Looking to start upgrading the speakers in my vRS.

First off, im going for an amp and 6x9's

Found a nice set of Vibe ones, 400w max, 135w RMS

So, for an amp, what W rating will I need? Do I need one with similar power as the speakers?

Say no to 6x9s!

If Hitler had speakers in his Volksdashaundwerkenwagen, he would have had 6x9s... they are that evil!

Start off with a sub and an amp. I'm assuming you've already got an uprated HU. Avoid 6x9's as they give poor sound quality. After sub and amp, get some componants. Sorted.

Looking to start upgrading the speakers in my vRS.

First off, im going for an amp and 6x9's

Found a nice set of Vibe ones, 400w max, 135w RMS

So, for an amp, what W rating will I need? Do I need one with similar power as the speakers?

If you can mount 2 separate ways, the sound will be better than the 6x9

If the speakers have 135W RMS, you must search for an amplifier that has at least 135W RMS per channel (the better the more power, to avoid distorsion)

The impedance of the speakers must be the same than amplifier's impedance

Sorry for my english

I need my boot so a sub is out of the question, unfortunately

I was hoping to run it from the standard skoda H/U to eventually run a cd changer, is that possible?

If 6x9's are rubbish, what is recommended? Iv fitted a few sets into mates cars, and they have sounded pretty good...

Components with a sub. If you want half decent sound, that's the only way to do it. And you'll need an upgraded HU.

with a signal converter (it converts high signal of the H/U output into low signal output to plug into the amplifier, but there are amplifiers that have high signal inputs) you don't have to change the H/U

There's nothing wrong with 6x9's. Decent ones can sound fantastic when installed in the right location or used as 'rear fill'. However a lot of people add 6x9's in the back and do not upgrade the front speakers, which messes up the sound. Components are preferred as you can mount the woofer and tweeter seperately, meaning you can aim them and have them at different heights etc.

Now that's cleared up, you want to upgrade the front speakers first as thats where you want most if not all of the sound to come from. Unfortunately doing this and having them amped from an amp in the boot is a right pain. Hence why many people just install 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf. Unfortunately this drages the soundstage to the rear of the car. If you have a Fabia, then you can fit 6.5" woofers in the stock location in the front doors and replace the origional tweeters on the top of the doors too.

As for the power rating question, match the RMS ratings as close as you can. But bear in mind it is best to have an amplifier that you can run at a reasonable level and not stress, than have an underpowered amp and run it to the max which will induce distortion and possibly clipping. One more thing, component speakers have crossovers included that use up a lot of power themselves. Therefore if you have 200 watt RMS components at 4 ohms, then you want a two channel amp that is rated at at least 2x 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms, or a 4 channel amp that can be bridged to give 2 x 250 watt RMS at 4ohms.

OK, decided im going to do the front first, then the rears later.

Going to go for these: Car Audio Direct - FLI Audio Integrator COMP6 - Speakers

Only 48mm deep

Now, how easy is it to feed some new wires through into the doors from the amp. Or can i cheat and just join the wires behind the door pillars? I know its not the best way to do it, but seems a lot easier...

I 'think' when my speakers were being installed, the speaker cables were run down the drivers side of the car and joined onto the speaker wiring behind the dash. This meant keeping some of the stock cabling in the doors but I didn't feel this would be too much of a problem.

One more thing, if your going to go for components in the front, you may not need an adaptor for the speakers to fit in the doors. What we did was to cut out the cone part of the origional speaker, leaving the plastic surround in place. Then mount the new speaker over the plastic surround. This meant there was plenty fo clearance left behind the speaker for the window mechanism, and a larger screw was used on the botton of the speaker to stop the door card hitting the cone.

If you do need speaker adaptors though, let me know as I have unused ones I need to flog lol.

with a signal converter (it converts high signal of the H/U output into low signal output to plug into the amplifier, but there are amplifiers that have high signal inputs) you don't have to change the H/U

But if you're after improved sound quality then you will.

Pm on its way