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More confusion. I have noticed on some threads on other forums that some people have suggested that the Fan Control Unit (J0 919 506K) could be the culprit. On a golf it is supposed to be mounted next the battery but I can't find where it is at on the Octavia. I wish Haynes would bring out a manual for the mk 2 Octavia.I have never owned a car before where it is so hard to get any technical information on. The Briskoda forum is a godsend. All the best.

More confusion. Because I thought I might have damaged the fan putting it back on the car I took it off and retested it. The small one separately will run either way but the large one, that's another matter. When I applied power to the large plug both fans ran......backwards. Reversing the polarity did not make either fan run. Perhaps their is something in the plug circuit from the cars ecu that prohibits reverse polarity? Also does anyone know what this is (see attached pics) or where it plugs in. It is attached to the same wiring loom as the fans power supply. I am assuming it is a temperature sender probe but is it for the dashboard instruments temperature display or for the air conditioning fan. Any help would be appreciated because I am getting nowhere on my own. Thanks (in anticipation) and all the best

Thanks for the reply silver 1011. I only have a generic reader but scanned it and it showed the following codes; 18320,17887, 16500, 16475, 07183, 17833, 17935, 17435 and 18068. all but the last four reset. I can't seem to find out what all the codes mean but I will keep looking. Thanks and all the best

I recently repaired the smaller air con fan on my Octy2 1.6 fsi (2005). One of the brushes was stuck in its holder and wasn't making contact with the rotor. I released it and reassembled the fan and I tested it before fitting it to the car and it ran fine Now it is fitted it to the car it does not run even when the air conditioning is switched on. Does this fan run constantly when you switch the air con on or is it triggered by a temperature sender. Are there any specific relays or fuses that would prevent it from running. I am at a loss because I can't find any info anywhere. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks (in anticipation) and all the best Tom

Oh how I long for the simplicity of my old Golf Mk2. I tested the battery voltage before I locked the car last night. It was 12.3v.... not exactly brilliant. When I got up this morning it was reading only 12.1v. I started the engine with a test meter across the battery. It dropped to 9.7v. I decided to bite the bullet and get a new battery. I got an Exide Excell EB712 72Ah with three years warranty for a very good price. It was fitted three hours ago and I am quite disappointed. Not in the battery which is showing 12.7v after a 4 mile drive. It starts instantly which it didn't do with the old one. I cleared the codes and when I switched the ignition back on the engine light was on again. This Canbus malarky is evil. As Catweasel would say 'Electrickery'. I am giving my age away there. Half of you are probably smiling while the other half are wondering what I am wittering on about. Back to the battery, I used my mates battery back up pack to preserve any ECU codes (his advice) but I am not sure it worked because when I connected the new battery it triggered the anti-theft alarm. Then joy of joys - the power steering warning lamp came on, first red then turning orange.The owners manual said red is total failure and orange is partial failure but the power steering was working perfectly. I drove into town and stopped and started the engine a few times and this has cleared itself... hopefully permanently. My mate who is an excellent mechanic said that sometimes Canbus cars can be a bit temperemental when reconnecting batteries and that it should sort itself out in a couple of days. I really love my Skoda, I like the way it does everything expensive cars do for a lot less. I like the way I can laugh at badge snobs knowing they haven't got a clue what the hell they are talking about. At the moment I don't like the way this one is winding me up. If you think any of the advice I have been given is rubbish or you have any further views on the mental torment this car is causing please let me know. Thanks and all the best

Many thanks to all who replied. I was of the mind it would be electrical, they are the worst faults to fix. I need the car for work for the next two days but hopefully I will get it charged up on Wednesday. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again and all the best.

The other day whilst fitting a replacement fuel filler flap and DRL's I forgot I had left my sidelights on. I also had the radio on during both of these jobs.. The result was the car wouldn't start. I used my trusty old Yamaha Diversion to start it with jump leads. When I got it fired up the engine light came on so I scanned it using my cheapy scanner it revealed five different codes which I erased. When I restarted the car the engine fault appeared cured but it came back on after 4 seconds. I took it to my mate who is an excellent mechanic and he used his code reader (not a cheapy, in fact almost £700) and he cleared the codes. One returned which was 18068 (P1660) which he informed me was the Coolant Fan circuit. Since then I have checked the codes again and they are as listed below. My mate said three of them are false stating that if the 17935 (P1527) was true then the engine wouldn't run. What is puzzling me is the car is running fine and I am regularly achieving 42 mpg which I don't think is bad for a 1.6 FSi. It is doing my nut in, I like things to be right and I am at a loss as to how the car can be running so well yet be showing faults. I anyone has experienced this and cured it or has any helpful suggestions then you may just help to keep me out of one of those nice jackets that buttons up the back. Thanks in advance and all the best to everyone on here. DTC Codes after Fuel Flap Replacement Code Description Possible Cause 17435 (P1027) Activation Intake Manifold Flap for Air Stream Regulation, Short to Ground Wiring short to earth, intake manifold air control solenoid 17833 (P1425) EVAP Purge Valve (N80), Short to Ground Wiring short to earth, EVAP canister purge valve 17935 (P1527) Intake Camshaft Contr. Circuit, Bank 1 (N205), Short to Ground Wiring short to earth, CMP actuator 18068 (P1660) Coolant Fan Control 1, Short to Ground Wiring short to earth, engine coolant blower motor

Hello everyone, I hope you are all well. I thought I would add this post, hopefully it will help someone. My octavia mk2 alarm siren had given up the ghost and needed replacing. I purchased a used alarm siren unit off ebay for the measly price of £16 including p+p, a saving of £98 on a new one. It was guaranteed working and delivered within two days. Incidentally it is the 1K0951605C one. If they have any left the link is below. (http://www.ebay.co.u...=item564ecc2063) I don't have a garage and it's bloody cold up here in Cumbria so I wanted it to do it as quick as possible. I set about the job and jacked the car up and removed the wheel. I didn't remove the wheel arch liner, I only removed the rear seven torx screws and pulled it down slightly which allowed me access (albeit tight) to the siren unit. I undid the nut on the back of the siren and was surprised to find I couldn't remove it. This is when I discovered it is held in a tin box type holder. I undone the top 10mm nut from the box type holder and discovered (with a torch) that some sadistic swine at Skoda thought it would be a good idea to rivet the lower box mount to the wing. This is obviously a ploy to get customers to take it to a dealer to get the job done. I didn't drill the rivet out. I simply (but ever so carefully) rotated the box clockwise about 45 degrees and carefully pulled the top of the box towards me. This gave me enough clearance to remove the old siren and replace it. I then just put everything back together. I managed to get the job done in less than 25 minutes. The hardest part was holding the torch in my mouth, (the wife wasn't prepared to get cold). I hope this is of some use to others and helps those possibly put off by the thought of having to drill out rivets. Happy Christmas to all Tom

I hope this is the right section to post this in, be gentle, I'm a newby. I thought I would brighten up my interior (Octavia Mk2 I.6 FSI) with some LED lamps for the map lamps and the interior roof lamps. I am now edging towards a nervous breakdown. The rear roof lamp goes out 15 seconds after the door closes. The front roof lamp and the map lamps remain on. I can switch the front three lamps off by sliding the switch to off. I can switch the lamps off and the map lamps can be switched on independently (I assume this is correct). If I switch the ignition on as soon as I get in the car the rear lamp goes out but the front three stay on. I fitted two LEDs in the boot and they have given no problem. I also fitted a Sony radio using a harness adaptor and the damn thing won't switch off when I remove the ignition key. I can switch it off manually but I have a memory like a sieve and I know it is only a matter of time before I end up with a flat battery. I have only had the car three days and SWMBO is already harping on about making a mistake trading in our Mitsubishi for it. It seems such a strange problem but If anyone can help I would be grateful.

Hello everyone I have just purchased a Skoda Octavia MK2 1.6 FSI Ambiente and I thought I'd join the club. I have had Czech machines in the past, old CZ and Jawa motorcycles, everyone laughed at them but they never let me down and to be honest I regret selling them. I hope the Skoda is as reliable. All the best