satire111

When I've had this in the past its been a bulb that the glass has gone either black or silver, not sure why the glass does this but the filament of the bulb is becoming more resistant and that's what the bulb out warning system system looks for I have often found it to be the side light bulbs or the twin filament bulbs in the rear good luck and let us know if you find the problem

P2146/008518 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) This may help, hope so

Up in smoke: the VW emissions ‘fix’ has left our car undriveable | Money | The Guardian May be worth contacting the Guardian with your problem

Picked my 66 plate Yeti up on the 21st December Got to say, as always, i am very happy with my purchase When we went to see it they placed it in the showroom as it was dark outside, took the time to show my wife everything she asked about and were, as usual non pushy at all in any way In total ive bought five second hand Skodas from them over the years and everyone of them have been totally reliable, in fact ive still got three of them. I would certainly recommend them to anyone who doesnt want to feel pressured nor just a number

I run a 2016 1.6 crd 118 bhp se business remapped to 150 bhp love every minute of driving it I do notice the torque is a lot less than my old 1.9 TDI but I just use the gear box slightly more With the lock down I havnt been driving as far and I think the 1.6 is perfect for the shorter journeys yet still great mpg especially on a longer run would certainly recommend it to anyone and at least I don't have to mess about with add blue either

2016 Superb 1.6 se business that ive just added to my Skoda stable Remapped to 151 bhp and 306 nm torque

Ive Just bought a 2016 superb 1.6 SE business Combi in silver with full leather heated front seats Full size spare wheel The infotainment system I am still learning to use lol Very happy with it in every way MPG seems fantastic I will add photo soon

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/20-million-reasons-to-celebrate/

Yes g7eor it so often is a problem with the concentric clutch that causes the pedal to stay down however in this case above it thankfully was not as drastic as that

Hi Urrell I loosened the cap myself and retightened it but less tight, while understanding what you say and agreeing I think what does happen is that the brake/ clutch fluid isn't changed as per Skoda UK advise, this vehicle had been regularly serviced outside the Skoda network the brake fluid, being hydroscopic absorbs the moister in the air the water itself boils at times when under heavy breaking etc the expansion of the air in the fluid and then the cooling and contraction and re absorption then causes the vacuum effect the blocking of the vent could well be caused by the non renewal of the fluid letting debris and light rust contaminate the system I have seen this very thing happen in Vauxhall corsa and a proton all with shared master cylinder fluid and fluid that hadnt been changed regularly I just hope it would help someone on here not get stung for a new clutch when a simple fix would suffice maybe I should amend my advice to add that a fluid change and vent check would be in order

2011 Yeti 1.2 tsi petrol engine 6 speed manual gearbox 90,000 miles The clutch pedal went down as normal to engage reverse gear but the gear was very difficult to engage, when first gear was tried the clutch peddle went to the floor and would not return The problem was not a failed clutch unit as suspected at first The clutch fluid is fed to the clutch pedal from the brake master cylinder and then activates the slave cylinder within the bell housing. The brake fluid master cylinder cap had been overtightened, a vacuum had developed as the brakes wear and the fluid lowers the clutch fluid would move as the clutch pedal was pressed but the vacuum caused the fluid, and therefore the clutch pedal, to not return, simply removing the screw cap on the master cylinder cured what was thought to be a large problem I hope this helps someone else in this group if something similar occurs on their Yeti I advise changing the brake/clutch fluid every two or three years as per Skoda uk recommendation and on the advise of another member (many thanks) check the vent on the master cylinder cap

The low pad wear sensor is completely independent from the abs system when the abs system light is on it may well be a problem with a sensor but the sensors for the abs system are on all four wheels the sensor for the front brake pad sensor is on the front left hand pad only hope this helps

My dealer only wanted £27.00 for the removal tool or £20. to remove all four locking bolts so try the dealers you may well be surprised

As I understand it, the air flow meter along with the engine e.c.u. are involved with the egr flow basically when the egr valve is opened the inlet airflow should alter and be within set parameter's that the engine e.c.u. will expect. Engine speed and engine load will also be programmed within the engine e.c.u. to start the opening of the egr I would be checking the air flow meter for cleanliness, spray it with brake cleaner if it looks sooty or dirty also can you check to see that there isn't a leak from the exhaust side along the egr pipe through the water cooled unit and up to the egr unit good luck and let us know how you get on

Did you notice this on the RossTech Notes.? It might be worth finding out if there a update from Skoda dealer for the ECM, ring the service dept and ask them, giving your VIN When found in Engine: 2.0l TFSI Check Wiring from/to the following Components and Components themselves: Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336) Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410) Check TPL 2016420 (RoW) Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update. Replace Intake Manifold Runner (V157) with updated part. Check TSB 01-08-12 or 2018402 Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update. Replace Intake Manifold Runner (V157) with updated part. Additional information may be found by searching RVU 24M2 / O3 (Exp. date November 30, 2011) or calling the VW dealer and checking the VIN. Category: Fault Codes

I replaced my standard dip beam bulbs on my FL to Osram nightbreakers too I am very pleased with them, would recommend them. I do a lot of B road night driving and find them excellent

got my rear one from this guy, spot on two pins line up perfect and sticky adhesive too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261890642251?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT