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yetiscot

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Posts posted by yetiscot

  1. As a recent "victim" --I know , wait for it, " why are you so stupid?" etc

    Apparently about 150000 people a year in the UK alone, in the same boat.

    The AA chap says they sort out at least 6 people a day in my local area who have misfuelled a diesel car-- so obviously there is an issue.

    There are quite a few devices out there, but on closer investigation not many apparently fit a Yeti.

    So has anyone tried any of these things and with what success.

    Car is ok by the way. Didn't drive it so was just a matter of draining the tank and a new fuel filter to be on the safe side.

    As a side note Ford and BMW do fit as standard devices to their filler caps--so why not VAG?

  2. The part number will be different as it's a different shape to the old bumper

    The tailgate does not appear to be significantly different to the old version

    The new bumper is much better than the old one as it does away with an awful dirt trap at the back of the bodywork

    I would try it if you can get it cheap enough--I suppose you can always re flog it if it is no good

    I shouldn't have thought they will have changed the body fixings for it---that would be rather expensive just for a minor facelift

  3. Bought mine there with about 3k discount. Found the sales staff helpful enough although they wanted to hold onto the reg doc as the car was a pre reg[ see my previous posts on that issue] When pressed the reg doc was transferred at the time of the sale. Found the telephone the best method of contact. Ask for Debbie at Preston

  4. I get a transmission clunk when reversing with a good deal of steering lock on, like when reversing out of a parking space. I guessed it was a differential issue with the Haldex because of the large difference in rotating distance between the back and front wheels. I don't remember my pre FL car doing this though.

    Thought I would leave it and mention it at the first service

  5. I have an original Yeti roof bar set arriving from ebay today. I thought the fitting was going to be straightforward?

     

    After reading the above I'm now concerned that I might mess up the installation, does anyone have the original instructions please?

    There are a number of threads on here about the bars

    The issue is complicated somewhat by the fact that the spec for the small bolts has been changed

    Firstly you need to have at least 8 of the tapered fixing bolts to fit the bars. No other bolts but those that come with the bars will work as they have a groove machined in them that the bars attach onto.

    If you have a pre FL car there will be 10 holes for the bolts. This was in order to give you an alternative fixing position at the rear of the car

    The original bolts were fixed using a torx fitting. This has been changed now to an allen key, which having fitted both types, is much better

    When fitting them I placed a thick old towel on the roof as the bolts are inclined downwards towards the roof and are quite close, so if your wrench slips you are in grave danger of scratching the paint. Also because they are inclined downwards it is very easy to get them cross threaded. Getting them started is further complicated because there is a thick layer of threadlock on them. You will need to do it off a stepladder or similar.

    The torque for the bolts is quoted at 5nm. I don't have a torque wrench which goes that low or is small enough to fit in the space, so I nipped them up tight and figured the threadlock will do the rest. All fine so far anyway! Don't go mad, 5nm isn't very much.

    If there does not appear to be much threadlock on the bolts supplied, I would put some more on.

    You can buy the bolts separately, but they are a kings ransom for 8 bolts[£24 from memory]

    The instructions say they should only be reused 3 times, I guess that will be because you will lose threadlock every time

    Sounds complicated but just take your time. The biggest issue I think is not to get cross threaded

    Good luck!

    • Like 1
  6. If you have conditions of reduced visibility you should have your dipped headlamps on and if you wish you can then illuminate your fog lamps if fitted. So the dipped headlamp condition should be fulfilled first in fog--- they are not there just for the benefit of the driver, but also to make your vehicle more visible to other road users, in particular pedestrians and cyclists come to mind.

    To my mind the people who use their fog lights in good visibility deserve the ticket they should get, especially if they are driving only on[ obligatory]side lights  as well

    • Like 1
  7. Why not just a piece of ss chequer plate velcroed to the wheel arch?

    I don't have big feet and the space between the wheel arch and the edge of the pedal is quite small already

    My idea also gets round any safety issues re the foot rest in a possibly dangerous place, if for instance, the welt on your footwear got stuck under the edge of it?

  8. Can't see it being anything other than the replacement windscreen in view of the fact that it has been replaced combined with the location

    As far as the possibility of the roof bars or the aerial being responsible, what about a bit of tape- not too strong! around the sealing points on the roof.

    Again thinking of the windscreen you may need the car moving forward a speed whilst it is raining to drive the rain in round a defective seal.

    In my opinion I would ring Autoglass and explain the situation and see what they say--they may have better methods to detect a problem. It might be helpful to point out your next stop is the main dealer, as if it is the windscreen, I would say Autoglass should pick up the bill/sort the problem

    Quote from their website:

    At Autoglass® we do everything possible to get things right first time, every time.  However, problems can occasionally occur and if one does we guarantee that we will act quickly to put matters right. In the unlikely circumstance that you do experience a problem simply call our dedicated Autoglass® Customer Care Line

    And also:

    Put simply, our workmanship is guaranteed for however long you own your vehicle.

  9. The problem, for me anyway, is finding any reliable and independent source that these things would do any good[or bad]

    They would, I'm sure invalidate any vehicle warranty, so definitely leaves me out for the next 3 years or so, in any case.

    I know we get on the case of the designers of the vehicles at times, but as far as engines go, there is a lot of time and money spent on research and development to make them reliable and economical

    If it's your car and you are happy about the risks, I would say try it out

    FWIW I note that the main use is in racing cars, getting properly thrashed etc and so get very hot.

    Climatic conditions here are also markedly different to OZ  :sweat:

  10. The same place the jack goes, except you will need a pad to go round the welded seam. Ice hockey pucks with a groove cut in them are popular. I have one and it does work. It's a bit of a bind cutting the groove, but the plastic is good and tough.

    I'm sure the issue has been covered on here sometime

     

    I totally agree with you, but where on the Yeti do you support with axle stands?  I have not yet found anywhere that looks strong enough and do all my wheel changing, underbody cleaning and protection using a heavy trolley jack. 

  11. Just as general thought, aimed at no one in particular:

    I was always told, never to drink on an empty head.

    Now, I appreciate that anyone in this unfortunate cranial situation, if they can understand it, through the miasma of confusion , which is a substitute for the normal synaptic activity, more common in the aforesaid region, may find that statement offensive.

    If this applies to you, I obviously apologise. :x

     

     

    I'll get my coat.............before I go

     

    On topic [optional] I still think there is a larger problem than is being admitted with some of the issues described

     

    Goodnight Vienna

  12. It is not acceptable to have to paint doors on newish cars or to take a car back because the rain is getting in. Nor is it acceptable for HT leads to melt onto exhaust manifolds etc etc. You would think those sort of things would be ironed out at the development phase. Look at the numbers of problems with the panoramic roof for example

    5651 is the members on Briskoda--a large proportion of them are driving around in cars with the same equipment/engines, we are discussing.

    If forums like this were not available the manufacturers would get away with murder and many more people would get fobbed off.

    It's healthy discussions we're having here.

    I have never had a car that leaked water before or had to be painted because of corrosion when 2 years old [and I have owned a Landrover Discovery, but that's another story]!.

    VAG/ Skoda need to be better at the job of making cars. Minor faults I can live with. They are complicated things, I know that.

    Motoring is expensive enough without having to cough up for a new engine or get a huge bill for respraying body panels when the thing is out of warranty due to lack of time in development by the designers.

  13. There are perhaps now more than 250 members here, not all of them have reported "problems", out of how many thousands of owners, therefore the percentage of "problem" cars is minuscule. 

    You will find every car forum is the same as NO manufacturer has yet built the perfect car!!

    Stop worrying and have a Dubel!!

    5651 actually- but I agree as one of those who have had unacceptable problems[ paint blisters and water ingress] with both the Yetis I have owned, I can understand why someone would get a bit hot under the collar and perhaps get a bit hyperbolic about it all. Your sense of proportion takes a bit of a hit when you cough up 20k for something which turns out to be less than perfect.

  14. That means you loose the use of the rear seats.

    I would have much preferred a retracting cover like on our Fabia Estate for when we have our dog with us.

     

    Edit: From pre F/L Manual

     

    ""Removing the luggage compartment cover

    – Fold the seat backrests a little forward in order to facilitate the removal of the luggage compartment cover.

    – Unhook the support straps on the boot lid Place the cover in the horizontal position.

    – Pull the luggage compartment cover out of the holders to the rear or press on the bottom side of the luggage compartment cover in the front area.

    – Fold the slackened front part of the luggage compartment cover over the head restraints of the rear seats.

    – Slightly tilt the luggage compartment cover and remove it to the rear.

    – Install again by pushing the luggage compartment cover forwards into the holder and hanging the support straps on the boot lid.

    You can stow the removed luggage compartment cover behind the rear seat backrest.""

    Mine's in the attic :thumbup:

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