Hi All

I have now sold my car but for alot less than it was worth :thumbdwn: but never mind i am now in the market for a VRS

Can anyone give me general advice for things i should be looking out for when viewing / test driving this model of Skoda?

Should i be extra wary about cars that have been remapped. I am used to modified turbo lumps having some sort of boost gauge so that you know you aren't wringing the life out of the poor thing. It seems alot of skoda just get the remap back in the post and run it (fingers crossed :confused:).

Is there anything one of these ECU readers could show me? Is it worth buying one to help buy the car? If so which one is best?

I am always overly wary when buying cars, especially when handing over hard earned cash.

Any tips welcome.

Cheers

It would be worth buying a code reader anyway especially if you're not buying a car from a dealer with a warranty. A garage will charge £60 or more just to plug it in to check the fault codes, so having a code reader (or better still Vagcom) pays for itself if things start going wrong with it.

With Vagcom you would also be able to do a boost log and if it's running more than about 10psi suspect a remap!

Check if and when the cambelt was changed and whether the waterpump was changed at the same time (and if it has a plastic or metal impellor)

Edited 3 November, 200817 yr by chicken_eyebrow

It would be worth buying a code reader anyway especially if you're not buying a car from a dealer with a warranty. A garage will charge £60 or more just to plug it in to check the fault codes, so having a code reader (or better still Vagcom) pays for itself if things start going wrong with it.

With Vagcom you would also be able to do a boost log and if it's running more than about 10psi suspect a remap!

Check if and when the cambelt was changed and whether the waterpump was changed at the same time (and if it has a plastic or metal impellor)

One of the cars i am loking at is remapped. What would be a safe boost pressure with a remap?

Are there common problems that can occur with remapped cars?

Cheers

if its been mapped then how hard has it been driven? have you considered a 4x4? they are not normally abused as much as the VRS's but a remapped 4x4 is the same as a remapped VRS, they are a "little bit" higher than the vrs but the rear end is independant with ARB and the 4x4 system is really good for putting the power down. The best thing is you can pick them up a lot cheaper and they are more of a sleeper

if its been mapped then how hard has it been driven? have you considered a 4x4? they are not normally abused as much as the VRS's but a remapped 4x4 is the same as a remapped VRS, they are a "little bit" higher than the vrs but the rear end is independant with ARB and the 4x4 system is really good for putting the power down. The best thing is you can pick them up a lot cheaper and they are more of a sleeper

I have to admit I have considered one of these as a project due to the prices they are fetching now but will finish spending on the vrs first

Its a solid car, look for the usual FSH, cambelt change, decent tread on tires (even wear).

No black/blue smoke, no vibration under breaking etc etc

Only issue I am aware of is the creaking front arb bushes which is relatively cheap and easy to correct.

Best car I have owned and driven cannot go wrong imo.

Hi All

I have now sold my car but for alot less than it was worth :thumbdwn: but never mind i am now in the market for a VRS

Can anyone give me general advice for things i should be looking out for when viewing / test driving this model of Skoda?

Should i be extra wary about cars that have been remapped. I am used to modified turbo lumps having some sort of boost gauge so that you know you aren't wringing the life out of the poor thing. It seems alot of skoda just get the remap back in the post and run it (fingers crossed :confused:).

Is there anything one of these ECU readers could show me? Is it worth buying one to help buy the car? If so which one is best?

I am always overly wary when buying cars, especially when handing over hard earned cash.

Any tips welcome.

Cheers

You will have actually sold it for what it WAS worth but not as much as you would have liked to get for it. Sign of the times I'm afraid

Its a solid car, look for the usual FSH, cambelt change, decent tread on tires (even wear).

No black/blue smoke, no vibration under breaking etc etc

Only issue I am aware of is the creaking front arb bushes which is relatively cheap and easy to correct.

Best car I have owned and driven cannot go wrong imo.

What about the hesitation after remap issue. Is this a common occurance (sp!) or something which is pretty rare

What about the hesitation after remap issue. Is this a common occurance (sp!) or something which is pretty rare

It depends on the car, some take to it, some don't. It can be a bit of a nightmare trying to find the cause of the problem, it's very trial and error.

Safe boost pressure on a remap is about 14-15psi, some of the remaps go to 17psi but much more than that is risky to say the least.

APR stage 1 goes to 17psi

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