WFM

I use that company all the time, reliable, good service and decent bulbs. Can't fault them.

Just a word of caution. I had a similar experience but, when I started to dismantle stuff, it wasn't a cracked bottle, it was a clip on the feed to my headlight washers, thankfully, I was allowed to return the unused, new bottle and swap it for a small clip!

Weasley is correct, I enabled it on mine with VCDs, but a factory reset took it off and I never re-enabled it. It does suggest an electrical/control issue was the fault with the Valleyboy's car if he's lost the maxidot indicator, though.

I'd be suspicious, holding the lock section of the key down only closes the windows. Holding the open section opens them and the sunroof if you have one.

To add to the, "I'm a heated screen fan". I have had them on my last 2 cars and would now, never be without. Anyone who thinks you can do without should try living in Washington, Tyne and Wear near the river. Sometimes the frost is too thick to scrape but, the heated windscreen takes it all in its stride. I've seen it cold enough up here to refreeze the de-icer fluid.

On mine, in auto position, if the rain is bad enough to keep the wipers working all the time, my rear wiper cuts in intermittently as it does with the wipers in position 1 or 2.

I had the same thing, blasted the offending pea of gravel out with a jetwash. Sorted.

Welcome, if you have climate control it will blow both hot and cold air in order to maintain temperature. Never noticed getting hot air when set to cold on mine, I must admit.

I have a seatbelt clip lanyard with a full body harness for my Jack Russell. Bought it from the local pet store.

No Metallic Brown, No L&K?

I agree but, I assumed that this wasn't an option for the poster.

Just a bit of info'. In my previous car, a 2010 Octavia, the one with the DRL next to the fog light low down in the bumper, I tried literally every bulb I could on the market that, "Guaranteed" no bulb warnings and the only ones that didn't eventually fail were cheapos from an online bulb site. They were still in the car when I sold it. I eventually found some sidelight LEDs that worked and when my friend, who had the identical car to mine tried them he got a bulb warning? I've also tried the working sidelight LEDs in a pre-facelift Yeti and they gave a bulb warning. The full units for number plate lights worked in my Octavia for a while but then I got a warning and they were £30. I am reliably informed that bulbs with resistors work but that kind of defeats the object of getting low voltage bulbs and the resistors get stupid hot so they could cause a fire. In conclusion, it is my belief that you need to hunt around until you find some that suit your car because it is no guarantee that they will work in yours even if they work in another.

The fuse in my Yeti for the front and rear 12v outlets is a 20 amp. Fuse 30 IIRC.

A mate of mine did it a couple of years ago, he got a firm to move it and they charged about £350 if my memory serves. I'm with Ryeman though, day off work and a nice 200 miler to get used to my new car. Lovely.

The "normal" bulb for high beam is not just because they take a long time to fire, it is to stop the strain on the xenon bulbs and the ballast which are both expensive pieces of kit that require high voltages to fire up. Flashing xenons from off would likely waste the bulbs and ballasts in a very short time. The H7s do the flash when the lights are off and the H7s and xenons flash when the lights are on.