Fatbloke
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Posts posted by Fatbloke
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Assuming there are no assembly errors here's a guide for set up: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_180.htm
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~5% fuel improvement with a tuning box. Insurance up by £35 with Admiral for a <20% increase in power.
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There seems to have been an incredible number of news stories during this relatively mild winter that have covered roads and motorways that have become impassable. So much more than in the past too. A good number of people on this forum use winter tyres and are almost evangelistic about them and rightly so, which brings me to my point. Tyre sizes on car now are huge in comparison to a decade or more ago. Small low powered runabouts that would run on 165/70x13s are now running 195/55x15s and moderately powerful cars up to 225s on 17/18" rims (mainly in the name of fashion and one upmanship) This, coupled with all cars being generally more powerful than their predecessors and all the electronic driver aids meaning some drivers forget the skills that are needed in this weather or have never even driven a car without ABS and traction control, is the reason we, as a nation have become even more rubbish in the snow than ever before. If cars are going to be 'disabled' by big wheels and tyres in the snow, a time will come when winter tyre usage will probably find its way into legislation, which may not be a bad thing. Discuss....
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General opinion on 100w bulbs is probably not, with a canbus system and plastic lenses that will discolour in time. I don't know if anyone has, but I wouldn't. I went for a HID kit. There are lots of good threads on here covering this.
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Any difficulties in removing the lower gril pieces can be countered by warming them up with a hairdryer or hot water. This also greatly reduces the risk of snapping off tangs as the plastic is a lot more pliable and so, less brittle.
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"i do wonder whether the attempts to increase the torque output would upset the gearbox and throw it into limp home or bring up a gearbox error?"
The 1.8 TSi puts out 250nm as standard, as does the Twincharge 1.4 on the Fabia. The 7 speed DSG is used only in applications up to 250nm but mine is putting 300nm through it and some of the mapped fabias, much more, without problems. I'm sure there must be others with the 6 speed DSG that have mapped/ tuning boxed their cars well beyond original spec without issues or I'm sure it would have been posted to death on here.
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The Seat set up is very tidy but I don't think the Octavia layout would accomodate them
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The bonnet end isnt quite how I wanted it. I planned to sandwich it between 2 of those brackets but I wasn't happy that the thread length on the ball stud was a little short so used just one to brace the side that would carry the load. The inner skin of the bonnet is also incredibly thin so it still flexes quite a bit although it is only under load when the bonnet is up so I don't think it will be an issue.
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Finally got my brackets and to be honest it didn't work out quite as well as planned. Ive fitted it anyway with a view to tidying it up later. Pics:
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"Now the next thing is finding a reputable remapper that can map the car so it doesn't go way way over those paramaters and personally i feel Shark do that well"
"Im wondering if a plug in box leaves a tell tale trace on the ecu then? i.e does it show up as a fault or something."
I suspect that if the engine is running beyond the original parameters, error codes will be recorded (nothing showing by vcds on mine). With a plug in box the signals between the ECU and sensors are tweaked without altering the map/ECU in any way so the BHP/lbft gains are not huge, presumably because of this, to ensure the engine cannot run outside the limits set on the original map. With a remap, these limits can be adjusted so a better, more effective, map can be generated but equally this could enable the inexperienced mapper to run the car beyond safe limits.
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I run a TMC box on my 1.8TSi DSG (7 speed). Admittedly not the same beast in either way but I can vouch for the effectiveness and reliability of their products
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I had skoda ones on my Fabia. Occasional problems with them bouncing back on the anti pinch function but mainly very good.
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Octy cuts the throttle when you touch the brake so you can't left foot brake or dry the brakes after going through water.
The brakes have a wiping function that regularly 'dabs' the pads onto the disc when you have your wipers on, effectively keeping your brakes dry automatically
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Trev2, a tip for stuck wheels. Back out the wheel bolts ~5mm and lower the car off the jack. This should free them, if not, rock it. Works every time and no risk of rim damage.
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To return to the original point, all my previous cars could sound the horn with the ignition off and flash the high beam. It has saved me getting reversed into while sat in the car in the past. It has crossed my mind as to whether it can be activated with vcds
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Having got the strut and ball studs I want to reinforce the bonnet mount and use a 90 degree bracket on the wing mount. Had my brackets made up in stainless but they are at work and I'm not! Will take pics of the install when I get them
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http://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts/brackets/k9r-bracket This could be used but it is not ideal. I'm making up the brackets shortly with lower one made from min 5mm stainless so it shouldn't bend. I'll post pics when fitting
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Received the strut today and did a trial fit. The strut is ideal and has the correct force to support the bonnet. The ball studs I purchased are these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111012024248?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and is the correct thread to replace the bolt at the lower mount. However, mounting the stud in this way doesn't allow enough of an angle so I mounted the stud on a L shaped bracket with the stud horizontal. This seems to be the best set up and worked perfectly. This lower bracket does need to be quite strong though as the temporary bracket bent immediately. So to fabricating a lower bracket and upper reinforcing brackets.
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Fatbloke, what strut did you order? Same as Skuds, a MK5 golf jobby?
No I ordered this: http://www.cargasstruts.co.uk/replacement-car-gas-struts-c-1.html?Make=Audi&Model=A3&Year=2000&osCsid=3ed64ebc4273d077292b1ecd695e723b
that should fit like the milotec one or the one in the video earlier in the thread. Skuds fitment to the slam panel looks excellent tho'. If mine doesn't work out I'll be doing that instead
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PZ, have a look at this range.
http://www.sgs-engin...ball-extensions
Fatbloke, Thanks for your research, I'd thought along the same lines. Be interested in the result and your observations (with photos?)
The items are on order, I'll fit and post obs and pics as soon as. If the fit is good and it does the job I plan to reinforce the bonnet bracket quite simply by sandwiching it between 2 90degree brackets.
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Throttle pedals work on variable track resistors, some having 2 in opposites to compare the differences (like a double check)
The only thing this can do is make the ecu believe you've got the pedal down further than you actually do.
I think I will just press the pedal harder if I want to go quicker and save some dollar. It only makes you feel like there's a quicker throttle response because essentially it is electronically pressing the pedal further. Great way to make money though :-)
That was my understanding also on how they worked but it isn't what they claim now and although the pedal sends a simple voltage signal I believe the ECU then applies settings to what you are asking for in a way to ensure compliance with emissions etc (essentially, a map!). I suppose I'm thinking out loud (well, on paper, no actually on the keyboard, rambling now lol) but it wouldn't be too high tech to deliver different pedal response maps, tunable, to get the best out of your driving style, requirements etc.
In a manual car you wouldn't feel the benefit so much in that you would have a soft/med/hard pedal response which like you say you can achieve by moving the pedal further/faster etc. In a DSG (around which my thinking was based), I believe you would feel a greater benefit from this as the pedal response is definitely not linear when in conjunction with D mode. Having said that I won't be buying one anytime soon!
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Having read a few reviews and the blurb on the site it doesn't sound like a bad idea at all. The early technology was poor in that it essentially compressed the range of the pedal into shorter travel but a genuinely tuneable throttle signal sender/response sounds like a really good thing. It is effectively giving you selectable 'maps' as appear on a number of bikes these days. Not cheap though......
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I've found a bonnet strut that will give the 300mm closed length - Audi A3 97-03. It has a 200mm stroke and an extended length of 500mm. It is suitable if you want to use the same mounting points as the Milotec kit or as used in the video post but I'm uncertain about the slightly reduced bonnet angle vs using the existing stay and whether it will be strong enough to support the bonnet at this angle. Using the strut supplier listed above and getting the ball studs off e-bay the job can be done for about £25 so I suppose it isn't the end of the world if it doesn't work out, here goes.....
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I've had the Golf MKV bonnet strut fitted for the last 2.1/2 years, works a treat, always draws a comment from the Skoda techies when it goes in for a service.....I'll find some photo's cost me under £20 all in via Ebay!
Skud,
Did you mount to the existing bonnet prop hole or onto the hinges via a plate mounted ball?
Remap and subsequent fuel efficiency
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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Road tax is set for the vehicle based on the original figures