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dancingbear84

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Posts posted by dancingbear84

  1. The only car I have driven other than this for size was a bmw 3 series estate, but there was no rear leg room for the others, plus it’s a bmw and I like having an indicator stalk 🤣

     

    the fact that a few of you are saying 30 odd is about right makes me feel a lot better about what I’m getting.

     

    BigJohn, the simple answer is to do all of the driving yourself 🤣

     

    mine is the 1.4Tsi saloon/hatch it’s great, just hate the lack of rear visibility, I really wish the s model had parking sensors… it’s on the hit list

  2. That’s probably alright then, I live in Devon, some days my commute is about 3 or 4 miles other days it is 20 odd, but Devon miles so hilly.

     

    I appreciate that the superb is a big old barge, but at about 6’6 I need a car that I can drive comfortably. I was just surprised to see the FE so much lower than the fabia was despite the size and weight differences. I know I have a very frugal driving style so didn’t want to go trying to chase down problems that don’t exist.

     

    I have no idea about when the spark plugs were changed, that may well be a good shout. It was “serviced” by the dealer when I bought it, I doubt the sparks were done but would assume the air filter was?

     

    A while back I had a Peugeot 1.5 diesel (no turbo) that thing was amazing it took an age to get to speed, but I could hit 60+ mpg with it round Devon. Shame the rest of the car fell apart, because the engine was rock solid

    • Like 1
  3. Hi all,

    I know this is a difficult to answer question because it depends on a whole raft of external factors - driving style, terrain, length of journey etc

     

    Back in August I bought a 63 plate Superb II 1.4 s on a long motorway journey I can get about 49mpg however on the more local stuff I am struggling to get much above 30

     

    For comparison all other things being the same, commute, driving style etc my previous 1.2 Fabia SE estate was doing late 30s early 40s on shorter journeys. (Never did any longer trips in that)

     

    I wondered if that was normal, my El Cheapo OBD error reader from Aldi didn’t pull any error codes, wondering whether to get OBD Eleven to probe further, book it into a garage or do nothing. It’s costing me about £150 to do 750 miles at the minute, just wondered if anyone else was able to report their usage or suggest some things. Most others on Fuelly are diesel and as the car has always been this way since I have had it I can’t go off historical numbers

  4. Test it when you pick it up, my S trim doesn’t have them, but on my wife’s roomster the white monochrome lines appear as you get closer to the obstacle,  I think they appear from maybe 50cm and beep solidly when you get to around 5-10cm I think. She has the swing radio not the bolero though.

    Make sure you test them and mention it to the dealer if they’re not working, if you had a picture that may help too

    • Like 1
  5. That’s all you really need I reckon, as I don’t tend to go too far too often I’d probably use my mobile for GPS. If I get a reverse camera I’ll likely fit that where you have put your phone. 
     

    Just went for a spin, wasn’t able to get the steering controls working with BT 🤷 tried with hands free and premium options. I assume that is one of those things I’ll have to live with.

  6. It looks like it has previously had variable servicing, but only has about 70k on it, It'll be done annually from now on. I was only getting around 43-45 from the 1.2 Fabia so that would be an improvement to be honest.
    There is a lot of things I like, the "ambient" footwell and "cats eye lights" for a start, the boot is unbelievable in terms of space as is the rear leg room. It's a 63 plate FL 1.4 as well so probably very similar. My level of knowledge on mechanics is not that good to be honest, I know a DMF is a dual mass flywheel but couldn't tell you why that is or isn't good, the same goes for the external clutch slave cylinder  🤣

  7. Hey bigjohn, thanks for the reply, I was looking at the difference between hf and premium was to do with rsap, iOS doesn’t support that apparently. 
     

    I have a mount thing that does wireless charging, but I’m not sure I want to hang it off the air vents like I did in the fabia, so I’ll take a look.

     

    I think the S spec is surprisingly good for the base trim, although I am finding the lack of parking sensors a pain, I’m considering either upgrading the Head Unit and then wiring in a camera, or just getting a wireless camera and seeing how that goes. In an ideal world I’d do all three but that’s not really an option 

  8. Hi, I have just acquired a 63 plate Superb, which is a bit of an upgrade from the fabia I previously had. 
    It is a the “poverty spec 😉” S trim, I have paired my phone (iPhone xs) and that works great, however in order to get Bluetooth to play audio I have to initiate it from the phone first, which is no huge issue, (the fabia used a BT adaptor connected to the aux) but I can’t seem to skip to next track or anything using the steering wheel controls or the Swing radio. I have deleted the pairing on the phone and the bt kit in the MFD.

    It’s bugging me as it should be simple, if it just doesn’t work then that’s fine too, I even resorted to reading the manual and that suggested it should work. If it helps I’m using the Apple Music app.

  9. 53 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

     I earthed to the negative in the loom up near the bulb socket, originally using skotchblock supplied with the sensors, but have since stripped back the insulation and soldered the wires in as the terminals in the skotchblock appear to have corroded over time and the sensor power wires are very thin as you may have seen - this also assists when re-fitting the light as the skotchblocks are quite large for the limited space.

     Good write-up, did you take any photos to add in, and you may want to update 6 to remove NS light. As I have advised previously I did not remove my bumper so cannot comment on that part, or the 16 vs 26mm hole markings. Did you try them before beginning?  

    I did take a few pictures, but then mrs bear came to help, she borrowed my phone as she’d left hers in the house and that was the last I saw of it. I decided that I’d give it a go with the bumper off, having never seen what was behind the bumper I was concerned (unnecessarily) I’d go through something I shouldn’t. From looking at the roomster it seems like the reverse sensors may have changed in spec at some point from the 26mm to 16mm and they have both markings stamped on the inside, they are only a few cm off from each other so I don’t think it’ll matter all that much to be honest, it threw me for a bit though, but we’ll see. 
    I didn’t test it in the end, opting to fit the sensors anyway as I knew I had to do that but. Then I figured I would test before I tapped into the loom. The speaker is really loud. 
    As for point 6 you have to remove both lights if removing the bumper in order to access the T30 bolts hidden beneath them.

    Thanks for the feedback about tapping into the loom, it was about 9.30 last night when I’d got that far and I couldn’t really be bothered to go any further, I figured being tired I’d make mistakes.

  10. With regards to a guide, this is as far as I have got so far:

    1. Get yourself a t25 bit and also a t25 Allen key type thing. 
    2. remove the 3 t25 screws from the inside of the wheel arch, I found it easier to jack the car up slightly to give myself more room to manoeuvre (I didn’t have the aforementioned Allen key t25 thingy)

    3. Forcibly, but not too forcibly, pull the wheel arch liner toward the wheel, then you will see another t25 screw, pointing down into the bumper, using the t25 Allen key type thing will make this easy I had to battle with a socket and spanner and all sorts as there is not the room to manoeuvre. Much swearing ensued.

    4. Move to the other side and do the same thing

    5. Under the bumper are 3 plastic rivets, these thoroughly confused me for a while, but there is a knack, there is again a tool for the job, but if you don’t have one, and I don’t, a small flat head screwdriver under the center pin and wiggle it a bit, then use needle nose pliers to remove the pin, then use the same pliers to remove the out part. 
    Don’t try to remove both bits at the same time, trust me it won’t work!

    6. Remove the lights, this is done by unscrewing the big black bolt thing in the boot, if you’ve ever changed a bulb you’ll know what I mean. Then gently pull the light from the fittings, this is done by gently pulling the light cluster from the rear of the vehicle until the retaining pin things release.

    7.There are 2 more t30 (I think) screws holding the bumper on under the light cluster. Undo them.

    8. Gently pull the bumper from the wheel arch outward from the car, the plastic fitting will pop away, then repeat the other side. Then gently lift away from the rear of the vehicle.

    9. Have a brew

    10. On the inside of the bumper are 2 sets of markings, one had 26mm holes in the middle of a rectangle sort of thing. The other had much smaller 16mm hole markings. Both are there. I chose the 26mm size hole, I’m not sure if it was right or wrong.

    11. Drill a pilot hole from the centre of the circle to the outside of the bumper

    12. Apply tape to the front of the bumper, then use tape over the front to make sure no damage to the bumper when you drill the holes

    13. drill from the outside of the bumper to the inside using the file cutter that came in the box

    14. fit the sensors and the cables

    15. find a way to secure the cable to the rear of the bumper, adhesive mounts, duct tape, I used hot glue.

    16. There were 2 plastic grommets leading into the spare wheel well, I drilled a small 6mm hole in one and pushed all the cables through it into the boot. Then reattached the grommet

    17. Refit the bumper in the reverse way you removed it.

    18. You then need to route the cabling and remove the plastic side panel to access the electrics and stuff.

     

    - pop the rivets in the “boot lip” over the boot catch, then unscrew the nuts at the base of the boot lip, then pop it off, it is held in place with metal spring clips, I thought id broken something when I got it free, but it was ok.

    - unscrew the bolt that should be visible now under the plastic you removed, this is being done on the passenger side.

    - unscrew the luggage hook and the tie down peg thing

    - remove the plastic trim leading to the roof

    - unscrew another screw hidden by the plastic, and another one near the vent near the rear seat.

    Now gently pull the plastic trim towards the opposite side of the boot. 
     

    that’s as far as I have got for now

     

  11. So I’ve got the bumper off and fitted the sensors, I’ve identified the correct cables for the reverse light, what’s the best way to tap into them? Should I earth to the chassis or the negative cable on the loom?

  12. 1 hour ago, KeithCheetham said:

    I was not using the moulded in positions on the inside of the bumper, relying on looking at photos on Autotrader for approximate position and putting tape on the outside to mark positions which also gives a clean cut, and I realised that I had sufficient access for feeding wiring, and there was no chance of any issues damaging paintwork with it off the car. The other issue that I saw - correctly or not - was there was less chance of damaging paintwork cutting it as opposed to having the cutter coming into the paint from the plastic side. As Chickenlickin has pointed out, he already had factory sensors fitted so needed to remove the bumper take those out.

     The current appears to be very low - the actual wire in the kit is very thin almost like speaker wire - so in line with the instructions I just connected the 2 wires into the reversing light loom behind the rear light without a relay.

    If in any doubt you can plug it all together - sensors, control box and buzzer = leaving the sensors hanging to allow you to test by moving a hand towards them, and connect into the loom just to try it before cutting or even removing the bumper.

    Good plan, I hadn’t thought of connecting it in advance to test. I’ll definitely do that. 
     

    I’m planning on removing the bumper, then drilling a small pilot hole from the inside to the out, using the factory markings, then drilling the hole from the outside in. I hadn’t considered tape though, that’s another good shout.

  13. Funnily enough, I bought these sensors and plan to fit them over the next few weeks, I don't have existing sensors, I suppose I could put together a how to guide if I remember, if other people may find it useful.
    We also have a roomster with factory sensors so I can double check the positions :thumbup:

  14. Sorry I’ve only just seen this myself, I could have been a lot of help. We have both a 1.2 petrol fabia estate and a 1.6 roomster.

     

    I was dreading the fabia, having come from a 1.8 Octavia (long story involving oil consumption) but I find the 1.2 surprisingly nimble. There are things I’d like to change in time though. Like mud flaps, spare tyre, fog lights etc.

     

    is the maxidot something that can be retro fitted, I’d really like to do that if it were possible, but perhaps beyond my abilities.:

  15. Yeah, I am thinking of getting a remap, but first I need to save a bit of cash, we’re in the middle of a house renovation as well so I’m kind of funnelling finds into that for the next few months.

     

    I definitely need to change the mats, the ones that are in it are rubbish, they’re a cheapo generic set, they don’t fit at all well. The storage boxes under the seat is a good shout, not sure how useful they’d be but I want to have all the things, and it would make it easier to store chargers and stuff I guess. I’ll add it to the list. I went to the scrapyard to fit fog lights and a spare, but somebody had got there before be and ripped off the front bumpers from the cars that would have been suitable. still keeping an eye out for the parking sensors too 😀

  16. 6 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

     

    Thats what I use, found them a good improvement, but more so was getting the lights checked on a beam setter and setting them as high as is legal for MOT purposes.

    The guys at ECP had sold my Philips bulbs to another customer despite me reserving them, they gave me osram night breakers lasers instead.

     

    i have  attached a before and after of the bulbs. Taken at almost the same place at almost the same time, if I get a minute I’ll take a comparison of the roomster oem bulbs against the fabia osram night breakers

    1891EBBF-5548-43EC-A988-A35181DAA8A5.jpeg

    09143688-1FE1-46AB-A3BD-CEC6717F467E.jpeg

  17. 1 hour ago, eccleshill said:

    That is 20 hours of driving, not 20 hours from the last reset. I have a Roomster but it has the same dash as the Fabia. Those figures I quoted are from the User Manual though to be pedantic it actually resets after 19hrs 59min.


    We too have a Roomster, 20 running hours makes a lot more sense! I don’t know why that didn’t cross my mind before. Thanks for clarifying.

    I’m envious of the maxidot by the way

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