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petrolbloke

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Posts posted by petrolbloke

  1. Don't think I've seen them in DIY type places. You could replace it with a jubilee clip (careful not to over-tighten!).

     

    If you want to replace it with one of the same type then you could try looking for similar cars being broken for spares on eBay/Facebook etc or the wanted section. Failing that I expect dealers will still be able to get them.

  2. 84k, barely run in!

     

    As above there's nothing major there. The things in the minor defects section are easily DIYable - there are threads on here about replacing rear numberplate lights and YouTube videos about replacing track rod ends. The rod ends themselves are cheap (I just bought a pair from GSF for ~£24) but the tracking should be checked & adjusted after. If the track rod ends have never been changed or your tracking hasn't been adjusted in the last few years they could be a bit seized on though.

     

    The top mount ("Front Upper Macpherson strut pin or bush") is cheap parts-wise but a bit more labour intensive than the track rod ends and the tracking should also be checked/adjusted after doing that.

  3. What's the mileage and what's the list of issues from the MOT? Did it fail or is it just advisories?

     

    It looks tidy enough to be worth saving from that photo.

     

    I've been close to replacing mine a few times (including very recently) but I just can't seem to do it! It's difficult to replace it with something as practical, quick and cheap to run.

  4. On 16/09/2020 at 13:28, ABvRS said:

    Picking up this trail from years ago as am interested on latest thinking.

    I have a 2001 MK1 vrs, genuine 74500 mileage (I know as I've had it from new). Everyone says excellent condition, regularly serviced, belt changed and wheels refurbished last year. 

    Any thoughts on potential for it to appreciate in value in the future?

    OH and I both still love it, it's a go-cart drive compared to the 2015 version we also own but I'm starting to think it's costing us a lot in tax etc for nostalgia

    Thoughts?

     

    Well I don't think you'll lose any money on it. Some other cars like Clio 172/182s and Civic Type Rs have been going up in value the last couple of years. I don't think the market for the mk1 VRS is a strong as it is for those, but I wouldn't bet against good ones going up in value a bit.

     

    Edit: Let me know if you decide to sell it ;)

  5. 6 minutes ago, Urrell said:

    If an advisory on the MOT it's something that is not going to get better and must be near to a fail.
    Perhaps it could be saved if some form of protective coating could be applied.

     

    Not necessarily - MOT testers do have discretion on these things and the MOT tester might just be covering their arse. OTOH the car could have spent a lot of time near the coast and have more corrosion than is normal.

  6. On 30/03/2020 at 21:17, Carlston said:

     

    Not sure that's a pair - the title says "1Pz".

     

    There have been threads on this subject before and I thought the previous conclusion was that there weren't any lower range (B4) Bilsteins available. Maybe LCR/S3/TT/R32 fitment ones are the same/close enough though?

  7. 9 hours ago, Ttaskmaster said:

    Is there any kind of adapter that will facilitate a USB flash drive or an SD card?

    Not really. You'd need something to read the USB drive/SD card, do the decoding and then output the analogue signal (i.e. an mp3 player, phone etc.) so you would need power as well.

     

    Fitting an aftermarket head unit is quite an easy DIY job and is easy enough to swap back if/when you sell the car. Used ones can be picked up quite cheap. There are plenty out there with a green (or changeable) backlight so they don't look that out of place.

  8. Depending what you paid for it and what faults were present when you inspected it before you bought it you might have some recourse with the dealer under your consumer rights. (warranties are in addition to your consumer rights)

     

    Sounds like the two problems are not linked, but I would fix the temperature issue first, clear the fault code(s) and then see if they come back.

     

    Thermostat is a common issue on cars this old. I fitted a Gates one 5 years ago and it's been fine. As for the CTS, make sure it's a genuine one that was fitted and if not I'd recommend replacing it with a genuine one for peace of mind.

    • Like 1
  9. 3 hours ago, andy187781 said:

    engine  Temps are about 80c but never really much higher

     

    What's the time/distance of your journey? The temperature gauge should get up to the middle (90) and stay there. If it doesn't then it could be a faulty thermostat and/or temperature sensor.

     

    Also check for sticking brakes, that will affect fuel economy!

  10. Shame you binned the original - I bought one from a dealer (in 2012 I think) and it was definitely sub £100 on an exchange basis.

     

    Might be worth seeing how much it is without one to exchange. Also remember that ECP/CP4L/GSF nearly always have a sale on, rather like DFS, Oak Furniture Land etc.

    • Thanks 1
  11. I was rear ended and my car was written off in 2014, I kept the car (for 10% of its valuation) and had it repaired using second hand parts. I looked at replacing it but I'm glad I kept it.

     

    Depending how bad the damage is it might be worth repairing if the chassis is OK and you can source second hand parts.

     

    Whether it's repairable or not it's probably worth keeping the car if you can store it off the road - you should easily get more selling it as spares/repair than it'll cost you to keep it. You'll get even more back if you have the space & time to break it yourself.

     

    Where is the car now? Have you still got the V5?

  12. How much is it losing how quickly?

     

    Mine had a coolant leak last year which turned out to be from the coolant temperature sensor housing. It was quite a slow leak though - no visible steam and I missed it when looking from the top of the engine.

     

    Have you looked around the engine, radiator and underneath to see if you can tell where the leak is? It might be obvious without needing to do a pressure test.

    • Like 1
  13. You only need to fix the defective side to pass the MOT, but it is recommended to replace both sides where shocks and springs are concerned for optimum handling and to save doing the alignment twice in close succession. The spring on the other side could last another 2 days or 2+ years.

     

    What size tyre do you need? Have a look in the tyres section for recommendations. In general I would recommend replacing tyres in axle pairs.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
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