WIG

Along with the fault code it should give a short description of the fault and point you in the right direction. I have a generic foxwell aswell as VCDS, but it is for everyday garage use and tells me as much as VCDS but you just don't have the extra coding etc etc that VCDS provides. I am pretty sure MK3 fabs don't have side airbags of their own, maybe one in the 'B' pilar for all occupants, but never having owned one and never having any call to investigate one on a customers' car I can't say for sure, but it is very rare to develop a wiring fault on a rear seat anyway. In my experience it is always the front seats with the gap underneath, sometimes it's dirt, someitmes because someone has shoved something under there and snagged a wire or it's a seat that has been moved and the wiring didn't like it!! 😁

Hi Italiano, and welcome to the forum! It shouldn't be too different to a MK2 octi, so if you have VCDS you would know what seat is at fault because it tells you that and also what air bag is at fault. If it is the side airbag igniter then it will be a front seat wiring issue as I don't think the mk3 fabia's have rear side airbags on a 20009, could be wrong, but either way a simple diagnostic test will tell you which seat it is. If you go to the side seat (front) that has the issue and raise it if possible to expose as much as possible under the seat then look for the YELLOW connector plug, once you have found this try first just unplugging it with the ignition switched OFF the just check for any dirt / debris that may be in there and give it a blow out and reconnect it, then turn the ignition back on again, if it's a simple bit of crap in a connector then the light will go out and not come back on again, which in alot of cases it is simply that, if it comes back on then there will be a wiring issue. For this you will need to inspect the wiring closer and sometimes it's quite aparrent what the cause is, other times you may need to cut and join wires together cutting out the plug and socket, but that's a last resort. I hope some of this makes a bit of sense to you. I must add, that in the absence of a diagnostic computer such as VCDS the light will still go out without deleting codes, but the codes will still be stored in the ECU until they are cleared using such a computer. Fingers crossed it's a simple fix for you, it was for me and every day at work it's the first thing I do, unplug it, clean it, reconnect it, most of the time it's job done!

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Hi bud, I have a towbar fitted to mine with an switched live for the battery charging on the 'van, so I tapped into that as it is only live when the engine is running as I don't have a remote lead from the HU. When I get round to it I will be going direct from the battery with a digital voltage switch and dedicated heavy gauge wire as the amp don't like it at higher volumes and cuts out - looks like the power supply isn't as good as I thought, to be fair it is only to provide a trickle charge to a leisure battery, but for what I use it for it's ok for the time being. I would always recommend going straight from the battery with a good fuse and appropriate gauge cable for your amp. Hope that answers your question mate!

Hi all, Just wanted to share with you my fix to the well talked about superb lack of bass from the stock speakers, I hope this helps some folk. I didn't want anything massive to take up boot space and I also didn't want a big banging sub that will rattle teeth, but it can if you do it right! All I was after was something that tucked away nicely and didn't hinder the use of my car but gave a bit more bass to the lacking stock speakers, I also didn't want to spend loads of money, so I opted for this set up, it looks nice and tidy and it sounds amazing, not boy racer bass but you can have it like that if you want to play with the settings and fit a bigger amp and woofer, but this is fine for me, more than enough to be honest! I used a Juice 900 watt amplifier with a Juice 1200 watt subwoofer, both bought from Car audio centre for just over £100, the amp was bridgeable as I only want to fit one speaker, this way it gets the sound from the left and right audio supply. I had to remove both rear seat airbags (bolsters) and all the trim in the boot, both sides as I wanted to tap in to the rear speaker wires before they entered the door, all the trim and luggage rails had to come out and I managed to find a 'engine running' live from the caravan electrics, but I will be upgrading that to it's own ignition live when I get chance and a better gauge wire! The earth I picked up on the offside of the boot, as pictured, seems to be OK, but again I will be upgrading that to the better gauge wire as I get it. I tapped into both sides speaker wires and soldered good joints with heat shrink, as I only want to do this once. I then had to fit an LOC (Line Out Converter) because the Columbus unit does have a line out but it's a bit of a faff to get sound from that to the boot, so I opted for the easier route, the LOC gives the same effect anyway. I have located the custom made subwoofer box from a company called 'Basser' who are based in Poland, they sell these on Ebay UK too at a cost of £97, in the left hand side of the boot, I have lost the small compartment that this takes up, but I never use it anyway, the amp an LOC are located in the right hand side compartment, again not used for much, but it's all nice and tucked out of the way. Finally, I installed the sub with some sound damping material and put a cover over it to protect it from whatever I have in the boot from damaging it. There were a lot more steps to this fit, but I have kept it short, but if you want more information just ask. I hope this helps someone as I have read lots of other posts on here and no-one has really come up with the solution that I was after, and I am sure I am not the only one who wants nice sound but without losing the useable space in the boot! It sounds amazing, the difference is noticable even at low levels, I listen to all sorts of music, from Rock, Punk etc. to Reggae and Ska, the 80's and Country, and some wierd stuff for the nipper, and it all sounds... well..... Superb!!! More information can be provided to those who want it, including model numbers for the equipment I bought and the colours of wires they are looking for when searching for sound in the vehicle and other wiring! Thanks for reading folks!