My vrs tdi developed a stutter/ hesistancy when re applying the throttle after a few seconds on over run, this first appeared at 16k miles then gradually got worse and worse.After a few moments of stuttering(a bit like clearing the plugs on a older petrol engine ) it was fine . The air cleaner was quite dirty but I have seen a lot worse,but on changing it for a new one the problem has disappeared. The car has not even had its first service, and skoda say replacement at 60k kilometers!Fuel consumption improved by a couple of mpg as well , so its a false economy to wait so long before changing .

My vrs tdi developed a stutter/ hesistancy when re applying the throttle after a few seconds on over run, this first appeared at 16k miles then gradually got worse and worse.After a few moments of stuttering(a bit like clearing the plugs on a older petrol engine ) it was fine . The air cleaner was quite dirty but I have seen a lot worse,but on changing it for a new one the problem has disappeared. The car has not even had its first service, and skoda say replacement at 60k kilometers!Fuel consumption improved by a couple of mpg as well , so its a false economy to wait so long before changing .

Totally agree; I have a K&N 57i intake with conical filter, which I clean every 5 -7,000 miles; you'd be surprise at the amount of dirt that comes out.

That reminds me; mine's been stuttering a touch recently, it is 5,000 miles since I last cleaned it and with the summer there is always more dust & dirt floating around in the air.

Note to self; Clean Air Filter this weekend.

It certainly makes sense to me,

clean air filter = more clean air flow = better engine response

I agree 5K miles is about right to replace or clean

I had the Pipercross one in my PD 140 (cheaper than K&N)

straight replacement for the dealer one

I agree 5K miles is about right to replace or clean

I had the Pipercross one in my PD 140 (cheaper than K&N)

straight replacement for the dealer one

So when are you getting one for your CR TDi?

I have spent a good amount of time looking at how long these things last between a few cars and I'd suggest a 10-15k change interval.

It's easy to do and if you are not into DIYing anything then it will still be ok, just not optimal to get it changed every variable service.

Past about 20k things get much dirtier and you start to lose MPG quite noticeably and by 40k the thing is usually solid with dirt and causing a lot more smoke and decreasing MPG by 2-3mpg or possibly more.

So when are you getting one for your CR TDi?

LOL just got to check it will fit

LOL just got to check it will fit

Can't imagine its any different to the other 2.0L TDIs that all use the same filter.

The K&N takes air from in the engine bay when you're not moving so the intake temps will go up.

Why not just change the OEM one every 10k as you are supposed to clean the K&N every 5-10k anyway. That takes cold air from outside of the car as it is and if kept clean just as good as the K&N.

It's been proven a fair few times that taking a stock airbox and replacing it with a K&N or similar intake can actually reduce the power on some cars.

Added advantage is that they are not going to kick off if you have any warranty claims either if the standard air box is there.

Edited 1 August, 200817 yr by cheezemonkhai

Take one K&N 57i intake kit, some judicious use of the OE intake trunking and Heath Robinson use of correx to provide some ducting/heat shielding and .....

hey presto, pretty useful amount of cold air and about an extra 10bhp (rolling road proven) .....

Changed mine today as I too was getting the stuttering when reapplying throttle. Its done 32K and was filthy !! Got a new one from Andrew Page for £8.36 and now runs as it did when I first got it. Winner !!

At more than 18K km on the clock, I decided to give a look at the filter since I feeled the car a bit rough and "sputtering" (pardon for my poor English).

After unscrewing the 8 (eight) screws - really uncomfortable, I must say - I extracted a really ugly dirty filter!

So, I took it home and gave it a quick clean with a broom and a vacuum cleaner. When mounting it back, I saw a sort of plastic grill aimed - I think - at blocking bigger pieces from hurting the filter :confused:, anyway creating more resistance in air flow. I removed it and placed in the boot

Car seems smoother, anyway

When mounting it back, I saw a sort of plastic grill aimed - I think - at blocking bigger pieces from hurting the filter :confused:, anyway creating more resistance in air flow. I removed it and placed in the boot

It does a good job at stopping the odd leaf, piece of paper or similar;It won't have any effect on blocking the air to the filter.

Better to leave it in place to do its job, than have a leaf or similar stuck against the filter that WILL restrict airflow.

.... about an extra 10bhp (rolling road proven) .....

Sorry mate, but borrox.

If you have a graph before and after on the same RR on the same day I'll believe it, but I got 25bhp more than expected with a normal 10k old air filter and cheapy derv in the car on the same RR I suspect you used.

FWIW in terms of the usual filters, I'd say either change every 10-15k or if you're on a money saving exercise clean at 10k with a soft paintbrush and then change at the service.

Sorry mate, but borrox.

If you have a graph before and after on the same RR on the same day I'll believe it, but I got 25bhp more than expected with a normal 10k old air filter and cheapy derv in the car on the same RR I suspect you used.

FWIW in terms of the usual filters, I'd say either change every 10-15k or if you're on a money saving exercise clean at 10k with a soft paintbrush and then change at the service.

I was on the JKM Rolling Road back in Feb this year.

For comparison; on the same day a standard spec vRS TDI made 170bhp, a Superchipped one made 202 bhp, and mine made 190 bhp.

Given these figures I believe JKM's RR to be accurate and my gains (to 190bhp) to be accurate too. I put, approximately, half my gain to the K&N 57i filter and the other half to using Shell VPower with Millers Dieselsprot 4.

It does a good job at stopping the odd leaf, piece of paper or similar;It won't have any effect on blocking the air to the filter.

Better to leave it in place to do its job, than have a leaf or similar stuck against the filter that WILL restrict airflow.

Perhaps it's better to keep it, even if it will someway break the air flux.

Anyway the standard intake, although helped by the front air duct, is less than ideal. I seem to remember that behind the duct there is not a closed conduct but a lot of room through which the engine can suck warm air. The following shaped plastic tube is a "U" type, so we have pressure losses. Then we have another 90° bend to the airbox... Bah, I can't see the logic behind all this bends, aside from cost containing and easiness of manufacturing...

I'm actually considering two choices:

- get a CAI (like a pipercross viper or similar);

- completely redoing the air duct to the standard airbox, fitted with a panel filter;

- anybody yet tried a multiduct (or pipe) approach to our octy2, similar to the 3pipe mod for Vectras?

Kind regards,

My Heath Robinson mod (see pic in #10 above) to the ducting includes sealing the inlet to divert all the ram air (cold) into the U shaped tube that then vents into the area below the filter, and boards to keep out warm air from the engine. It works for me.

As a followup, after a diy quick cleaning of the air filter the fuel consumption dropped consistently. I averaged a nice 5.7lt/100Km on last around 280Km trip back from vacancies.

BTW, car has around 19.500 Km and she needed another 1lt oil top up (Mobil1 0w-40, supersynth).

P.S.: Is there any hint on how to detach the plastic engine cover on the Octy2?

Had a look at mine over the w/e. Impossible to clean the air filter though, because the paper pleats are stuck together by two strips of adhesive that run the full length of the filter. Only reason I can see for doing this is to stop owners cleaning it:thumbdwn:. Methinks I'll be buying a new filter instead, which is presumably exactly what Skoda intended...

Had a look at mine over the w/e. Impossible to clean the air filter though, because the paper pleats are stuck together by two strips of adhesive that run the full length of the filter. Only reason I can see for doing this is to stop owners cleaning it:thumbdwn:. Methinks I'll be buying a new filter instead, which is presumably exactly what Skoda intended...

Exactly! The OE paper filters are designed as disposable; they can't be cleaned.

Pipercross, Green Cotton, K&N et al are all designed to be cleanable/reusable; for like!

I was on the JKM Rolling Road back in Feb this year.

For comparison; on the same day a standard spec vRS TDI made 170bhp, a Superchipped one made 202 bhp, and mine made 190 bhp.

Given these figures I believe JKM's RR to be accurate and my gains (to 190bhp) to be accurate too. I put, approximately, half my gain to the K&N 57i filter and the other half to using Shell VPower with Millers Dieselsprot 4.

I'll put now't down to either of those.

At the previous RR a standard TDI made 165bhp running on standard fuel and a standard air filter on the same equipment.

It's all a guess anyway, but transmission and tyres will have a lot more effect than either of those two.

At the previous RR a standard TDI made 165bhp running on standard fuel and a standard air filter on the same equipment.

Close enough to 170bhp from another 'standard' car (admittedly with a replacement panel filter)

It's all a guess anyway, but transmission and tyres will have a lot more effect than either of those two.

Hmmm; so if I was running on 17s and, perhaps, the other two cars were on 18's; would that make a difference?

Close enough to 170bhp from another 'standard' car (admittedly with a replacement panel filter)Hmmm; so if I was running on 17s and, perhaps, the other two cars were on 18's; would that make a difference?

The standard car I am talking about was a PD140.

http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/Misc/Gallery/rollingroaddays/BRISKODA%2021%2007%2007/Briskoda%20Plots%2021%20July%202007/AE55.gif

No 17 and 18" wouldn't as I believe they are the same rolling radius, but flat tyres or lower pressures to gain more/less grip on the rollers, the fact that the at the flywheel power given is an "educated guess" taken from the at the wheels figure generated and depends on the transmission losses and other factors too.

I'd put a pint on the fact that if you didn't use the powersport 4 and you had a clean OEM filter in the car on a different run the difference would be less than 5bhp.

Exactly! The OE paper filters are designed as disposable; they can't be cleaned.

I'd add that even if the OEM paper filter can't be thoroughly cleaned, a good scrubbing and vacuum cleaning did really help... at least until you buy the replacement

Edited 2 September, 200817 yr by Genoa1893