Ooopnorth
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Posts posted by Ooopnorth
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I can't find any reference in my Yeti handbook (or warranty notes) about invalidating the warranty if there's a clear (whatever that might be in depth) tread discrepancy (or mixture of tyre brands) on the vehicle. However, it seems other vehicle manufacturers have used this as a warranty claim opt out clause for transmission problems.
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John Cadogan. Rather annoyingly voiced Aussie guy, occasionally with a misogynistic line of jokes, but seems to have plenty of auto experience and insight, if you can bear to listen.! This one's on the topic at hand...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV5cwcABRD4
I was also interested to hear that, in his opinion, with manually selectable 4x4s ( i.e not auto or AWD types) the 'varying set of tyre diameters' issue is less problematic.
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11 minutes ago, Carlodiesel said:
Years back the rotation was frowned at.
The idea is, if you have a tracking or suspension fault, by rotating the wheels, the fault would not show up, but wear the tyres more quickly.
I still keep to leave the wheels where they are.
If you then have a fault, it will be seen & sorted accordingly.
For how many years have we replaced one tyre cos of punctures or tracking issues, & never had a problem.
Look at it reasonably, we have a 70mph speed limit. Most of our tyres are good for 150mph.
Yes, I can understand the logic of that too.
My previous Yeti was a 1.8 tsi 4X4 and the tyre wear, front and back, seemed pretty much equal. Perhaps I drove it with more gusto and so engaged the rear drive more! My present diesel tends to wear the front tyres relatively more than the rear, (heavier engine? More sedate demeanour in my agedness?) so I do swap front to back, but never across the vehicle. That way I end up buying a set of 4 tyres together, once, rather than two pairs, separately. It makes little difference cost-wise, but saves some time in ordering and arranging them to be fitted, waiting around at the garage, etc.. The time taken to rotate them is negligible as this takes place when I change from winters to summer and vice versa.
Thanks for all the replies to this thread and for sharing your thoughts.
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42 minutes ago, muddyboots said:
The Yeti doesn't have a centre diff, it's not a permanent 4x4...it just has a clutch (the Haldex coupling) between front and rear, which engages by varying amounts depending on the circumstances.
It will engage to a high degree when you pull away, accelerate hard, or if wheelspin is detected...the rest of the time it mostly disengages, so the front and rear are effectively disconnected and you're driving a 2wd.
So I assume that is why there is no need to match all four tyres.
It's got me thinking now though, I must check the manual for my Yeti's replacement (an A6 Allroad.....which I understand does have a centre diff, although still learning...) to see whether it does advise keeping all 4 tyres even!
That's right. And it was only when I was also considering another vehicle and not a 'soft-roader that this got me thinking too.
Without wanted to be viewed as overly obsessive on this topic (
), there was a scenario I read about on the web that seemed plausible and money saving. If you regularly and carefully incorporate the spare tyre into a 5 wheel cross vehicle rotation (and it would obviously only work for asymmetrical, non-directional tyres and when the spare is full-sized and has matching alloy or steel hubs with the other wheels) you could get aware with keeping the spare on, as per usual 5 wheel rotation, and then using the new tyre as the spare. You'd have to forgo the 5 wheel rotation at that point, for a while, as this new spare wheel would have too much tread. But with fingers crossed, and no further unrepairable punctures during the remain 'life' of the four main tyres; as soon as you eventually replaced them (with the same brand/model etc.,) you'd be back into 5 wheel rotation again and have saved having to have forked out on a set of new tyres prematurely. However, as mentioned, this doesn't work if the spare is steel and the other wheels alloys, which is usual for most cars.
I've also read about tyre "shaving', of the new tyre to match the tread on the remaining tyres, but I've never heard of that before in the UK for ordinary vehicles. Seems a bit dodgy to me!
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22 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:
I've driven various 4x4's for the last 20 years and had off-road training from Land Rover and others, although mostly driven Freelanders and Yetis.
Initial recommendation by LR was to always replace all 4 tyres on the Freelander, due to potential damage to the VCU, however this was soon altered by them to allowing the replacement on either axle in pairs, but always having the tyres with the greatest diameter on the rear axle. I certainly knew people who didn't follow that advice and ended up with big bills!
On the Yeti I have always replaced tyres in pairs and have always ensured that the rear tyres are the ones with the greatest tread, so obviously the newest.
Thanks again LLanigraham - that's helpful.
I'm contemplating buying a new(ish) Mitsubishi Shogun Sport. I've researched the car's online owner's manual and while it gives advice about regular wheel rotation (including incorporating the spare wheel in one set of particular wheel rotation patterns) it doesn't appear to specifically claim all four tyres need replacement when a new tyre is introduced into the set. Indeed, it makes no mention of this at all. However, I've read online that for most 4x4s with central locking diffs, this is the norm specified by most manufacturers (definitely for Subaru). I'll also have to scrutinise the Mitsubishi's warranty details beforehand too, for the small print! I accept that such a vehicle is never going to be frugal to own, but it's prudent to be aware of all running costs 'up-front', so as to avoid nasty surprises later. Replacement of tyres on the same axle makes understandable sense and I'm pleased LR are accepting/advocating this as permissible now.
Shogun or not, the lovely Yeti is staying with us here, hopefully for a good few more years yet!
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12 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:
Yes, replace both tyres on one axle. For no other reason than safety; do you want to be driving around with a tyre one side that is worn and potentially has less grip?
Plus of course that is what Skoda recommend.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I would definitely agree with that. I believe you have/have had 'proper' off-roaders with 'real' locking diffs, transfer boxes, etc. In a similar situation, with these vehicles, would you replace all four tyres?
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On 27/04/2020 at 22:52, bargee1759 said:
Bobbsy,
If you want to save a little cash but don't want to skimp on quality, have a look at the new Vrederstein Quatrac Pro all season. I've run a few sets of different types of Vredersteins over the years on different cars (but not on the Yeti yet) & have had Wintrac Pros on my Audi S3 this winter that have been great. As a result I'm thinking of putting Quatrac Pros on the Yeti later in the year when the current Conti Premium Contact 6 summers wear out instead of swapping wheels over for summer & winter as we haven't had much snow for the last 3 years, but I still want the better cold weather ability from the softer compounds that All season & winters have.
I'd definitely second that recommendation for Vrederstein winter tyres. They're always my 'go-to' brand, and living at 1200 feet above SL in the north Pennines, snowy and chilly weather is the norm. Sadly, I can't say the same for their summer tyres when I last tried a set a few years ago. The wore phenomenally fast.
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4 hours ago, 2stroke said:
😁 🤣
....a mechanical fault with the engine is much worse than the engine taking more oil than normal.My previous Yeti was a 1.8 tsi which I had it from nearly new, for 4 years (78,000 miles) and px it for my current Yeti. I adored that car, it drove sweetly and with gusto. Never had any problems with excessive oil burning. But! After buying it I began to hear rumours about major timing chain issues and my local independent Skoda specialist (not franchise dealer) was equally concerned. So, I had 4 years of finger crossing I could have done without and I avoided leaving it in gear with the handbrake off on the drive, which I habitually have done with all my vehicles. I'd heard that this parking practise possibly aggravated the fault. This might have been a myth, but it was one I followed - and no problems occurred. To be frank, it was a relief to trade it in, with fewer sleepless night when I eventually got rid of it
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So, you've got a puncture and it's not repairable, hence a new tyre is required.
Well, according to the Skoda Yeti manual: "When mounting new tires the tires have to be replaced axle by axle" (p150).
That is, Skoda dictates that in these circumstance buying two new tyres is required- gulp! Indeed, reading about other makes of vehicle (e.g Subaru; Mitsubishi; etc.) any AWD/4X4 car should have all four tyres replaced at the same time - yikes! Apparently, significant differences in tyre wear can screw up the car's differentials and transfer boxes/viscous couplings. Interestingly, Skoda aren't claiming this for the Yeti (4X4), so perhaps the transmission system on the Yeti is more forgiving of differences in wheel diameters. All of this seems a huge expense, aside from the environmental impact. But then, perhaps, not following this advice could prove even more costly in the longer term if it leads to a shot transmission (and maybe invalidates the warranty)
Has anyone any experience of these issues and/or thoughts, opinions on the matter. I'd be interested to hear.
Thanks in advance.
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Anyone else used Skoda car insurance since this last post in 2015 and able to comment on the level of service provided following a claim?
I'm considering them as an option having discovered that most (yes, even premium companies) DO NOT provide a courtesy car if your car is stolen or is deemed a total loss. Only companies that do provide this cover (as far I can can see from a comparison website with 75 quotes) are Skoda, M&S premium (£260 including breakdown) and....(surprisingly)... Post-Office Money (Premium) (£198). The quote for Skoda was £220, compared to £290 for my current John Lewis renewal quote (which I now discover doesn't cover me if the car is stolen, etc.).
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1 hour ago, gumdrop said:
Premium fuel might help.
Many thanks for all of the replies. That's really helpful. I knew I could reply on the Briskoda community.
Re: premium fuel, I've been using Shell V-power diesel religiously, so the Yeti is truly pampered ( 😊 ) and I don't think fuel quality was an issue.
The emission system light is still lit and remains on when the engine is running, presumedly because the error is still there (i.e faulty glow plug). The AA didn't replace it yesterday as they didn't have the part. Indeed, two of the Skoda garages I rang to see if they could fix it today, claimed not to have the part in either, even if they "did that kind of work [repair] on a Saturday".
Anyway, the sun is shining (for now) and the Yeti is getting camping-ready....fingers crossed!
Thanks again.
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The emission control system light stayed on this morning, after start-up. Later in the day, Skoda Assist came to the house and diagnosed a glow-plug problem on cylinder 1. They tried to clean it, but no luck.
The dilemma is, I was planning to take the Yeti from home (NE England) to Orkney on Monday for a week's camping holiday. I phoned several local Skoda garages in the area today and they all apologised for not being able to tackle the problem (understandably) at such short notice tomorrow (Saturday).
So the question is, should I chance driving the Yeti (16 reg 2.0 Euro 6 4x4) to Orkeny or take the Fabia instead? The Yeti seems to be running fine, and being the larger vehicle is much more convenient for hauling all of the camping gear. I'm planning on arranging a garage appointment for asap when I return whatever. The Yeti has an extend Skoda warranty, and reading the small print the glow-plugs seem to be covered - I think. Chance it or not? I know I'm lucky to have a ready, if somewhat smaller, alternative.
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The main 'body' of the replacement blade was just a little too deep. While these things are sometimes expected to be a little tight, these were just not going in the blade holder without me modifying them somehow (i.e shaving some of the plastic off, which I obviously wasn't going to do).
Interestingly, when I went on Amazon and put my car reg. in and A556 S into the search bar, a pop-up menu warned that 'these will not fit your vehicle.' Glad you didn't have any issues with them.
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5 minutes ago, AGFalco said:
They ( Bosch AP 24U ) fitted my 2016 Fabia using the correct part/clip.
Still got the box in the garage.
Thanks AG Falco
They do :) Now sorted - thanks
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Cheers 'guys' that's helpful.
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Hi. I bought some BOSCH A556 S Aerotwin replacement wiper blades for my Fabia MKIII from Wiper-Blades.co.uk - they don't fit! This is despite using the website's Car Reg system to source the correct parts. In fact, even BOSCH haven't listed Fabia on the list of models on the wiper blades box.
I called Wiper-Blades who posted me some replacements (BOSCH AP 24U) - guess what? They don't fit either - grrrh. Again, BOSCH haven't listed Fabia as a Skoda model on the box either.
I emailed BOSCH UK asking for the parts number for a Skoda Fabia MKIII and they were less than helpful, simply referring me back to the vehicle manufacturer !
I'm reluctant to order the parts directly from Skoda UK due to the high comparative cost - but may be forced to if I can't source some decent quality replacements.
Never have this problem with the Yeti!
Any advice gratefully received - thanks
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You 'guys' are fabiaulous - thanks for all of the very helpful replies.
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I'm sure someone on this forum will know, but why does the keyless start SE L, without key operated doors locks, have a key blade tucked into the fob? Seems redundant?
Also, I've noticed the windscreen wipers will only lift an inch or so from the windscreen before they strike the upper edge of the bonnet. I'm guessing that's to help with aerodynamics, but is it therefore a problem when the time comes to change the blades? Certainly, there's no leaving the wipers in the fully 'up' position, when parked overnight, to avoid their freezing solid in heavy snow.
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Gorgeous pics Offski. Yes Torridon is really spectacular, especially in winter! And there's that charming little campsite at Shieldaig, with the red honest box, near the immaculate public loos with hot water and sometimes even decorated by a vase of flowers - definitely 1st World
. Enjoy your future trip.
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2 hours ago, Urrell said:
Not too much running on some of the harder Monro's
Keeps me young (erm....ish)
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2 hours ago, Offski said:
Has Scotland all of a sudden become a 3rd world nation with no Filling Station or Motor Factors North of Inverness or of Fortwilliam?
Simply Clever, If you have enough diesel in the vehicle to head to the wilds & to get back then be sure you have the ad-blue in as well.
Ever been to Sutherland mate? A couple of weeks driving around and wild camping/climbing/running there and I always make sure I carry a jerry can of spare fuel too. You'd be Simply Stupid not to. As you're asking, Scotland in MHO is definitely 1st world-class, especially compared to the now rapidly degenerating state of the Sassenach nation to it's south!
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7 hours ago, Urrell said:
As it only needs topping up a couple of times a year why bother with carrying in the car, it could sit in the garage or shed between being used.
Still trying to work out the Adblue consumption. I've owned the car less than a month and have put 2000 miles on it (now just over 4000 on the clock) and I've had to fill up already. I typically drive 15,000 to 18,000 or so miles a year so it could require refilling every quarter. As I make regular trips north to the wilder parts of Scotland to run/recce various remote Munro routes, etc. I'd rather be well prepared than sorry!
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9 hours ago, Urrell said:
I think it's accepted it has a 2 year shelf life if stored properly.
The should be storage instructions on the container.Thanks Urrell - some good info there. I've just emailed unipart-autoparts who sent me the leaking Adblue 1.5L Kemetyl bottle, to request a replacement and to complain about the damaged item. If its leaking then clearly air (and potentially other contaminates) has been reaching it for an unknown period.
The information you supplied suggests it should be ideally stored between 0 degrees and 30 degrees - temperatures easily exceeded in Yeti's boot if left out over night on the drive in winter, or if parked up on a hot day in the sunlight in summer. I guess its a matter of duration at these temperatures though, and it would be easy to insulate the container - providing it doesn't leak!!
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Thanks for all of the replies - really helpful.
Does Adblue have a 'shelf-life'? I also bought a 10L container to top-up the refill bottle, but now wonder if the 'shelf-life' is appreciatively affected if opened and some of the contents decanted. Will the remaining Adblue be usable after, say two months or so? I've noticed that the Adblue containers appear to be translucent, so presumably it doesn't degrade in light (not that I've any plans to leave it laying around on the window sill!).
), there was a scenario I read about on the web that seemed plausible and money saving. If you regularly and carefully incorporate the spare tyre into a 5 wheel cross vehicle rotation (and it would obviously only work for asymmetrical, non-directional tyres and when the spare is full-sized and has matching alloy or steel hubs with the other wheels) you could get aware with keeping the spare on, as per usual 5 wheel rotation, and then using the new tyre as the spare. You'd have to forgo the 5 wheel rotation at that point, for a while, as this new spare wheel would have too much tread. But with fingers crossed, and no further unrepairable punctures during the remain 'life' of the four main tyres; as soon as you eventually replaced them (with the same brand/model etc.,) you'd be back into 5 wheel rotation again and have saved having to have forked out on a set of new tyres prematurely. However, as mentioned, this doesn't work if the spare is steel and the other wheels alloys, which is usual for most cars.
. Enjoy your future trip.
2. 0 diesel Yeti - timing belt or chain?
in Skoda Yeti
Posted · Edited by Ooopnorth
Can anyone confirm whether a MY2016 2.0 diesel Yeti has a timing belt or chain and when this (years/mileage) needs to be replaced? On my old Yeti I could obtain this info. directly from the servicing schedule record booklet, but since all this went hi-tec I'm a bit lost! Thanks.