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That’s what I was asking, would it impact particular tyres to wear diffident to the others? I actually feel the car handles OK at the moment but I don’t drive it like a sports car or push to its limits, I guess my worry is, will the attempt to asjsut things open a can of worms in terms of ending not being able to get all within tolerance or a steering wheel that’s never straight.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. Is this the sort of thing that will impact tyre wear on the inside shoulders?

I had a new set of boots put on my car this week and whilst they were at it I asked them to check my cars wheel alignment to be checked. The tyres on my car have been on it for 50k miles and the outer edges on a couple look a bit more worn than the centers which I've had on past VAG cars as apparently its common. The car has alway run straight and doesn't drift when you temporarily take your hands from the wheel. After being put on the wheel aligment system the workshop guy told me all measurement were in tollerances and its not worth adjusting (pictures attached). Looking at if from a simplistic point of view things in red it would seem to me that there are two items out of tolerance but hey... I'm not an expert. Of course I could take it to another tyre place and get a second opinion but thought I would canvas it on here as you get some smart people who tend to know more than your workshop 🙂

Turning off KESSY is pointless in my experiment, having to hold the ignition key next to the start button is a waste of time.

I also saw a video on YouTube where a chap had cut the end off a bad heater matrix to show its insides. Interestingly he said when it is partially blocked you can get symptoms where for example the side vents are cooler than the air on the central console. This is just like what I’m experiencing. Looks like a new heater matrix is in order then.

Ok that’s a fair comment, it has been playing on my mind that this could still be a problem. My only issue will be finding the correct part number for the heater matrix as VW never want to tell you.

Hi all, As the colder UK weather has returned I've been faced with troubleshooting a problem in my other car (VW Golf Mk7) that shares the same engine that's in my Superb. Recently we've noticed the cabin heater when turned to full blast on hot, initially gives a belt of warm air then soon changes to luke warm. Turn it back down to the lower setting and it seems to remain hot. I did some searching through all sorts of forums and it seemed to me that the problem may be related to the heater matrix. Today I removed the two pipe connections in the engine bay that lead through to the heater matrix and began to flush it through with clean water. All that came out was a bit of red coolant, possibly a little bit of silt but was free flowing. It certainly wan't full of the crap I've seen some folks videos demonstrate. This made NO difference to the issue and the problem remains. Strangely the water level in the expansion tank did not drop at all but maybe some of the water I used to flush was still in the heater matrix. I moved onto trying to flush the coolant system as the car is 10 years old and I'm not certain it would ever have been done. I added some additive, ran it for 10 mins and removed one of the lower radiator pipes to let the fluid out. Strangely I could only get 1-2 litres out and that's it. I put some water back in and re-ran the car some more, and i could see the water was being circulated with more red coolant. I flushed that out and repeated a couple more times. For now I've refilled the system as I can't get to the bottom of this issue. The bottom radiator pipes always remain cold and i'm not sure if that is normal? The car temperature behalves normal as far as I can tell and moves religiously to 90 and stays there. I can't get the car engine hot to the point it triggers the engine fan and to be fair this has applied to all diesel engines i've owned apart from when its mid summer with high temperatures. With current 4 degrees weather I've got little chance of getting it really hot! The cambelt was changed this year along with a new water pump so i'd like to assume the water pump is OK. I did try pressing the accessible coolant pipework when the engine is running and i can squeeze them quite easily - this seems the same on the Superb when i perform the same check so assume this is normal. VCDS doesn't show any errors. Comments appreciated.

thanks for the info. i guess its one of those topics where you think at the end of the day, its not worth wasting any more brain power on and just enjoy the drive, which I can say i do very much.

yep thats the what they used to say but as some else mentioned, on these modern cars you can't quite tell what other trickery they are achieving under the bonnet.

I like the coasting feature too… funny as back in the day motoring specialists said coasting in a car uses more fuel, and it’s best to leave it in gear.

Yep same here

I’ve noticed on my Superb that when in ECO mode when I restart the car the gearbox defaults to the standard ‘D’ mode. To get the box back into ECO I need to re-select that mode. Is this a characteristic and anyone know why ECO on the DSG doesn’t stick on restarts?

Does it do with when you disengage clutch engage neutral above 50mph?

Yep I’ll give that a go. It’s been behaving my itself today. No big deal, just curious what others out there experience.

Gave it a scan, no error codes on this occasion. As I say it’s very intermittent when it occurs. Reminds me of how my automatic wing mirrors on the Mk7 golf sometimes don’t auto fold out until you fiddle the knob a few times and then they spring into life. I did have when I bought the car over a year ago as the programmable seat didn’t work, but after performing the reset procedure i fixed that and it’s worked ever since.