B&C

Think that could be it then, cheers. I was watching the needle on the drive home and it was sitting much lower than 90 - more like 70-75, although it was a cold motorway journey. Having not had the car long, I don't know what sort of fuel economy to expect, but I tend to get 35-39mpg on the motorway, slightly less on country roads. (The car isn't modified.) I'm assuming a P1296 fault code could indicate a faulty thermostat... and it sounds like the other evidence would back that up. That's my Saturday afternoon planned for me, then! Thanks to everyone who chipped in with advice - I'm always chuffed at how good the responses are on this site.

Yeah, thanks. I've changed the coolant temp sensor (it was a green one, so think it's already had at least one replacement). However, now the temp gauge is more erratic. It used to permanently sit at 80 degrees. Now the needle hovers between 70 and 80 and swings up to 90 when idling, in town traffic or after some enthusiastic driving. Not sure what the correct running temp is - I haven't had the car long. I wonder if it is the thermostat sticking - I believe it would be covered by the P1296 fault code too, so I'll look into that. Just out of interest, what are the symptoms of water pump failure?

Right, cheers. I was under the impression it would turn off straight away. But I'll try driving it for a few days, as you suggest, and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the suggestion. Do you know roughly how long it should take to turn off - and if it does disappear, is that the end of it or will I need to get the fault cleared, or something like that? And any idea what that fault code could refer to if it isn't the coolant sensor? Thanks again...

I'm trying to get my blasted engine management light to go off - I've had it read and it throws up a P1296 code. The garage turned the light off, but it came back on a day later. They said I should change the coolant temp sensor, which I've just done, to no avail. The light is still on (the guy at Skoda said if that was the problem, it would turn off automatically). So, I'm not willing to start changing other things to weed out the issue by trial and error. I'll let a garage sort it. Should I use a dealer, which should give me the best shot at finding the fault, or an independant garage, which will be cheaper? I would use an indie VW/ Skoda/ Audi place but there aren't any close enough to where I work. What would people recommend in this situation? Thanks very much for any advice...

Wow - sounds so simple even I could do it. I'll give it a try at the weekend. Hope the light won't come back on in the meantime - I have to use the car for my 80 mile round trip to work every day. Thanks again for all your advice - very useful indeed.

Thanks - think I will have a go at fitting it myself. Could you just describe where it is (is it on the side of the rad?) and how I get to it? And will I lose coolant from the system? The garage recommended I drive it and see if the light comes back on, but a new sensor is cheaper than the diagnosis was, so it makes sense to just replace it. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks very much. It looks like you were right - I've just had it tested and the fault code (P1296) points to a faulty temp sensor, according to the garage. Should be a relatively cheap fix if that is the case, shouldn't it? Thanks again

Morning all, Not had my 2001 VRS long, but the engine warning light has just come on during my drive to work. Naturally, I'm now bricking it. It seems to be running fine - except when I stopped, I started the engine again and let it run and it was idling at about 2000rpm before dropping to a normal idle after a couple of seconds. Yesterday I filled it up with 98RON from Tesco - the first time it's drunk high octane fuel since I got it. Just coincidence? Or could the detergents in this petrol have dragged something through the lines? And do I need to stop driving it until I can have it hooked up to a code reader? Any advice greatly appreciated, as ever. Cheers

I think it happens regardless of whether the air con is on or not, but I'll rule it out, cheers. Sounds like it's coming from quite far back in the bay (just in front of bulkhead area) but it's intermittent - it doesn't happen every time and it only lasts a second or so. It just sounds loud and a bit unhealthy.

Afternoon all, A few days ago I picked up my Octavia VRS - a silver 2001 with 85k on the clock and fsh. I haven't owned one before and it's a lot of fun for very little money. I'm chuffed. Seems to be running well so far (touch wood) - apart from a noise from the engine when I close the boot (sounds weird, I know). On cold idle, occasionally there's a short, loud screech from the engine bay when I shut the boot lid. It sounds like a belt slipping and I'm hoping that's all it is - maybe caused by the jolt from the boot being slammed. Has anyone experienced this or do you know what it could be? By the way, I got some cracking buying advice through this forum when I was shopping round for my car, so thanks very much to all who chipped in.

Not sure - it only has stamps in the service history, no receipts. I'll try to find out, though. Thanks for the advice. Regarding the soggy carpet, mouldy false floor and puddle by the spare wheel, the mechanics reckon it's condensation because the car's been standing for a month. There was about half a cup-full of water in the polystyrene tray by the spare wheel, which seems a lot of water in a very specific place to be general condensation. When I asked my local Skoda dealer this afternoon, they told me this sounds like too much water to be condensation and is likely to be a leak. Any further thoughts? I know a lad with a Bora and another guy with a Seat Leon which have had consistent leaks that dealers haven't been able to diagnose. I know it's a different car, but I'm worried it might be an undiagnosable problem and they're trying to gloss over it. Thanks again for the help.

Just spoke to dealer. He said the car went into the workshop today for a cambelt change. The water pump was checked but not replaced. Does this sound right? It's on 84k and its last service was at 66k, though the belt hasn't been done since 40k-ish. cheers

Might not be too bad after all, then. Is it standard procedure to change the pump at the same time as the cambelt? I was initially a bit put off by the fact it's clocked up 84k - I'd usually buy stuff under 60k - but it seemed nice and tight when I drove it and, as you say, the servicing package should give peace of mind. To be honest, the soaking wet boot carpet is the only thing that's putting me off - but maybe I'm over-reacting.

That's a good point - it had been steamcleaned, which could well explain it.

Thanks again. To be fair to the dealer, they have offered to give me a written guarantee re. the moisture through their workshop (they say the warranty that comes with the car probably wouldn't cover it). You're right – I'm convinced it's more than just condensation too. The problem is I live 100 miles away and I need my car for work, so can't be to-ing and fro-ing to get it sorted. On the issue of the price, i know it's top end - it's an 04 with 84k, full SkodaSH. It looks and drives like new but it's listed at £4k with a service and new cambelt before it goes out. I'd much prefer to buy through Skoda, but do you reckon that's way too high..? Cheers