ickleginge
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Posts posted by ickleginge
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I have a Seat PD160 air intake for sale, consisting of both parts, in very good condition.
£70 Posted.
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I would say your main difference with the old simple number of circuits is that the current regs require rcbo's on each circuit. This means you really would want more circuits, so that in the event of an rcbo going off, you don't lose all your power at once. I.e. light's upstairs separate from downstairs.
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Rocker gasket oil leaks along with Vacuum Pump oil leaks on the top right hand end of the engine, as your looking with the bonnet open.
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Er, DO NOT use a pressure bleeder above 15PSI, or you'll pump air into the ABS block, after which you need to bleed the system using VCDS to get that air out again. Actually, that might explain your issue.
I'm currently experiencing my own brake troubles at the moment, and so went back to the workshop manual...just for a bit of reference.
Here's a quote that may help?
"WARNINGOn vehicles with ABS/EDL/TCS or ABS/EDL/TCS/ESP BOSCH 5.7 or ABS/TCS/ESP BOSCH 8.0 a filling pressure of at least 0.2 MPa (2 bar) must be maintained when filling with brake fluid using brake filling and bleeding device. If the filling pressure of 0.2 MPa (2 bar) is not reached, proper bleeding of the hydraulic unit is no longer assured. Distinction between ABS, ABS/EDL/TCS and ABS/EDL/TCS/ESP BOSCH 5.7 as well as ABS, ABS/TCS and ABS/TCS/ESP BOSCH 8.0"
That's 29 psi...ish
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Ok thanks. I take it from there you can add an oil temp guage if needed?
Yes ideally the most simple, reasonably accurate placement for a temperature sensor is in the sandwhich plate.
You're next easiest install location would be a sump plug mounted sensor such as a "NewSouth Performance PlugPort". Temperature readings would be a bit more general, rather than accurate from low down in the sump.
Your hottest oil temperature should be that exiting the turbo.
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This might be of interest with regards to my mentioning of getting LFB enabled with your map...
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The take off which routes engine oil to a cooler (radiator) is called a sandwhich plate. Sandwhich plates can come with or without a thermostat.
LFB = left foot braking.
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Oil cooler a definite yes, also make sure it's thermostatically controlled.
Ever considered geting LFB enabled in the map, so you can load the diff up?
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SDI on a How Fast day, that's so last year... :p
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The Sachs OEM is rumoured to be rated at or around 300 ft.lb.
Driving style really dictates the life of a DMF in my eyes. Obviously the delivery (i.e. a smooth map and / or torque limiting), tied with driving style will equal a DMF's life span.
As mentioned, I also know of many folks who run more than 300 ft.lb on a DMF with no problem.
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Some good replies. Thanks for pointing out my tosh statement "coskev".
I won't be leaving my metal impeller pump on forever, but I will be changing it every other cam belt. This suits me due to the high mileage I cover in such a short time.
The point I'm trying to make it that it's a pump. Whether it be a metal or plastic impeller really makes little odds if you regularly maintain your engine, so reducing the likely hood of a failure.
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Get a gates kit (VAG put gates kits in VAG boxes and sell them as genuine parts).
Probably 100% true.
Ask yourself under what circumstances would a pump impeller snap?
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I'm thinking this thread should begin with a XXX warning for pornographic mechanical imagery! Keep it up and we all may go blind? :yes:
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Most sensible option would be a genuine belt / pulley kit (£100 ish), then go to a motor factor and get a deal on a metal impeller pump (£40 ish). Then never worry about changing the pump again...
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devonutopia = Rock Solid Gentleman.
Bought said vRs skirt, helped out with packaging cost and arranged own courier.
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GFWC = Big One! (Sausage)
Arranged to pick up rear vRs skirt, then didn't show. Messaged him the next day, he implied he was coming, then text and didn't show.
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I wouldn't bother.
Wait till you have a problem, don't create one.
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That's a pretty handy ranking for the sole vRs.
I see there's a couple of Datsun Micra's in there...any chance they are running more wild than the old "challenge" spec engines?
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I was just a bit miffed when I was looking at a Yeti 170, that when new was £20K plus, but didn't have dampened handles.
Honestly it's just me...I can't help it, I fitted them in my vRs and the SDI.
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A fair point, I just like Skoda for the very fact that your getting VAG engineering to some degree whether it be old or new technology. I thought that's why we all like Skoda, for the function at a not so heavily branded cost?
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Surely a Superb?
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The "classic" quality test is if the interior grab handles have dampening. :p
I was surprised to get in a mk1 Yeti 170 a few weeks ago, to find that it hadn't got dampening!?
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Ah okay, sounds like a viable option for folks other than the three figures cost of an ARP bolt set.
I'm not as handy as yourself with working on a gearbox, so I went for the bombproof option. Although it's more than likely that something else in the gearbox will break first.
SOLD *Please Remove*
in Parts For Sale
Posted
For sale a mk1 Fabia vRs steering wheel removed from a 2006 car, in very good condition...plus a clean and tidy, but lightly marked (scratched badge) airbag removed from a mk1 Octavia vRs of unknown year.
£60£55 Posted.Collection also possible from Kent, please PM.