Hi all, I need to advance the pump timing on my Octy. Which direction do I need to move the pump ? Any idea how far I need to move it ?

Thanks for help,

Baz.

Do you actually move the pump? Most models have three 13mm bolts and you move the pulley on the pump.

how hard is it to access the pump, how much time does it take, i think mine is a bit out as starting up when its cold (0 degrees etc) is a little laboured, though always fires.

if i asked a mechanic to change it, what would the damage be?

Needs to be checked with VAGCOM.

I adjusted my old Astra with a Bosch VE pump by loosening the three bolts that hold the two parts of the pulley together with a 13mm spanner. Special tools for locating the correct flywheel position, and a dial gauge to check the correct amount of lift are required. The correct timing on the Astra was 0.8mm ± 0.1mm with the marks lined up. It should be noted that the tiniest amount of movement of the pulley will make a big difference to the timing, and therefore running of the engine. So it's not wise to play with it if you don't have the right equipment. To guess isn't a good idea.

On the TDi I believe the method of adjustment is much the same, but as has already been mentioned you will need a timing checking tool such as VAGCOM or other software to determine the correct setting electronically rather than mechanically.......

No DTI gauge required on the Octavia, it can be done dynamically with VAGCOM.

Don't try and adjust it so it is on the blue line. As long as the timing is between the red and green lines in BASIC mode, the ECU can adjust the timing dynamically.

You want to adjust the timing so that it is advanced (ideally just inside the green line) as the timing retards as the belt ages.

This adjustment wasn't too bad, but the timing is very sensistive, I barely moved it at all. Probably about 1mm max. Moving intercooler pipe took the most time.

Anyway hopefully this will sort my cold start issues.:confused:

Baz

I'd be very interested to know if it does. Please post back when you know for sure......

Rail road, I think it has. Monday it is was 4.5c started immediately, no smoke, no fuss. Today was 0c, with a frost, had to scrape the windscreen. It had sat from 5pm till 7:15AM. Again started immediatley, no smoke, this time the glow plugs we're on a little longer (I'm going by the light).

Prior to setting the timing I'd replaced all four glow plugs, this did improve the cold start, but only slightly. I did check the relay/wiring loom.

Double pluggin, it would start immediatley, which is why I thought is was electrial related.:confused:

Baz.

how long did it take to do the pump timing adjustment? ie. total time from bonnet open to bonnet closed again?

About 2 hrs, I took my time. Like I said earlier, getting the intercooler pipe back on (near the front headlight) took most of the time. Remember to get the engine up to temp first. 2 hrs well spent I reckon. Should extend the life of the bat/alt/starter

Baz

I had the same poor starting issue with mine, not helped by running on pure biodiesel.

The timing with VAGCOM was so retarded it was almost out of limits. When I put a new belt on I set it just below the green line and it starts like a dream now whatever the temp.

Mine starts from cold with a gentle misfire and a bit of white smoke for a second or so. I adjusted the pump timing this afternoon. I found that I could just get the inter-cooler pipe out of the way enough without actually removing it, if I loosened the fuel filter clamp and lifted the filter slightly. After removing the top part of the timing cover I loosened the three screws on the pump pulley and gently tapped one of the screws to move the pump in the normal direction of rotation. I only moved it about 0.5mm. I had the timing checked about three weeks ago, and it was shown to be on the retarded side of normal. I don't have VAGCOM or equivalent so I had to guess. The whole job took no more than 15 minutes. What I don't know is whether or not it'll make any difference without the means of putting the ECU into BASIC mode. It may be that any adjustment I make will just be overridden by the ECU in this case. Maybe someone could tell me.

I went for a 25 mile drive afterwards and the MIL lamp didn't come on so I'm hoping I'm not too far wrong, but tomorrow morning will tell me a lot more if it starts easier and doesn't smoke........

Edited 31 January, 200917 yr by Railroad

Just had the timing checked on my car, it's marginally worse than baz_m's to start with, it only just made it onto the graph. I think that explains the poor starting.

Which way do you have to turn the pulley to advance the timing? By the looks of it mine may be at one end of the adjustment and would only go clockwise (viewed from the drivers side). Do you turn the pulley or are you actually turning the pump as the pulley is held still by the belt?

Which way do you have to turn the pulley to advance the timing? By the looks of it mine may be at one end of the adjustment and would only go clockwise (viewed from the drivers side). Do you turn the pulley or are you actually turning the pump as the pulley is held still by the belt?

Mark the position of the screw heads relative to the pulley before you start. Loosen the three M8 screws on the pump pulley very slightly so that they're only just gripping with a 13mm socket. Using a hammer and a suitable drift very gently tap one of the screw heads clockwise (the same direction as engine rotation) to advance the timing. Move the pump anti-clockwise (against direction of rotation to retard).

The hammer and drift method will allow you to make tiny adjustments at a time, which is exactly what you want to be doing. If you slacken the screws too much the pump will move by itself, and then it'll be difficult to see how far you've gone.

Remember that a tiny adjustment will make a massive difference to the timing, so little is better.....

Thanks for that, though I have a nasty feeling there is no room left to move the pump clockwise. I'll have to have a better look tomorrow. With luck there will be a little adjustment left.

hi All - i have Skoda Octavia Mk2 which has UDS ECM and i do not think i can be able to set the timing with VCDS. My question how to i measure the existing injection timing ? is it possible by VCDS or mechanically? i wanted to check because since i replaced the timing belt, there is black smoke coming out of exhausts which is replaced by the SKODA ASP. i wanted to check the timing and ensure both cam timing synchronize with crank timing and injection timing. i have the injection timing checking tool with adapters. can you please help