aylesbury has had the car on numerous occasions and has replaced the strut, the top mount, the anitroll bar, the drop links and a bush on the wishbone. The noise occurs if I go over a hump with the nearside wheel but is silent if I go over the hump with the offside wheel. It seems that jacking the car up so that the wheel is off the ground and the suspension falls to its full travel clears the fault for about 20 miles after which it re-occurs. I have now given up on the garage and will maybe take off the strut and have a look at the top mount when the weather gets a bit warmer. A problem I have found with the car is the lack of a Haynes Manual to give info on torque settings. I will monitor this string with interest- best of luck. Quent:(
  6. Has anyone any experience of buying one of the VAG COM leads on e-bay. I am worried by the prospect of connecting the lead to the diagnostic socket and wiping all of the settings from my (standard) Fabia TDI computer. Has anyone bought one that works fine? Also there are a number of different discriptions - I am Ok with the choice of serial or parallel but what would be the correct lead for the Fabia with the CAN bus? Quent :confused:
  7. I know this is an old thread but please could you let me have details of the oil - if it is a revision to quieten down the transmission. My Fabia PD100 has a bit of transmission noise at tickover and very low speed. Thanks
  8. I bought a 100PD engined Fabia about a year ago and have always been disappointed in the amount of transmission noise at really low road speeds. When driving at tickover - e.g. in traffic jams - the transmission is quite vocal, making a low course growling noise. This can be heard up to about 15 mph. There is also sometimes a light clonk from the transmission on changing gear as the clutch is released. Also in neutral at tickover, there is a slight noise from the gearbox which disappears when the clutch is depressed. I had the clutch release bearing changed under warranty but this made little or no difference. I had a test drive in a VRS and the transmission on this (new) vehicle was almost silent - a different gearbox completely. I have had my car to 3 Skoda dealers for the growling transmission and all of their mechanics have agreed that the transmission is a bit noisy but as soon as the warranty rep appears they start to say things like "within manufacturing tolerances". I am coming around to this view, having taken the car from 12,500 miles to 33,500 with no apparent worsening of the noise. I think part of the problem is that the car is generally very quiet so small noises that wouldn't be noticed on an inherantly noisier car tend to get your attention in the Fabia.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.