YellowVrsToo

I have moved from Padworth, near Reading, to Kiveton Park Station, between Sheffield and Worksop.

Thanks for your help guys. Found it - almost, but not quite, inaccessible - on the front of the DPF (?) behind the oil filler tube. Changed it and no more flashing coil! Engine fault light still on, but I guess that will go away in time. If not I'll get the VCDS out again!

Sorry must have misunderstood, my bad.

Er - thanks AMD87 but it's a diesel.

EGT Sensor #3 has failed on my 2010 Octavia II VRS Diesel. VCDS reports "Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor; B1 S3 P242A - 000 - Malfunction" and I get the flashing coil and "Engine fault- Workshop". Despite lots of searching (including BriSkoda) I'm having trouble finding out where it is. Can someone help, please?

I went to the same people for a driver's door lock mechanism; usual problem, microswitch only worked when it felt like it. Straight swap, fitted perfectly (I'm getting used to taking the door apart) and no problems since. Thanks for the link.

Tailgate lock micro-switch working perfectly, have continuity from it to the connectors on the left hand side (under the CD player) but no 'tailgate open' indication and the luggage compartment lights don't come on. So I assume the must be a break in the wiring or a bad connection somewhere else. Any ideas, anyone? I've just replaced the tailgate (someone hit it and drove off - grrr) and everything else works - central locking, key, etc. - so this is the last little thing to get working. It didn't work with the old tailgate either, but I assumed it was the lock micro-switch, as mentioned earlier. However, both lock micro-switches (of radically different designs) seem to be perfectly serviceable. Help!

We've had a 2003 1.9 TDI L&K estate since new, and it has now done > 155,000 miles. It's been a superb car and still gets used regularly, although it is no longer anybody's main vehicle. It's our family's spare car, which gets used when other cars are being serviced, or you can't get the thing you want to carry into your beetle, or you want to take the family and the dog somewhere. It's had its moments (the most challenging was when the turbo gave up the ghost at about 140,000 miles) but by and large it's been very reliable. The air conditioning is still the best and most reliable of all our cars. Go for it and enjoy cheap and reliable motoring. If the driver's floor gets wet, check that the cover over the pedal mechanism is watertight and that the area around it isn't choked with leaves. And if it has a sunroof (ours has) check that the drains aren't blocked. They come out in the A pillar, by the door hinge. We just don't seem to be able to part with it ...

Yes, that's the trouble with the plastic ones, they need replacing every 150,000 miles

As you suspected, mac11irl, it's the drop link - snapped in half! I suppose "Anti-roll bar linkage insecure" is a reasonable description, if you count "totally detached on one side" as insecure! Very strange, neither I nor my wife noticed anything odd about the handling. But it's always been a very "wallowy" ride, even when new, so perhaps that's why we didn't notice. The other failure (suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn) has got me stumped - I haven't yet found anything wrong. So I think I'm going to replace the drop link and then take the car back to the tester and get him to point out the bit that needs replacing. Thank you everyone for your help so far.

Any recommendations about where to get the correct parts?

My Octavia 1.9TDI L&K estate has failed the MoT with a u/s front anti-roll bar bush. I propose to do the job myself and would welcome some advice. I found a post from 2010 on here but the photos are not available. Anything special to look out for?

An update one year on: I didn’t need to strip the door in the end. I opened the door one day and the light came on, much to my surprise as it hadn’t been working for ages. I opened and closed the door a few times just to be sure I wasn’t seeing things and then it stopped working again. I sprayed the area with WD40 (it helped knowing where the micro switch was after reading this thread - thanks!) and to date it hasn’t failed again. Now I have to fix the tailgate switch, same problem?

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm taking the door apart, then!