gidi19

Update So the new genuine part came,and ut was the f revision. Measured jt with the meyle one and they are both identical. So either the f revision is the right part or i need the b revision. Spent another 4 hours trying to fit it in,and snapped the top bushing. Out of pure frustration, I just put everything back together again,the best I could and have now parked the car up. Its making a vibration noise, but thays probably because I havnt done a proper job. Just going to give to a mechanic and let them sort it out.

So the first time I got the A revision from ebay. Febi make. Second time I got the F revision from autodoc mylee make. Both are wrong,ive got the CRLB engine so should have got B revision,but chat gpt told me F is the updated revised version. Whay a load of malarkey. Hope the genuine ones turn out to be the right ones

Hi. So after spending another 3 hours today trying to fit it in,I gave up. Out of curiosity I compared it with the genuine one that came out and it seems the mylee one i ordered from auto doc is a few mm bigger then the original one. So ive now ordered the genuine one from TPS for £116 which will arrive on Thursday. Lets see how this one goes. Turning into a proper nightmare. Only place that does the correct fitting tool is laser 9082 but its cost £650. That's just too much

Hi all, Just an update. So it was definitely the cause of my issue. I ordered a cheapy bush removal tool and managed to get the old bushing out. The top part was ripped and I manged to rip the whole rubber apart by hand. Now this is where my battle has began. Trued putting the new bushing in using the tool. Failed miserably and after 2 hours of struggling,managed to crack the new mount casing. Upon further research,realised I had the wrong part.it was off by one letter. So ordered the new updated bushing. That came today but still same problem. Ive ordered a more expensive tool but it still isnt the right tool,its for the old aluminium subframe. I am at my wits ends. Please cam anyone link me to the right tool. I cant justify paying £700 for the laser 9028 tool that im being told i need. Sorry for the long winded text,spent over a week with the car on ramps unable to move

Hi all. Cars been making a horrible sound over bumps,mostly noticeable on the passenger side. Also when accelerating i can feel the left side jerk. Have narrowed the problem down to the sub frame bushing or dog bone collar. Can someone check the attached video and advise if deffo subframe off job or is there a easier way. Also does the amount movement look like the problem. VID-20260503-WA0000.mp4

Hi, Mine has the same issue. When you say mechanic replaced the pcv valve, was it with one of them after market kits,if so it wont fix your problem as I learned the hard way. What you really need to replace is the rocker cover which has the pcv valve built in, cant be replaced separately. Also go for a good quality rocker cover and not a cheapy Chinese one.

To be honest, I don't know how but it sorted it self out. At the time I thought it was because it was getting too hot due to the hot weather we had at the time.

Just a quick update. Managed to have a go at fixing the issue. As Cairus stated one of the green wires was damaged and was barely touching each other. Managed to solder them together. Wasn't the best of jobs but will see how it goes. Was a very tight space

I'm assuming its a steering wheel off, remove left stalk and try find the broken wires.

Hi all. Keep getting an error on the dash saying 'driver assistance button not working' it keeps randomly popping up. Vcds scan shows it as 226843 turn signal switch. Everything works on the car and everytime i try clear the code it pops back up. Read on other forums that it might not be coded correctly so I tried using a different code and that didn't work, just brought up more error codes. Can anyone suggest what might be the problem?

Hi all. New fault with the car. Skoda superb 2016 lnk 2.0 tdi. A message appears on the dash. Keyless access system faulty. Keeps beeping whilst driving. Ive tried turning keyless entry off via vcds and hasn't made a difference. Vcds scan shows short to ground on driver side door. Has anyone had same problem that can advise? So far the solution looks like a new door handle but would like a second opinion before replacing. Only way I can drive in peace is by keeping vcds connected to the car and clearing rhe code whilst driving Thanks

Only way to fix is by replacing the heater matrix. Its not a hard job, just a bit fidly. Whilst replacing the heater matrix its worth replacing the coolant reservoir with one without a silica bag in it.

Shame to hear that. Doesn't seem like mechanics want to do any problem solving anymore. Just a good old, replace the whole engine. Oil light came on again after heading back from the inlaws on a 110 mile journey Stopped at a service station and noticed some new oil marks on the oil pcv valve, I made sure I wiped it clean before I set off and intentionally did not top up the oil. So im going to maybe investigate the pcv valve a little further. Will take a pic and post later

Quick update. Piston soak has not made much of a difference. Car has done currently 400 miles and oil dipstick is below half mark. I had it filled to the top. Im going to keep driving it till the oil low sign comes on. Any update with the turbo check? Car drives completely fine. Managed to hit 110 with no issues, just to try clear any thing out

How did you suck the liquid out? Did u put any oil in the chamber before trying to crank it? Thx

Can anyone confirm if im doing the piston soak correctly. All the videos on the web all relate to a petrol engine. Ive poured the b12 into the glowplug chamber,let it soak overnight, tried to suck anything out by putting a plastic tube into the glowplug chamber and a hoover attachment. There was suction but nothing came out. Cranked the engine couple of times after removing the wheel and arch liner. Poured some more b12 in, bottle emptied and will let it soak till tmrw. The next step is to turn the engine on and let all the gunk fly out. This part is scaring me a little. Can someone confirm if this is right?

Car was bought second hand. Ive owned it for a year now. It drives completely fine, but just the loss of oil. I gave it a full service including the gear box oil.

Just for anyone who wants to attempt it in the future. Here's a pic of joining got the b12 into the chamber. I got a smaLloyds funnel and attached some clear plastic tubing at the end. One thing to note,the area around the glow plugs was filthy. I should have sucked it all out but didn't. Im going to try suck it all put somehow after the piston soaking

Ignore above. Glow plug 3 has come out successfully. I was just being overly cautious. It needed turning alot more then the other glow plugs. I also kinda had to pull it towards me to get the threads to grip.

Quick update. Managed to take glow plug 1,2 and 4 off without any issue. Glow plug 3 however is just spinning round and round. Im guessing its snapped. I was very careful and spray lots of wd40. Im going to pour the b12 in the 3 plug holes. Let it do its job and hope that glow plug 3 doesn't cause a major issue once its all back together again.

Im using quantum 5w30. Im not sure if it was fully or semi synthetic. The mannol one is fully synthetic and the castrol im going to put in doesnt say what it is.

Car does not smoke at all. Would have to double check in the morning. I had someone follow me and they daid they couldn't see any smoke.

It was also suggested to me that can be a turbo issue, but the car drives completely fine. Please let me know how it goes for you.

Hi Sorry all, I got busy over the weekend and just read the replies. Thank you all. So as fr1nklyn suggested I am going to try a piston soak. I have already ordered the Berryman B12 and yesterday evening took the glow plug connectors off and squirted some wd40 into the glow plugs too loosen them up. Plan is to give it a 24 hour soak starting today after work. I normally use quantum oil from TPS for the yearly service. Still leaking. I've also bought a 20 liter drum of Mannol 507 oil, just to keep topping the car up every time the oil low sign comes on. This time after the piston soak and a couple of engine flushes I plan on using Castrol 5w30 Edge, which was currently on offer at Costco for £30 for 5 litres. The thinking behind it being maybe a better quality of oil might help. I also initially thought that it could be DPF related and had a DPF delete done. So technically the car doesn't have a DPF anymore so should not be doing any regens. (had it done at a reputable place for £450 so i'm assuming it was done properly) I will do the soak over the weekend and reply back on Monday with any results. The video I watched was for a soak on a 2.0 petrol engine where the B12 was poured into the piston chamber after removing the spark plugs. As mine is a TDi, i'm assuming the same procedure would be done but after removing the gow plugs? If anyone else has done a piston soak on a diesel I would be grateful to know how you did it.

Hi all. Skoda superb 2.0 tdi LnK 155,000 mileage.2016 plate. Car is loosing oil. Has been an ongoing issue. 1st mechanic I took it to said rocker cover gasket, so had that replaced. No difference. 2nd mechanic said oil gasket seal, so had the cambelt/water pump and oil gasket seal replaced. Car still loosing oil. 3rd mechanic pulled the oil dipstick whilst the engine was hot and running, saw smoke coming out of it and said pistons are going, and probably need a new engine as the car is burning oil inside the block. Is this correct? There are no visible oil stains on the driveway Or visible oil marks anywhere. I have put oil dye in and checked with a uv light,but couldn't find anything. Any suggestions on what to check besides a new engine.