blackdawg

Sorry, forgot to say. When I went on my test drive the performance was markedly down and when hitched to my reader I received an error code 17964 (charge Pressure Control), Meaning that the Turbo wasn't operating properly. I cleared the error code and suddenly I was on full power for a minute and then once more I felt the engine performace slump. I cleared the code again and away she went and has done since. I guessed from the error code at the beginning that this was probably due to the excessive quantity of easy start circulating in the system from the garages and that the sensors were picking up the fumes and shutting the turbo down, once the smell of easy start had cleared (the car was reeking of it) after a couple of minutes of road testing, I didn't and haven't had any more trouble.

FIXED AT LAST!: The glow plugs unfortunately were not the problem, although the car probably wouldn't have started with them being broken. Next following advice from Briskodian and reading other contributors posts, I checked the fuses and the fuse panel (inside driver's door side). I removed and looked at each fuse in turn and inspected the wiring to the rear of the fuse panel. Nothing to see except the electric window fuse shattered as I removed it. I replaced the shattered one and for the thousandth time I turned the ignition key. Instantly it clattered into life. I was elated after 3 months without it firing other than on easy start. I pulled the electric window fuse and tried starting the car again. No problem. I thought I would try the stop light fuse to see if that had caused it. I pulled it out and the engine started and kept running for 10 seconds then stopped as the ECU cut the fuel. Tried starting again – nothing. I gently replaced the fuse and she started again instantly. OK this was as other people had said but this was not probably my original problem. I turned the engine off then wobbled the fuse holder and tried again – wouldn’t start again. So now with a dead engine again, I gently removed all the regular sized fuses and commenced testing them with a meter, gently placed them back and tried the engine again, no start still. Nothing until I got to the three yellow fuses beginning with the HRW which shattered as I pulled it out. I tested the next two being the horn and windscreen wiper and then decided to replace all 3 of them with new ones as clearly the fuses were becoming tired if now two had shattered. I tried the engine again and it started instantly again. I have since tried removing those three, wobbling the panel and the engine fires instantly each time and has done for two whole days of stop start motoring. I don’t understand how the HRW fuse or one of the other two could have convinced the ECU to turn off the fuel but that clearly seems as though what was happening. Each time I replaced a fuse I was particularly careful not to put pressure on the panel and so upset the results of my testing. I have since replaced all the larger fuses on the panel and on top of the battery and have just purchased the smaller sized ones to fit tomorrow, so the car will have all new fuses throughout. I hope that my notes may help someone else with the same situation. Thanks Briskodian for your assistance.

Thanks very much Briskodian. State of play is that yesterday I found two of the glow plugs top pins which clip into the contact bridge had broken away and a third is bent. All glow plugs will work when earthed to their bodies and all parts of the rail work, so could be that I just need new glow plugs with ends attached and hopefully management light will go out and the car will start. Getting them ordered and will let you know. Trouble is, so many people have looked at this car and you just don't know if these parts have been broken since the original fault. Again many thanks for your help.

Thanks for your input Briskodian. I am moderately DIY skilled, have most DIY Tools, but do not have garage facilities. Have replaced all the suspension on the Fabia myself but am totally new to Diesels. Don't know if I'm skilled/brave enough to try removing the injectors, is this a difficult job, does it need special tools to remove/replace them. I've seen them squiring into a bottle on WheelerDealers when Ed was checking them on a Range Rover. I looked inside the rocker cover which Skoda had left loose when they downed tools when I ran out of money, (no problem with this implied as money my problem not theirs). All looks as per diagrams, but injectors seem to be buried beneath the cam. Glow plugs were removed by Skoda and said that they looked a little drier than expected, so I would assume that they checked that they were working, again I will check myself if not too difficult. Good idea on the wiring, will look into how to do this further. BTW I failed to mention in my inital post that when ignition key turned usual squishy sound comes from engine bay which I suppose suggests that the system is being pressurised.

Been a member for a couple of years and car has been so well behaved I never needed to ask anything till now. Apologies for length of post. Car running like a dream parked up for 20 minutes, went to start it, engine turns over faster than usual but will not fire (except with easy start). Symptoms: Ignition On: After a few seconds all lights go out except, Engine Management Light.Turn Key to start: Engine turns over fast but will not fire. Engine Management Light Flashing, Glow Plug Light Solid. No fault Codes generated. Fuel is going to pump. Engine will fire with Easy Start squirted in through Air Box but will not run on its own diesel system. Work Done: Main Dealer could not get the engine to run long enough on easy start in order to use their diagnostic system. They tried fixes but I ran out of money to let them keep shooting in the dark. New Skoda crankshaft sensor fitted. If sensor connection plug is separated then crankshaft sensor fault code appears. I have checked the continuity from the connector to the ECU. Pins 110 white and 102 brown Good (black connects to 102 at ECU) (I also tried fitting a patent sensor which didn’t look quite the same length and sure enough it generated a fault code). If camshaft position sensor connection plug is separated then camshaft sensor fault code appears. Main dealer have tried a temporary new tandem pump. Temporary replacement ECU. They have checked some wiring and the earth. Compression Check. OK Cam belt Timing. OK Looked in rocker cover nothing untoward. Replaced Brake Pedal Switch. Replaced No15 position Diesel Direct Injection System Relay (Genuine 469). Disconnected Alternator. Changed Battery. Engine Oil, black but seems not too thick and within service intervals. I have bypassed the valve on the outlet pipe from the pump and tried it with and without the pipe clamped. Main Dealer suggests that keyway on either the crank or cam pulley may have sheared and moved either out of alignment. Thinking though, if this were the case would not the sensor show a fault code or when I separated the cam position sensor connector then I believe the ECU defaults to using the signal that the Crankshaft Speed Sensor generates which would then not show up the misalignment. It seems to me that the ECU is generating fault codes if I induce an error yet it is not detecting THE fault, yet somehow the engine management light is coming on. I am baffled and can’t afford to throw any more money at getting it diagnosed. Can anybody help?