DBT85

Just had to get my rear seat out because one of the belt clips wouldn't lock. When you push down on those clips, push seat base toward the rear of the car and lift. I used my knee to nudge it while leaning on the clip. There was a small stone in the belt clip that has now been moved to a new home.

Ok, so this has been an issue I've had for at elast a year and just not got around to even looking at. my AC gets nice and cold which has been very nice in the recent weather. Chilling ones buttocks is also very nice on those long drives like the 6 hour schlep we did up to Stirling from the midlands last year, a journey the 280 L&K was perfect for. However, when I turn my chilled seats on, everything works fine for a while. Eventually I want a bit of cooler air elsewhere and it feels like the blower is going full tilt but barely anything is coming from the vents to the point where the car feels stifling forcing me to *gasp* open a window. It seems to correct itself if the car is left overnight, but apart from that I've not found a reliable cure. I did once set the controls to blow it all up the windscreen and after about 2 minutes there was a definite increase in airflow and decrease in noise from the blower as it felt like something got unblocked or a flap moved or something. I thought I had found a cure for my oddity but alas, it was not able to be replicated. It's got to the point where if we're on a 2 hour drive I won't dare activate cold butt until were at least 90 minutes in. Any thoughts?

My 280 is at 75k miles and now only just 5 years old in September, the vast majority was on the motorway with ACC on. The discs looked fine apart from 2 rings that for some reason were not wearing at the same rate, with commensurate marks in the pads. Yours look like they've used some pre chewed toffee for the discs.

More than a little late to the party but thank you for the info contained within this thread. My Skoda dealer (Startin Skoda in Worcester) wanted £665 for new front pads, rear pads and rear disks on my 280. Happy with 75,000 miles out of those, not happy with that price. I picked up Pagid pads and Brembo 310mm vented rear disks (would have got Pagid but they were OOS) for about £170 from carparts4less. Incidentally, they were £40 cheaper than ECP, despite being the exact same company and even delivered in a ECP van! Naturally an easy job just became a ballache when I realised I needed to disengage the electronic handbrake. Fortunately this thread pointed me in the direction of Carista which have a 7 day free trial when you sign up for the 12 month sub, which you can immediately cancel and so get the app to do what you need for nowt, and I already had a blutooth ODB dongle. Next I just needed to put the car on charge as advised...only my charger despite having been used extensively with no issues decides that today, the time I need it, it is fully dead. F. M. L. Oh and of course I'm doing this in the glorious sunshine and on a gravel driveway for more funs. Just wanted to reply and say that I was able to replace the rear 310mm vented disks without dismantling the entire car. Only 1x T45 caliper pin (hidden under a dust cap) needed to be undone to flip the caliper up and out of the way to do the pads, and the disk has juuuuust enough room to slide on and off without having to remove the carrier. I will note that the disk required substantial persuasion in order to budge in the first place though.

Honestly I've had Continental TS 860s on mine for what feels like 2 years now and never bothered taking them off. One tyre review test at some magic place that can heat the road up and add ice etc showed the crossover on performance not being down at 7c but actually nearer 15c, so I just rolled with it and have been very happy.

Genuinely surprised that made any difference as the contacts are all under a silicone cover.

Ohh lets see. I've just done it at 58k and first handover to the garage I got it from was 22nd September 2017, so just over 3.5 ish years old now. It was probably doing it at least 6 months ago if not more, but when you don't know its a known issue you put it down to not hitting it right or whatever. Only in the last 3 months have I really realised that its taking multiple actions to start and stop the car and it wasn't just me having finger trouble. I might have been able to argue when it has its major service next week that the button to start the car isn't fit for purpose if it dies 4 years in, and that it should be replaced free despite being out of warranty. Frankly for 20 minutes of fiddling it was easier doing this. Last thing I wanted was them doing it and going "well we decided not to do it for free so where's our £150 for this 10 minute job?".

I just repaired my engine stop start button. It had developed the common fault of working less and less often and I know I could have replaced it but I figured I'd have a go at repairing first. 1 T25 screw in the underside of the lower column shroud, then 2 T25 screws in the column only visible when the wheel is turned 90 degrees. With the lower cover off I unplugged the 2 connectors. 1 is the switch and 1 is the light. Using the probes on my meter I popped the bits that helped me push the barrel out of the shroud and set about dismantling it. There are 4 plastic clips holding it together. 1 is visible, 1 is hidden under the sticker and 2 are hidden under the metal clips on either side. With pliers gently pull those metal clips out, then using the extra arms you were born with, get something under each of the 4 clips and separate the barrel. It all comes apart after that and all I did was apply a little iso alcohol to the 4 contact points on the board as well as to the 4 contacts on the silicone bit. Put it all back together and now I can turn my car on and off first time every time. Rather than 7th time sometimes! For the sake of the search engine I'll add the words KESSY engine stop start button. No need to spend any money to have your car start like it should do! I hadn't seen this post before, but there's a photo in it of the barrel disassembled