triumphtigger

Thanks for your replies, I have been away but will look at the car again when the rain stops!

I have a 2006 4x4 Octavia 2 (not a Scout). Yesterday I found that my rear wiper didn't work (it had stopped in the parked position). Later, when I pulled up at lights, the rear wiper did two intermittent wipes and I thought it was okay again. But I was wrong, it hasn't worked since then. I have rain sensing wipers (front only, of course). I always leave the wiper switch in the sensing, intermittent wipe position. Today I used the washers, and the wipers came on like they should, but when the automatic wipes finished, the wipers stayed on intermittently, as if on timer. I had to flick the lever down to stop them. The front wipers no longer respond to rain, only to the switch. When I switch to rain-sense position they do the timed auto wipe thing, the intervals dependant on the small switch that usually controls the sensitivity of the sensor. I thought the rear wiper had failed, but it is clearly more complicated than that. The fuse is okay - and I can hear a relay click when I lift the stick to the rear wiper position. I'm convinced these two things (rear wiper failing and front intermittent wipe reverting to timer rather than sensor) are related in some way. The only thing I have done recently (that may or may not be connected) is to set a speed warning for the long 40 limit over the Forth Road Bridge. I toggled the switch a few times because it's years since I used it. MFD came up accidentally, with the warning that I couldn't change settings unless stationary. Because I kept my eyes on the road I might have inadvertantly changed something? Any ideas please...

Thanks Tech1e, I won't do it, too many risks, I think. Even if the oil goes in, I'm worried it will be forcing itself through oil seals. Somehow I have to get that filler plug out...

Tech1e, yes, that is the filler I've been trying to undo, but its female Allen faces are rounded. What I need to know is if I can fill through the drain (not rounded, and okay to undo). But I don't want to fill though the drain if the unit is sealed (no air bleed) or my oil gun will just compress the air inside and the oil will blast out again. Nobody seems to know if this will happen and I daren't try it or I'll end up with no oil in the Haldex.

I have read somewhere that one type of Audi/VW Haldex can only be filled through the drain, but I'm reluctant to try it in case it is a completely different box.

Filler plug is not that accessible, it's just about possible to fit the Allen key in it. I'm wondering if the dealer actually managed to get the filler out when he was supposed to do the last oil change. If he did not, that's a worry, because it will have done 130,000 miles on the original oil!

(Just looking at other Briskoda pages and see that the filter might be integral with the clutch pump on this model, so I probably have one - but it is low down, so it doesn't help me with the above problem)

I have a 4x4 (not Scout) and want to replace my Haldex oil. I have the right oil and I know which is the filler and drain plug. My model has no oil filter. The filler plug is seized. The correct size Allen key simply rotates, the plug has no flats and there is now no way to remove it. Presumably the Skoda garage that last replaced the oil was too heavy handed with their key. I can remove the drain plug - so the only way to fill it is through the drain and I am okay with that - except that I don't want to drain it and then find the oil won't go in! Does anyone know if there is an air bleed or vent in the Haldex? Because if there is not, then once I have drained the oil there will be no way to get it back in, all that will happen is that the air in the Haldex will compress as I use my oil gun and the new oil will be forced out as I'm pumping (or even worse, it might force its way through internal oil seals?) If there was a filter on this model I could of course remove or slacken that. I have tried removing the holding bolts (in turn!) but their tapped holes are all blind-ended, they do not connect with the inside and therefore cannot be used as vents. At the moment I daren't drain it in case the oil won't go back in. If that happens I'm stuffed, there's no way to refil it. Suggestions please...?

Thank you all for your help, problem now sorted. More serious than I thought, rear nearside wheel bearing failed and bolt heads worn so it became a (expensive!) garage job!

Thanks, Scouter, I'll check that.

I have a 2006 Octavia 2 1.9 TDI 4x4 and I want to refurbish the rear brakes. Unfortunately the 4x4 doesn't seem to appear in Haynes manuals or any other manuals that I can find. It is NOT a Scout, as I believe they came out a year or so later. I have checked year codes in the following parts lists: http://www.partscats.info/skoda/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=sk&number=81 My VIN starts with 1Z8, yet that appears on the list to be a 2008 vehicle. Can anyone help with this confusion? Thanks, TT

Not only at speed, every bump. Can't hear it with the radio on, even low, so it can't be that loud. Strange it's only the left side, and strange it stopped when they did the front anti roll bar bushes and almost everything else at the front end (springs too). The sound does seem to be exactly the same as before, and from the same place - though I can't pinpoint it. Middle, rather than front or back - but I suppose it might be transmitted noise from the source. Is there anything in the front that might have changed since they fixed it all? We have some pretty bad roads around here, but I don't recall hitting any big potholes.

I have a 2006 4x4, pre-scout TDI Around this time in 2012 it developed a dull, hollow thud from under the left side of the car. At service in Spring they replaced a lot of the front suspension, yokes and bushes mainly (I'm not that conversant with modern suspensions). Now the sound is back, noticeable only when I drive over uneven bits of road. Like before, I can't tell if it is front or back. The sound is hardly noticeable. My wife can't hear it - but I used to work on a marine diesel test bed, so I guess my ears are tuned to such things. Years ago, when I could actually fix cars myself, I would have been sure the noise was from worn shocks. Now I'm not sure. Any ideas? I'm wondering if the cold weather has anything to do with it?

I put this in uppercase in the hope it will save someone a few pounds as it did for me. In recent floods I got damp in a headlamp unit and it misted up completely. I took off the rear rubber seal (the easy to get to circular one) and taped a bag of drying agent (probably calcium chloride) around it. That didn't work, nor did a (fresh!) bag of silica gel. I found an old 12v computer fan that fitted exactly over the opening. I taped it in place so it blew inwards, connected it up and ran it for about 24 hours. Scared it would flatten my battery I actually used a small motorbike battery that I slipped down into the space behind the light. The headlamp cleared completely. I removed the fan and replaced the rubber seal. That was three weeks ago and it hasn't misted up since.

Thanks guys. Not dirty, so hopefully it is just the wet.

I'm sure this has come up before, but there is no search facility so I can't check. After recent floods my reversing sensors are misbehaving. Most of the time they are fine, but occasionally the screen dances from one side to the other, showing obstructions that are not there - at various distances. Any suggestions please?

I'm sure this isn't the first time this has been raised. The auto-sensor wipers on my Octavia II drive me crazy, they are next-to-useless. I reset them constantly, also adjust the sensitivity switch but they still work poorly, running fast when there is hardly any rain to wipe but even worse, not wiping at all when I need them. Is there any way to have them changed to a more relable, human-controlled intermittent wipe, as on my wife's Fabia?

Electronics box replaced under warranty, everything now works! TT

FordFan, unfortunately disconnecting the battery didn't work and everything is the same. Looks like a costly garage fix! Thanks, TT

FordFan, thanks for that. I'm away until the weekend (the car still drives okay) and I'll try your suggestion when I get back - don't want to risk making anything worse before this trip! Also, it's minus six outside so I'm not that keen on doing it today. Will let you know how I get on. TT

I have a diesel 1.9 4x4. I let my battery go flat. Everything was dead. I opened the driver's door with the key, no problem, then lifted the bonnet. I connected spare battery with jump leads. Alarm sounded. Silenced it by turning on ignition. Started car, no problem. ESP (anti skid) and power steering lights came up. I disconnected jump leads and ran engine for ten minutes at fast idle. Switched off and restarted, no problem. ESP and power steering lights stayed on. Drove a few yards and ESP and power steering lights went off. All seemed okay. THEN, later in the day, I realised other things had failed. I can't open the rear offside door at all, either from keyfob remote or from inside. The central locking button on the centre console is dead. The keyfob won't unlock or lock the driver's door, only the nearside doors and boot. Also, driver's side windows don't open. Nearside windows open with their own controls, but not the 'master' controls on the driver's door. When I start the engine there is a 'clunk' from the nearside and boot locks, but I haven't yet worked out if they are unlocking or locking themselves or just making a 'clunk' noise. AND... mirror adjuster / heater controls on driver's door won't operate either mirror. AND... rear-facing red 'door-open' warning light on driver's door doesn't light up. In short, the offside doors are electrically dead. Any ideas? TT