Ads230

Hi @roadarman - are you sure it doesn't have an electronic LSD? I too have a VRS230 (2016) and mine does have one - for which I did get the oil changed 2yrs / 16k miles ago. The 230 back in the day was still the 'premium' model, before the facelifted 245 (which also got the eLSD by default). Despite the build specs coming from Skoda, I don't always trust what they include / exclude as 'important'. Like the fact all 230s were meant to get black spoilers etc. 😅. Either way, the non-dealer tuning garage I use (QS Tuning) also recommend changing per 3 years where possible, so worthwhile doing.

Likewise, keen to hear how people get on with this change. I'm on ~78k miles atm, looking to do in the next year or so, though experiencing no issues with it as yet (*touches wood 🪵). One thing I'm interested in doing next time I get it serviced is perhaps some poly inserts into the linkage (not short-shift), improving the feel. It's still fairly slick for a 9.5yr old car, but always chasing the niceties 😉

I've never seen hardware available for this before (which makes the AI / 'child's hand' image a little more suspect 😅) but I'm sure there is something out there which can fit the bill, even if it's niche. Will follow this thread to see if you get any luck, though for now I'm just using a Anker 320 dual USB charger in the 12V port on centre console.

+1 on 'normal'. I switched to VBT discs after the the rim on both front and rear brakes got too much, but that was after 5+ years' daily use.

Welcome back 😉 - seen your H&R lowering comment, but only gone Eibach Sport (30mm drop) years ago so sadly can't contribute to advice - am sure someone will pick it up for you though.

I, myself, hate almost everything about the less-than-optimal way these 'aids' supposedly assist drivers. Not least their clunky implementation (across not just the Euro/VAG marques, others too), their common errors in the real world (i.e., sign recognition - and now the 'mandatory' speed bonging), but also the tangible laziness that it's promoting in most of the driver-drones out on the roads today. Same as @Gammyleg , I switch everything off as soon as I get into a new vehicle for the very reason it's weakening my control of the car. That said, you may be the first person I've ever heard state this opinion 😅 (and I commend you for it, btw! 👍) - each to their own etc. Does the adapted data set make a significant difference, then?

@zebthecat - shot in the dark as it's a little way from you, but I highly recommend QS Tuning in Haywards Heath that I use for all my RS needs. Kim (he/him) there is awesome, and will definitely provide good information around what they may be able to do to support you in a rebuild, or - if not - I'm sure he will be able to recommend good companies or people who can help you with it. QST are long-term VAG specialists and part of the larger custom / engineering network, so I'm sure they know of a few people if they can't do it themselves. Best of luck with it too! 🤞

Morning 🫡 - presuming that the replacement project went alright, @BluevRS245? I'm also investigating replacing the boot struts for my 2016 230 hatch. I already did the gas bonnet strut update years ago, and used Febi Bilstein equivalents (unless OEM is also the same...?) which worked brilliantly. Anyone aware of part numbers - or Febi B equivalents - for the boot struts for the 2016 hatch? 👍 Not sure if the 2020 model is the same as 2016, though likely might be...

As another option (since I have similar setup to OP), I got Ferodo DS2500 pads and VBT Grooved Discs (though forget the exact diameter - but whatever OEM pre-FL VRS 230s had 👍), both front & rear, with braided lines fitted whilst they were at it. Tangible improvement to braking, and slight reduction in brake dust too - which was a welcome surprise. Highly recommend!

Tends to increase Noise, Vibration & Harshness (NVH) very slightly, but it's pretty minimal and would get used to it pretty quickly. As it's the lower engine mount, you'd feel very slightly more vibration through your feet within front seats - doubt anything in the back, and minimal increase in noise. It's also totally replaceable, so if you don't get on with it, you can fit the old one back in (with a brand new bolt).

Absolutely +1 on this, even by stock standards, the original setup tramps considerably 😬😬😬. For the sake of variety, I went with the offering from 034 Motorsport of Upper & Lower (make sure you check which factory version of lower mount you have before ordering - versions 1 or 2).

Might be missing something but her Mk3 is a TDI - is your Mk2 also a TDI, or is it a TSI? As a Mk3 VRS 230 (TSI) owner, not entirely familiar with the rollin' coal exhaust setups 😊 - but looks like the Miltek product above bypasses both rear silencers (assuming Mk3 TDI has them?), and adds an outlet to the right hand rear (fake) exhaust pipe. If it does bypass the rear silencers, I'd guess there'd be some increased noise (though obv resonated through middle silencer). Might be worthwhile just giving Miltek a call to see what they say - I've always found both them and Scorpion to give great advice over email or phone 👍

Slight revival of this post 12 months' on 🗓️ - had a new Sachs organic clutch fitted last week at local garage QST, and thanks kindly @roaddetective for highlighting the requirement for replacing seals, as it was the first thing I asked about. Reassuringly, they sort those out by default as part of the service (due to their experience of the same thing that has happened with other vehicles, and especially on this thread). However, I've referenced this thread itself as to 'why I asked', and if there is an issue with it in future that I'd refer to this 😅. I also had my water pump replaced at wondrous expense... Running in clutch for first 100ish miles has been issue-free (thus far). Standard effects felt re: heavier pedal, slight vibration on slow-speed manoeuvres, quicker engagement. Am looking forward to proper use post-350+ miles, though fingers crossed I don't have a similar issue as above 🤞

Definitely a weapon - if you're doing all of this (and you might have not noted it here), I'd highly recommend sorting out the lower engine mount with a billet steel or high-rated poly dogbone version to eliminate the horrible axle tramp you get with increasing power. Transformed the drive & gear changes on my 230 immediately.

Yeah, I didn't realise either until I spent a bit of time researching this morning. I'm more confident in the Darkside version, since it's a component add-on to the already alloy piece itself. To expand on my water pump issue, I've had absolutely minimal leakage over the last 2 months since diagnosis & have had zero overheating instances before - my presumption is that it's a preventative measure before the leak gets too bad and fries the PCB as you mentioned. But yes, could be parts failure or just wear & tear. I might discuss the above points with QST, and keep in touch during the day(s) it's in the garage with some hypothetical IF > THEN parts & costs to ensure it's covered off as best as possible. Either way, happy to be a guinea pig for the 'upgrades' and give feedback if/when fitted 👍