Sharpy64

Ive done gearboxes on the floor before but its a right PITA, thats on the floor of my mates barn, which is set up as a workshop with lifts (sadly none were free at the time). Its not that its a really challenging job its more that gearboxes are just a terrible shape and weight to man handle, took me and two friends to get mine back in and Im pretty sure I was nearly crushed to death by it about 4 times. @Alasdair1 has covered the other main points, id just do the master cylinder for what they cost its not worth not doing it, some clutch kits do come with them included.

That does sound like an issue with the PCV. The differences are subtle but the membranes are different, the OEM one is a 2 piece the aftermarket is a one piece and just doesnt feel very "nice" hard to explain. Also the circumference of the plastic PCV "cap" differs hence why I cannot use the PCV valve I bought as its designed for an OEM rocker. I am seeing some residue and have high oil consumption so I am going to swap the rocker. I have ordered an OEM rocker cover as I prefer genuine stuff for things like this as I tend to find aftermarket parts are just not as good or reliable. I do think I am getting blow by and I do suspect its the rings but I know that can be exaggerated by a PCV issue so just fixing things one at a time to see if I can get it to a reasonable level of oil loss. TBH I am looking at second hand engines and then considering stripping it right down and rebuilding it myself with all new parts, would be a good opportunity to do a bit of a horse power increase as well.

Turns out I have an aftermarket rocker cover on my car so I will end up replacing the whole cover to see if that helps. The PCV I took out was different to the OEM one and the rubber didnt feel great, it was quite stiff but was intact to hard to say if that is part of the issue or not.

It’s better but still not great, changing the PCV today to see if that helps.

I have swapped out my small non-carplay unit for the larger model you show above, from what I understand you also need the part that sits in the glove box, you cannot just swap the screen over. When I did mine I bought the screen and the glovebox unit second hand but together and it was a straight swap. You also need a different USB port if you wish make use of carplay options.

There are generally two variants, one is as described the other isnt. The one that seems the most common is like this, (would need to check model etc) Bosch | Euro Car Parts

Seen this a few times and is almost always the crank sensor, occasionally the cam sensor, Its like a hard diesel stall, properly bangs but doesn't stop, the occasional stall in traffic. For what its worth I did get one random crank code show up but wasn't permenant and then it vanished. For what they cost I would start there for this condition.

I have had a few minor issues with AD but nothing too bad if you pay for the "safe order", normally a few quid, then returns are free should you need to send stuff back, they just send you a link you print out the label, package it up and drop it off at the post office. Never had any issues in that regard. The only thing I have complained about it swapping some parts out for cheaper ones due to "availability" and not telling me and also not getting a refund for the difference but they were quick to resolve that issue as well. As noted above it is crucial to due relevant due diligence on parts and part numbers as I had an issue with the dig bone bush as there are two and I ordered the wrong one and didn't realise until it wouldn't fit in the subframe. I will note that experiences do seem to vary an awful lot.

Fitted the headlight with the new DRL parts. Looks much better now but is brighter than the other one, so I’m looking for a spare right headlight to do the same on that side.

Already swapped for Polybush versions, much nicer. I’ve had track cars with solid mounts so knew it would be bad but got them cheap so thought I’d try it. Found out why they were cheap!

My DRL kit arrived from AliExpress so using a spare headlight for cheap I first removed the lens by taking the clips off and then warming the sealant using a hairdryer, Then removed the 100 screws and the plastic strip, which is clipped in place, I also removed the LED module, you can see of the old strip the melting that had caused the yellowing, Using the reverse of taking it apart put it back together and tested it, Good result, just need to clean the inside of the light and refit the lens with some new butyl seal which will involve baking the light in the oven once the seal is in place then squeezing the lens back on and refitting the clips. A small but satisfying win.

Here’s my thread

I had a very similar issue on my mk3 VRs tdi, I have a whole thread on the diag and fix. I’d guess both EGR cooler and HG have failed you can test the former by buying a bypass kit of the cooler this does what it suggests and bypasses the coolant from entering the cooler. If the coolant still sropa you know it’s likely a HG issue. You can also do a sniff test on the coolant and see if you have combustion gasses in the coolant, although that could be from the cooler or the HG so all it confirms at that point is a failure. In terms of fix, id started with a cooler (I have a pretty much new Mahle one I can sell, was on my car for about 2 months). You can also pressure test the cooler once it’s off the car. My issue was a combination of cooler and HG, the latter becoming much more obvious after replacing the cooler as I think pressure was escaping from the cooler and when it couldn’t do that it escaped from my expansion tank. HG job is pretty involved, you’ll need to get the head pressure tested as well just to be sure it’s not cracked and then about £900 worth of seals and gaskets etc. it’s a good 10 to 14 hrs of work so if you’re not going it yourself it’ll be over £2k for a HG job alone, but there’s other items worth doing while you’re in there.

Forgot to add that but, yes, I did the same on mine, although the original was still in pretty good Knick at 140k.

Does it have a physical "knob" for the power / volume? If so try a hard reset by turning on the ignition and then holding down the power button for c 10seconds the unit should reboot.