surprising_skod
-
Posts
306 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by surprising_skod
-
-
Nice first car. I loved my Felicia - I miss it to this day. No abs and wet tyres in the wet and the snow can be fun, but be aware you have to stop the car
If you're after lows I'd just stick with springs as no off the shelf coilies are easily found for these, or you could get some made pretty cheaply. www.coilsprings.co.uk This company quoted me £200 to drop my Iggy by 50mm - I'd not go much lower than that on unmodified shocks, but they can probably be done pretty easily (Depending on the type of shock).Do NOT use this company to make anything for you.
My favorit suspension, custom made, was completely botched. Out several hundred pounds for suspension that does not do anything that I asked of them, and extremely hard to contact once they had my money. Absolutely avoid at all costs, one of the worst experiences I have ever had in the car world, and I'm in the trade...
-
Due to my working hours I cannot easily get to the Skoda dealers so tend to use online retailers for parts. After a bad experirnce with Jorily can anyone recommend any online retailers for basic servicing items (filters pads etc)?
what was the bad experience? Can't have been that bad I'm sure - Jorily has always managed to resolve issues to everyones satisfaction that I'm aware of
If it was postage I'd hardly think that was a bad thing. Twice recently Jorily has done next day delivery for me on urgently needed items, still stayed cheaper than anywhere else and been very good about it really. Servicing items seem to always be in good stock and I can't think of a single time I've not had a prompt delivery on them, nor any of the other Skoda people I know??
-
do it now. I'll sell you a stripped down rapid shell to do it and all, and then I can buy one that already has an engine and save myself lots of hassle
-
Not sure about that lol, funnily enough it is orange though
you'll get it sold alll right then! You'll take the total of on-the-road orange estelles with vinyl roofs to a total of approx... TWO
-
I imagine the SOCGB to be akin to train spotters, talking in that really nasally voice?
I cant do nasal, I have a broad Ulster accent and y'know, the reason I'm in the SOC and get on with the other members I've met is because as long as the car is OTR and not being abused/scrapped/left for dead, it's all good. Even the ones used for trialling are cool!
-
did about 40 miles in 30 minutes, and I stopped for petrol and again for a phonecall. Faster than the speed of sound, mine is.
-
We're working on it !!
working on keeping it in the country too I hope?
I really, really hope it gets saved. I'd suggest checking with one of three people to post in this thread, namely DaveRapid, Skofast or Skudman. between them they will know pretty much every genuine restoring-minded Skoda fan in England or CZ, where the likely potential buyers live. That way you can ensure it isn't stripped of bits and scrapped. There are just a handful of them left; adding another one is a big smile moment for a few of us
^see?
-
Skoda did different add on "packs" e.g. my dad got the flairline which included wheel trims, stereo and rev counter on top of standard LXiE. There were Silverline, Blackline and CD (came with CD player - not bad for 1995!) editions
flairline came with alloys...
-
Im considering getting the 1.3 petrol if I do end up scrapping this, from what Ive heard those are a bit nippier, and hopefully the gearbox is a bit more resillient?
it's the same 'box :rotz:
and they are very tough boxes. properly tough. no matter what anyone thinks - either they aren't treating the car right or they've only had a broken one!
your engine wont be at fault. Misaligned shafts had come to my mind but to be honest that would be pretty hard to do. If you suspected that, the most likely cause would be accident damage, so I would be inspecting the inner wings looking for accident damage on a front corner.
and a good mount will help no end. once fully sorted, you can expect wonderfully peaceful boxes. it is a modern car, with modern noise tolerances. i.e. quiet. Even my favorit mk1 box was pretty quiet after I snapped the selector ...
-
you will need to replace the head gasket but I would think that if you haven't had any problems driving it until these two times, the head will be ok. and that is an easy job and will cost about 35 euro to do, or 150 euro in a garage.
-
well, i'm glad you're keeping that and putting it into good order! I'd be compulsively forced to get it if offered lol.
from what you're describing it does sound just like a totally standard 136 sport. which is wonderful, as many were robbed of their tuning parts and the bodykits, and the last ten years haven't been kind to the numbers due to rust pockets and high scrap prices!
Nevertheless I'd possibly be interested in the offside front type wheels - got the centre caps too?
-
pic of engine as said, location, price, time frame when it has to be collected by.
not a hard car to find interest for!
-
in a 95 felicia, not even a problem!
are they the same part? no.
will they fit perfectly? yes.
-
You would need to know your mobile number before you could start texting though!
-
get the code off the side of the ecu. they're plug and play on felicias.
-
-
been down once. you know its just a row of cars in a shopping centre carpark, right?
-
what adrian said ^^
-
I dont think a 130 will need lead substitute. Either way, if you can find a good 136 its a definite step up from a 130, and its bound to be at least a few kgs lighter due to the alloy head.
it does really need lead substitute but you can get away without it. the older ones and the smaller ones Definitely do need it though. the extra porting on the 136 head means its much more keen to perform.
and as you said, the 135 was the FI and the 136 carbed.
the 136 rapid should be listed at 68hp, and the 130 at about 61/62
the 120 was about 58 and the 105, 54hp.
they weigh a bit less than 900, more about 850 with fluids i think it was.
on a standard Jikov carb, 40mpg should be the norm. If it works.
On an aftermarket, expect a max of 35 and if you're really, really stupid like me, figures in the teens
-
Having now looked at some Sonnet pictures (and the alcohol has worn off!!!) I agree, its not a Sonnet. I reckon its an Estelle underneath all that sexy bodywork (or maybe an S series) by the wheel angles (and type).
Do you know? Does anyone?!
Covskoda got the answer for you
although as far as i was aware it was a 1970 car but then again, nobody seems to be that sure! -
So can i reuse my original fuel and exhaust manifolds? and just fit them on an 1,3 felicia engine? ive got an 1,2 originally
the 1.3 is an 8-port head, and the 1.2 is a 5-port head, so this is why you need ones from a 136 rapid engine so that they sit at the correct angle otherwise your fuel and exhaust will not flow right.
-
shucks!, my bad... guess i was just cranky because of my period, jajajaja (the punch line i'm a guy lol) editing previous post to correct that
i guess that shirk i went to to deal with my past alienation problems rip me off, lol but all's good.
oh and by the way, the firing order you mention was the same on my 86' VW Golf GL and i check my engine again (when i took the picture) and it read (on the block) 1 4 2 3 and it maches the order in the dizzy cables (clockwise) could the 135, 136, and the VW engined Skoda have that discrepancy ? or does the numers in the block mean something else ?? (i'm a bit confused) :confused:
and while i'm at it, my humble apology for reading the thread wrong
I didn't even see it, so no worries man
We cool.Yeah, I wrote the order down wrong, but I've fixed it now. But the VW and the Skoda engine wont be the same... the felicia never had a VW 1.3 engine, its a Skoda designed engine
-
and the earth point for the ecu is on the inner wing(right hand side as you face the car) on a felicia, under the strut brace
The 4 10mm nuts on the top of the box are also main loom earths, and without these being totally clean and grounded, the car will not run nor even attempt to run. The brown earth wire is not a common fail point.
you will need a 10mm spanner to take it off.
8mm on some models, dependant on year. Socket and extension recommended - spanner much too awkward
(also: apologies to all for the furore caused by my mis-type re: firing order. I'll think of a good excuse for it later
) -
washer pumps are a good one, as they fail sometimes.
the box is the same one, but with an adapter plate. someones looking that adapter plate on some forum i'm on, cant remember which one though...
If you're after lows I'd just stick with springs as no off the shelf coilies are easily found for these, or you could get some made pretty cheaply. www.coilsprings.co.uk This company quoted me £200 to drop my Iggy by 50mm - I'd not go much lower than that on unmodified shocks, but they can probably be done pretty easily (Depending on the type of shock).
TERKINS E36 328
in Non-Skoda Projects
Posted
M20 flywheel and starter are the way to go. Much cheaper than having an M50 dual mass machined down. I expect you have but hopefully you've got the throttle body with your 325 inlet otherwise it's useless. You'll also want to look at your PCV pipes when you're in there as they can suck a lot of low end out of it.