bris24

Hi pab567 many thanks for reply. I will get a replacement aerial base unit and see it that fixes it. The fault is intermittent as it worked OK this morning. Regards, Brian

Hi @pab567 Hope you don't mind me calling you as suggested by Nigel above. I would appreciate if you could help in anyway. Regards Brian

Hi pab567, Are you able to determine the DAB antenna system in my car from the VIN? Also any other info you can provide like location and access etc would be greatly appreciated. Regards Brian

Hi, Thanks for advice. I have done a scan (With an OBDeleven tool) and the faults I get are: B110311 - Digital radio antenna 1 Short circuit to ground static U11B800 - Interface for external media No communication Intermittent However, I cleared the faults and did another scan this morning (and the DAB radio was working OK) And only get one fault: B110311 - Digital radio antenna 1 Short circuit to ground static Does help to clarify the possible cause? Regards

Hi, Many thanks for replies. So a likely cause is a faulty DAB aerial/amplifier. What is worth changing first, the amp or aerial or is it just one unit? Also, are these parts behind the rear head-lining and fairly easy to remove? For reference the car is a 2015 hatch-back and has the following vin TMBFJ6NJ1FZ060711. The aerial is as shown below. Regards

Hi, I trust someone can help. My Fabia Mk3 1.4TDI has recently had problems with the DAB reception. The DAB radio can take a minute or two to get a signal and play or not play at all. When the radio won't play there is a symbol showing an aerial with a line through it (no signal?). The FM plays OK. I get the fault code .B110311 - Digital radio antenna 1 Short circuit to ground static. This seems to be a fairly common problem with VW make cars and I have read various posts about possible fixes which are a bit confusing. Some suggest fitted a separate DAB aerial to the radio. I wonder if anyone has had this problem and managed to fix it. The fault code implies a wiring problem. Is it possible to fix this? I look forward to all comments and suggestions. Regards

Hi, I meant to add that the incidents of misfire are every now and again and when not misfiring the engine seems to run OK. Also when the engine is misfiring the engine management light doesn't come on. As mentioned above the only engine error code I get is P1689 but wether this relevant to the problem I am not sure. So again I would appreciate all replies, suggestions and help. Regards

Hi, I trust someone can help. I am having occasional problems with a misfire when accelerating and I get error code P1689 Databus drivetrain implausible message from electronic central electric Intermittent. Does anyone have a solution for this? I did think it might be the injector wiring loom playing up and it needed replacement? All replies, comments and help gratefully received. Regards

Hi, Thanks for the answer. I have found a few threads as well which is where I got the information for spacesaver I needed (125/70 R18 tyre fitted to a 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 steel rim). But I am still trying to be really sure the wheel will fit before I commit to buying. So any info on the Karoq and Kodiaq spacesaver would be very helpful.

Hi, I am looking to purchase a spacesaver spare wheel for my 2023 2.0TDI Octavia estate which has 205/60 R16 tyres as standard. The complete kit from Skoda is quite expensive so hope to buy a wheel and tyre from ebay and then the tool kit and foam insert from Skoda (Approx £76). I gather that I need a 125/70 R18 tyre fitted to a 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 steel rim. There are on Ebay spacesaver wheels with tyres from Karoq and Kodiaq cars which are fitted with the correct tyre and have a similar steel rim designation 31/2 J x18H2 ET25.5. They seem to be the same spacesaver as fitted to the Octavia. Are these tyres the correct fit for an Octavia? All help/comments gratefully received. Regards

Thanks everyone. I have now released the glove box and replaced the fuse. I blew the 12v outlet when using a badly wired camp bed pump. I used a flat screwdriver to deflect the tabs as suggested above.

Many thanks. That is for a VW and the pull pin is on the opposite side but I have now released that pin. My retaining latches are different and less obvious. I will work on that later.

Hi Thanks for reply. My handbook says to first "release the box brake pull pin* which is shown on RHS of glove box and then press latches on inside to remove glovebox. So l don't release the pin. I can't move it.

I understand that the fuse box is behind the glove box. Can someone advise how to remove the glove box. The car manual is very unclear. I have tried to follow the instructions with no success. All suggestions gratefully received.

Hi, I like to update this issue. The injectors and engine had no problems for about 9 months and 8000miles or so. However while travelling back in France I had the same problem, same fault code but this time turning engine off and on did not sort it. Again the code was P020300, The fault was the same injector and was now permanent. I had the injector replaced in France and then eventually (about 2 weeks later) drove it home. It has been fine so far. I am wondering how likely it is for the other injectors to fail. From what I have read it is the electrical part on top that fails. Is it worth having a spare of this part in the car and is it reasonable to replace on the roadside?

Hi, Just to confirm. The European breakdown cover is included for £13 a month (and so is travel insurance and some mobile phone cover). For details go to the Nationwide site. Regards

Hi I recently broke down near Dijon on French motorway driving back from a ski-ing holiday. We had breakdown cover with our Nationwide Flex Plus current account. Costs £13 a month. The breakdown cover is provided by the AA. I have to say that I was fairly impressed with their service. We got a pick up from the motorway to a local garage. The AA assistance then spoke to the breakdown guy and sorted the recovery cost off the motorway. They then arranged for a taxi to take us (4 people) to Dijon to pick up a hire car. As it was fairly late on a Saturday they arranged hotel accommodation near Reims. The next day we drove to Lille and caught a Eurostar to London and then a train from Paddington to Bristol. All of the transport was arranged by and paid for by AA Assistance. We had to pay for food and fuel for the hire car. They arranged for a garage to fix the car after me aggreeing to the repair costs. They then paid for me to travel out to Dijon to pick up the car. They arranged a flight from Bristol to Paris Orly, Taxis from the airport to the Gare de Lyon and TGV to Dijon, overnight stay in Dijon and a taxis to the garage the next day to pick up the car. All of which they paid for. We had to phone the AA European assistance several times to make and confirm each step of the journey home and for the return journey. I could always get through fairly quickly and spoke to someone who could speak fairly good English. I thouht it would all be a bit of a nightmare however the recovery, return to the UK and return to pick-up the car all went very well.

I had to take off the tailgate trim to do the wiring. Everything looked Ok; there was no staining or indication of water ingress. As I mentioned the spring clip on the corroded bulb holder was missing and the paintwork around the bulb holder also showed corrosion so possibly the water had got in between the bulb holder and the tailgate. The other bulb holder was fine.

Hi, I have now replaced the number plate bulb (Pt.No.K1K9943021D £18.90 inc vat from Skoda) Also needed to replace the connector on the end of the wiring loom. I got a connector from Skoda (Pt.No.K8w0971832 £5.64 inc VAT). Unfortunately this was only the connector casing ie no pins! Pins on wire tails are available from Skoda. But I searched on 8W0972575 (the male connector Pt.No.) and I found that I could get the male connector and mating female connector with wire tails from Total Auto Connectors (PA Products) for £7.98 inc Vat with next day delivery. So I cut off the existing male connector and spliced in the new male connector. Also I bought some Permatex Dielectric Grease which I put on the electric connections. Hopefully this will last for a while.

Hi, This problem happened to me 6 months ago and about 8000 miles ago. Since then I have had no problems at all with the injectors. I checked the resistance of each injector and all were in spec. So I am assuming it was an intermittent electrical fault.

I don't think there is water ingress other than between the bulb holder and car body but I plan to take off the tail gate trim to check. I will try to get some 770 grease or similar.

The photo below shows water damaged bulb holder.

Yes, I am planning to coat the male and female part of the connector with vaseline. Unless there's something better? Also it looked very likely water was leaking in between the bulb holder and the car body possibly caused by the missing spring clip. Considering using sealant between these surfaces to ensure it is water tight?

Hi, many thanks for the reply. I have ordered a new bulb holder and connector from Skoda. Pick them up on Saturday. I am not sure exactly what the connector will consist of but it seems to be a spare that is often supplied with the bulb holder. I will keep you posted.

Hi, On a 2015 Fabia 1.4TDI Hatch one of the number plate bulb holders (RHS) is badly corroded and the body work that the holder fits into is rusting with the paint blistering. The other bulb holder and body work (LHS) are fine. Also the bulb holder was so badly corroded that in removing the electrical connector the metal parts of the holder broke leaving part of the bulb holder contact pins in the connector. See below. Has anyone had a similar problem? The bulb holders is held in by a spring clip which had disappeared on the corroded side so I think the seal between the holder and the body was not very good so letting water in. I now have to remove a contact pin from the connector. I managed to get one broken pin out with a pliers but the other is flush with the surface and I couldn't pull it out with the pliers. So any thoughts on how I might be able to remove it or could I just push it further in? Also are replacement electrical connectors available? I welcome any thoughts or suggestions.