WIG

Along with the fault code it should give a short description of the fault and point you in the right direction. I have a generic foxwell aswell as VCDS, but it is for everyday garage use and tells me as much as VCDS but you just don't have the extra coding etc etc that VCDS provides. I am pretty sure MK3 fabs don't have side airbags of their own, maybe one in the 'B' pilar for all occupants, but never having owned one and never having any call to investigate one on a customers' car I can't say for sure, but it is very rare to develop a wiring fault on a rear seat anyway. In my experience it is always the front seats with the gap underneath, sometimes it's dirt, someitmes because someone has shoved something under there and snagged a wire or it's a seat that has been moved and the wiring didn't like it!! 😁

Hi Italiano, and welcome to the forum! It shouldn't be too different to a MK2 octi, so if you have VCDS you would know what seat is at fault because it tells you that and also what air bag is at fault. If it is the side airbag igniter then it will be a front seat wiring issue as I don't think the mk3 fabia's have rear side airbags on a 20009, could be wrong, but either way a simple diagnostic test will tell you which seat it is. If you go to the side seat (front) that has the issue and raise it if possible to expose as much as possible under the seat then look for the YELLOW connector plug, once you have found this try first just unplugging it with the ignition switched OFF the just check for any dirt / debris that may be in there and give it a blow out and reconnect it, then turn the ignition back on again, if it's a simple bit of crap in a connector then the light will go out and not come back on again, which in alot of cases it is simply that, if it comes back on then there will be a wiring issue. For this you will need to inspect the wiring closer and sometimes it's quite aparrent what the cause is, other times you may need to cut and join wires together cutting out the plug and socket, but that's a last resort. I hope some of this makes a bit of sense to you. I must add, that in the absence of a diagnostic computer such as VCDS the light will still go out without deleting codes, but the codes will still be stored in the ECU until they are cleared using such a computer. Fingers crossed it's a simple fix for you, it was for me and every day at work it's the first thing I do, unplug it, clean it, reconnect it, most of the time it's job done!

View Advert 17" Audi Sport alloys I have a set of 4 of these, see the pics, they were on my 2004 Audi A3 but when I lowered my Octi 2 I put them on that. Since I got rid of the audi and put the octi back to stock to sell, I no longer need these and are just taking up space that I need. They are lovely and true with only usual kerb marks on the outer rim from a previous owner, not many weights (if any) were needed to perfectly balance them. I have a set of 4 Skoda centre caps if the buyer wants them aswell. The wheels are in postcode WS8, collection preferred, hence collection only status, but I am willing to deliver locally free of charge or a if it's a bit further afield maybe a small fuel charge. We can discuss this! Priced to sell but will not give them away. Advertiser WIG Date 10/08/21 Price £60 Category Wheels & Tyres Wheel Size R17 Tyre Season Other Shipping Estimate £0  

Hi bud, I have a towbar fitted to mine with an switched live for the battery charging on the 'van, so I tapped into that as it is only live when the engine is running as I don't have a remote lead from the HU. When I get round to it I will be going direct from the battery with a digital voltage switch and dedicated heavy gauge wire as the amp don't like it at higher volumes and cuts out - looks like the power supply isn't as good as I thought, to be fair it is only to provide a trickle charge to a leisure battery, but for what I use it for it's ok for the time being. I would always recommend going straight from the battery with a good fuse and appropriate gauge cable for your amp. Hope that answers your question mate!

Just messaged you Rustynuts!

I have looked at free downloads for firmware and maps but I don't really trust the dodgy looking websites to be honest. When I found the website I mentioned previously it seemed true enough and quite professional, hopefully I won't be a victim, but I ain't one to let things go if things go wrong with such an item, so I will be on my guard and use my credit cards' protection services if required! If it does all go wrong and it bricks my unit, can it be rectified using my VCDS? Thanks again Rustynuts! 👍

It says I am 'off road' on many roads that I know have been changed in the last few years and some that I have not been down before but I can see they are more recent than 2011 as the 'new road layout' signs are still up! So I don't think that the GPS antenna is at fault, it reads all other roads perfectly, I am pretty confident that it is just the maps that are out of date, you can see the original roads close by to where the icon of your location is on the map. I notice it around Nottingham where there have been major works for the last few years, it has changed loads but still shows me driving through fields!! I guess you have had dealings with this particular sellers items before, by your comment 'fixing them for him...'. Would you recommend that I buy elsewhere before I try them? If so, where from mate? Or, if it does brick my unit, can it be sorted using genuine VCDS? Cheers for your input Rustynuts!

I own a 2011 S2 with a columbus unit and feel I need a firmware update aswell as a map update, it is really slow to boot up and the maps are way out of date, tells me I am 'off road' most of the time when travelling around the UK. I have just ordered a firmware update and also V17 maps from www.satnavmapupdate.co.uk Hopefully they will be OK and not brick my unit, I will report back when I get then and have done the deed! They were £24.99 each but with a 25% discount when 2 discs were bought at the same time I thought I'd give it a go! £37 for both, if it works I'll be well happy, if not, well.....let's see!

I have ordered some and my S2 looks to be the same colour as yours, they look great! Much nicer I agree!!! Cheers for the pics.

yes, I wouldn't trust it, just do what you can to get your cash back! Let us know the outcome.

I would first say to you to contact the dealer and tell them that you are not willing to wait for that car to be put right, I assume they are going to swallow the cost of this, and that you would like a refund as you have lost confidence in the car. They could offer you a replacement vehicle, but you won;t have to accept that. Failing this, I would point you in the direction of trading standards and see what they have to say. You should have a good chance of the dealer giving you a full refund though if you mention that you will be taking things further and that you are not happy. Keep a log of what is said between you, what offer's are made to you and well... everything, keep emails where available from them and your replies, it could prove invaluble should the car never be right again! I guess you are talking about a mazda 6 with a diesel engine, 2.0 or 2.2? They are renowned for fuel entering the engine oil and making it so thin that it writes the whole engine off due to the chain tensioner being kept 'taught' by oil pressure, especially as it starts making noises after the EML has come on. They need regular oil changes and/or oil sucking out of the engine as it will fill up the sump and then worst case, hydraulic the whole engine, nackered! Do some research and sack it off if you aren't happy with it. Don't let the dealer force you into anything, it's your money and the car you bought wasn't fit for purpose, 2 or 3 weeks is not fit for purpose! Hope this helps a bit, I am in no way a legal eagle but through working in the industry for many years these kinds of things have been asked before and these steps normally sort things out. Good luck mate!

One of my customers had BA57 ARD or BA51 ARD (******, obviously), haven't seen it in a while though.... but then he did squash all the letters together and looked like he just written it as ******, last seen on a heavily modded Focus RS. Also a mate of mine has E8 SHT (EAT ****), let's just say it suits him! 👍

Yes, for some reason the sound system was not a standard fitment in the elegence range it seems. I had been looking for my superb for years but couldn't find one with everything I wanted, also had to be the 170 and 4x4 estate and ofcourse the right price and mileage, so I had to compromise a bit, like the auto dimming rear view mirror that was standard in my octi elegence's, little things like that, but the speakers in the S2 without the sound system are good all rounders, plenty of high and mid range sound, but the bass was lacking a bit too much for me, again compared to the octi's, saying that - upgrading the octi's stream head unit with the bolero's was a great idea as the overall sound, and bass, was much better yet they aren't equipped with a sound system either, so the potential could be there in the standard speakers in the S2, maybe they just need a better setup behind them? For most people it will probably be enough and just fine as they are, but we are all different.

Hi all, No matter how much I try and research the slow start up of my columbus and updating the firmware and maps, I get no real answers, I hope you can help point me in the right direction. The slow start up, well, it takes ages to get to a stage where I can change an input or anything on the radio, sometimes 2 mins! My maps are also so far out of date that roads I know well that have been there for years are not shown on the maps, so any guides could be useless when visiting places I don't know, which is quite often as I drive a lot up and down the country and it would be nice to be able to rely on such maps shoudl I ever get stuck. So I am looking at a firmware update and also a map update, if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great! I'll add a couple of pics of my HW and map stats below! Thank you in advance!

https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Volkswagen-Porsche/Seat_RNS510_Quadlock_Car__pinout.shtml no sign of a remote wire, but it would be interesting to see if Connector block B Pin 10 (CD changer switched positive) could be used as a remote wire? A CD changer will have it's own 12v feed, surely?

Here is the wiring diagram as promised for the front louspeakers. It depends where you are going to pick up the feed from as to what colours the wires are as they change from when they come out the radio to when they enter the door. If you go from the 28 pin connector at the A pillar (T28a) before it goes into the door you will be looking for Negative wire of Brown and Black and a positive of Blue and Black, after T28a (inside the door) they will be Blue and Brown and Blue respectively, hope that makes sense. Sorry if you already know how to read current flow charts like this, I don't know how advanced you are, but best explain it for others who might not anyway. As I said previously, the wiring colour co-ordination was spot on for my car for both rear speakers before they disappeared into the rear doors, hopefully it will be just as perfect for your motor, before making any final joints it will be worth just connecting it up roughly first to make sure they are the correct wires!! As for the blue remote wire, I haven't used one, yet, as I got my electrical feed from an engine running voltage control module for the caravan electrics, so it switches off when I stop the engine and powers up again on start up of the engine. I might have to change this in the future as I have a small issue of it going into protect mode at higher levels, but I will try installing heavier gauge power and earth cables first. There is a remote wire on the back of the radio, so I am lead to believe from googleing RNS510 wiring and looking at some pictures on there. Am I right in thinking that you have a columbus fitted to your S2? If so, I'll try and find out from my current flow charts where you might be able to pick it up without having to remove the HU. 👍

Have you checked for a DSG software update? They are renowned for electrical issues, could be a controller somewhere that needs updating or replacing. Worth a look. All DSG boxes shift into second as soon as you pull off unless you plant the pedal, I am not a fan of that. I would have the selector unit tested, if possible, normally main stealer, but there are lots of VAG independants out there that can do the job cheaper and often better. I wouldn't rule it out, not a cheap module to have done, but it sounds to me like it's an issue around that area. Are there any lights on the dash? Have you got access to VCDS? If there is a fault it might not put a light on but it should still log a 'pending' fault code that you could read and act on that.

Cheers bud, (local lad I note!!) took a while but well worth it! As for picking up a signal from the speakers at the front, it depends on where you want your feeds to go, you could tap in behind the radio itself, right off the back, or you could always tap in to the left and right at the door shuts, haven't stripped that bit out myself, but there will be wires going into the doors, so you could possibly tap in behind the kick panels, at a guess? If you wanted to know the wire colours I could look them up for you, I have a copy of the genuine VAG manual for most Skoda's with complete wiring diagrams, what they use at the main stealers, I found it to be perfectly accurate so I didn't have to mess around testing all the wires for the correct ones. What set up are you looking at?

Not too sure mate, but I'll get mine up on the ramp at work tomorrow, if I can, and have a butchers. I see you have the same model as me (but mine is the estate), why do you need them doing, if you don't mind me asking?

Hi all, Just wanted to share with you my fix to the well talked about superb lack of bass from the stock speakers, I hope this helps some folk. I didn't want anything massive to take up boot space and I also didn't want a big banging sub that will rattle teeth, but it can if you do it right! All I was after was something that tucked away nicely and didn't hinder the use of my car but gave a bit more bass to the lacking stock speakers, I also didn't want to spend loads of money, so I opted for this set up, it looks nice and tidy and it sounds amazing, not boy racer bass but you can have it like that if you want to play with the settings and fit a bigger amp and woofer, but this is fine for me, more than enough to be honest! I used a Juice 900 watt amplifier with a Juice 1200 watt subwoofer, both bought from Car audio centre for just over £100, the amp was bridgeable as I only want to fit one speaker, this way it gets the sound from the left and right audio supply. I had to remove both rear seat airbags (bolsters) and all the trim in the boot, both sides as I wanted to tap in to the rear speaker wires before they entered the door, all the trim and luggage rails had to come out and I managed to find a 'engine running' live from the caravan electrics, but I will be upgrading that to it's own ignition live when I get chance and a better gauge wire! The earth I picked up on the offside of the boot, as pictured, seems to be OK, but again I will be upgrading that to the better gauge wire as I get it. I tapped into both sides speaker wires and soldered good joints with heat shrink, as I only want to do this once. I then had to fit an LOC (Line Out Converter) because the Columbus unit does have a line out but it's a bit of a faff to get sound from that to the boot, so I opted for the easier route, the LOC gives the same effect anyway. I have located the custom made subwoofer box from a company called 'Basser' who are based in Poland, they sell these on Ebay UK too at a cost of £97, in the left hand side of the boot, I have lost the small compartment that this takes up, but I never use it anyway, the amp an LOC are located in the right hand side compartment, again not used for much, but it's all nice and tucked out of the way. Finally, I installed the sub with some sound damping material and put a cover over it to protect it from whatever I have in the boot from damaging it. There were a lot more steps to this fit, but I have kept it short, but if you want more information just ask. I hope this helps someone as I have read lots of other posts on here and no-one has really come up with the solution that I was after, and I am sure I am not the only one who wants nice sound but without losing the useable space in the boot! It sounds amazing, the difference is noticable even at low levels, I listen to all sorts of music, from Rock, Punk etc. to Reggae and Ska, the 80's and Country, and some wierd stuff for the nipper, and it all sounds... well..... Superb!!! More information can be provided to those who want it, including model numbers for the equipment I bought and the colours of wires they are looking for when searching for sound in the vehicle and other wiring! Thanks for reading folks!

Did you get yours sorted narerusco? I am looking at mine the weekend, should be the wiring under the seat, normally the connector block area. If you still need help I'll report back if it helps you!

Had a bit of 'good' fortune today, open the tailgate to test the lines on the window and was getting only mV, so I disconnected the spade terminals from the glass again and tested for the volts there which were 14v+, not now it seems. I then decided to move the loom going from the roof to the tailgate on the nearside and the multimeter fluttered to a few volts and back down. Also, I have another unresolved post on here about my rear wiper not wiping constantly when working the washer, it will only be intermittent, well when I was moving the wiring the wiper did the odd swipe even though the switch was off and it was not in reverse!! So it seems I have a few dodgy wires to fix, oh joy...... now where is my soldering gun??????? 😩

The whole thing has just stopped working mate. I am going to test each individual line tomorrow, if nothing there then I'll try and test as far down the strip where the connectors are to see just how far the power gets, but not one line of it works. Cheers for the reply, e-mail to my phone is on the blink for some reason so sorry for the delayed reply!

Hi all, again! My Superb II estate's rear heated screen has ceased to work. Upon inspection (I removed all the trims from the tailgate) I found that there is indeed a feed there at the spade terminals, the nearside being the live and the offside the earth. When disconnected from the screen there is a reading of 13.98v, when connected to the screen I get a reading of 12v or so...... So something is drawing a current somewhere but not heating the screen up. It was working fine up until Christmas, but then it just didn't defrost one day. If anyone has any thoughts please let me know, I think it must be the connections between the spade terminals and the screen itself but they are all parts of the screen, the rest of the heating element around the window seems ok. As the car still has some warranty left on it I am hoping that they will pay for it, but they only cover certain things. VCDS does not show up any faults. Cheers guys and gals!

I tried that a couple of months ago, but no harm in trying again I suppose.