Squidula

You can get a harmonic balancer for the rear calipers that will stop the noise. But its over £100. They pop up on ebay every so often though. Its not an uncommon thing with rear discs for some reason, had it on my old megane 225.

I had a look at it the other day (when I thought I smashed the sump on a raised manhole, luckily I didnt lol) it seems like a very easy thing to change, and Ill probably either get that ECS one, or the FR3 mount I reckons.

You got the same jack as me Yeah I deffo need to do mine.

I think my plan will be to paint them, or rather to buy new ones, paint them then replace the old black ones with colour coded ones. I considered removing them, but parking dents annoy me much more than plastic trim.

Just gave car a quick wash, and wax. Way too hot really, but it needed some protection on it. Lets see your summer pics then guys

Did you just change the bushes or the whole mount?

I want to change the dogbone mount for an uprated poly bush one. What ones do you guys have, and which are the best, easiest to install, cheapest, and most popular ones people use? So far I have seen the FR3 one on Awesome GTI, and the ECS Ultimate one. Both similar price, any other options? Which is arguably the better option and why? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I fitted my H&R rear 25mm ARB today. Initial impressions are its very good, can definitely feel the back end being stiffer, and can hold a better line through long sweeping bends at speed. Admitedly, testing it in the pouring rain made it difficult to exploit all the benefits, but they are there. Looking at some of the pictures in this thread, I can comment on the fixings used to clamp the bar to the rear beam are not that great on the H&R one. Theyre metal straps that you tighten with a bolt, and are really fiddly and not too well thought out in my opinion. The U-Clamps seem a much better solution to me. My bar also bolts directly onto the suspension lower strut, using a longer bolt to go through and hold the shock. This was annoying too, because when I removed the old bolt the shock immediately extended itself to prevent the new bolt being slid through. After some gentle persuasion with a hammer I got the shock to comply.

Ok so finally had a day without constant rain, so I thought I would swap my carpet. Tools needed are: torx bit (I forget what size) Screwdrivers, flat and cross head 13mm socket Ratchet 19mm spanner knife Optional Tools: Trim remover (think of it as a fork) Disclaimer: For piece of mind I suggest you disconnect the negative lead from the car battery since there are some electrical connectors involved when removing the interior. Any information given below is to be used as a guide, and done at the owners risk. I also recommend you wear disposable gloves and change them frequently, or wash your hands frequently throughout to avoid putting greasy stains on the seats. Steps Involved: First you need to remove the covers that are over the seat rails on the floor pan. Slide the seat forwards. Prise off the little plastic cover, and remove the torx screw. Theres one screw to each rail, and four rails in total (two for each front seat): Then slide the seat all the way back, and remove the two 13mm nuts that secure the seat to the floorpan. Once removed you should be able to push the seat backwards and be able to tilt the seat backwards. Disconnect any electrical cables attached to the seat. My drivers seat had a belt warning sensor, that was it. Then remove the seat from the car. Theyre quite heavy, so either get help, or be careful when removing to avoid damage/scratches on any trim or bodywork: With both front seats removed, you will be left with this. Here is one of the reasons why I changed the carpet: Now you need to remove the rear bench. This has got to be the easiest job ever. Pull the bench forwards, and tilt it up (as if you were folding the rear seats down). Then unhook the seat bases, and withdrawal from the car: Next you want to remove the B Pillar trim panels. These just pop off: Next remove the sill trim panels. These again just pull off. I also pulled back the door seals too which are just pushed over a metal lip along the edge. Be careful when removing the sill trim panel, when you pull it off some of the metal clips may be left attached to the metal sill, and not the trim piece like they should be. These might need to be prised out with a screwdriver if theyve clipped into the holes on their own. One of the clips is shown below with the hole underneath it: I also removed the plastic button by the base of the C Pillar, to help aid removal of the carpet: This is just screwed in, and its easy to undo with your thumb. Its not necessary to remove the trim it screws into, since only the corner of the carpet is slipped under it: Onto the centre console. Remove the rear cup holder, this just pulls out, and the rear coin slot thing, again this just pulls out. This exposes a couple of torx screws, remove these: The rear section of the centre console should lift up now, unplug the cigarette lighter cable then withdrawal the trim piece: Pull the gear gaiter away from the centre console, and then the plastic trim surrounding the gear stick: Remove the torx screws that hold the second part of the centre console in, just infront of the handbrake: Remove the ashtray, then remove the four torx screws that are under the ashtray: Withdrawal the ashtray trim, and disconnect the wiring to the little led: Remove the trim panel that surrounds the stereo, and climate control panel, this just pops off: Undo the long screw that is on the carpeted bit of the centre console, and remove the drivers foot rest: Now its time to withdrawal the centre console. This is the hardest part of the whole job. Pull the centre console towards the back of the car, and it will unclip itself from the lower part of the dash as shown below. Then you need to carefully lift the centre console over the gearstick, and infront of the handbrake lever. I had to put the handbrake on quite hard to get enough clearance, and select a gear to get the panel clear: There are also a couple of other bits you need to remove. For some reason my phone has deleted the pictures of the trim pieces at the base of the A Pillars. These have a little oval cover on them, pop this off, then remove the two screws on each side. The Passenger side can be taken out, the drivers side has the bonnet release attached to it, but removing the screws gives you enough room to get the carpet underneath. There is also a plastic nut that sits under the throttle pedal, this just unbolts with a 19mm spanner: To remove the carpet from under the lower part of the dash you can either remove more parts of the interior, or cut the carpet to allow you to remove it. I cut the carpet when removing, and also on the black carpet when refitting to save time. With all the trim fitted you cant notice it and it makes the job a lot quicker and easier. Another thing I found was that my donor carpet didnt have the right floormat fasteners, the skoda ones just unscrew and I replaced the VW popper ones to allow me to keep my vRS mats fastened to the floor. As with all DIY guides, the refitting is the reverse of the removal. When the new carpet is in the car, I would suggest you give it a good vacuum (unless its brand new, then probably not needed), because you wont get better access than when there are no seats. Then you should be left with this: Make sure the carpet is seated properly, especially around the pedals, on my first drive after fitting the carpet, I noticed my throttle pedal was sticking slightly from the carpet rubbing against it. Ill have a hunt for the other photos if theyre still there, and edit accordingly.

I cleared this code and it stayed code free for a week or so, checked it on saturday and the same code was back on. Cleared it again, and also took the car out with a boost gauge fitted. Its holding 19psi then trails off further up the rev range as it should do, so I dont believe theres any issue with the map itself causing overboost. I think its unmetered air from a split pipe somewhere. Had a rummage around and couldnt find anything that looks even remotely perished. What are the common hoses that split and can cause this fault code? Ive looked at the 3 hoses coming from the n75 vavle and they all seem fine, although havent checked the wastegate hose all the way down due to access, Ill have a look at it when I get under the car, I assume access is easier that way. Since the car is hitting 19psi it suggests the n75 isnt at fault if the car produces the required boost level, unless maybe its sticking and delaying the wastegate opening on occasion causing a very brief overboost?

Ive got front and rear anti roll bars on the way for the car. Eyeing up the dogbone mount too. I keep thinking about the milotec arch extentions but not sure yet, and the milotec side bumper vents. Hi Paul, yeah I know mods dont often add value, but I normally only change something for me, I never think about resale time with cars. Im still getting used to the car, maybe its a bit new and clinical for me. Should be saving me some money on travel costs though which is the reason I went for it in the first place (not ready to get a derv yet haha). When I fit the FARB Ill have a look at the dogbone mount.

Not really wanting to go to stage2, I dont think the power gains are worth the cost of it.

Ok well Ive had the vRS for nearly 2 months now, and the purchasing has begun. In the post at the moment (I believe its on a very slow boat from China) are front are rear H&R Anti Roll Bars, which will be going on the car when they arrive. Ive also got a black carpet to fit to the car as soon as the weather improves. So what should I change next? The car is remapped stage 1. Im thinking about maybe a silicon TIP? And also looking at the TT arch vent mod. Any other suggestions?

Ive stuck a boost gauge on the car today and its holding 19psi ok, so that suggests that its producing the correct boost levels it should be at stage 1. If the boost is 19psi, could a faulty n75 valve restrict power in a way that wouldnt be shown with a drop in boost pressure?

Theyre £45 from Skoda now