ok, i've dealt with point distributors, and i've dealt a little with electronic ones

my Skoda Felicia (2000 Felicia GLX, carburetor / no Catalyst) has 4 prongs sticking out on the side wall inside the dizzy, in the middle moving with the hub a 4 point star every time it passes through the prongs, it send a signal to the ignition and a spark apears...

questions regarding that are;

Should there be a gap between the star point and the prong, if yes, by how much

the prongs do not aline at the same time with the 4 points of the star (i think they should) would this be something with?

regarding the dizzy itself.

the dizzy cap is quite old ( i can tell) what are the tell signs of a dizzy cap that needs replacement and what are the side efects of a bad one.

the hub is not firm you can wiggle it to one direction, but not to the other, should it be stiff?

the reason i'm asking is cus i have the plugs (thanks to the correct heat range and the fix on the valve clearance) reading well on everything, but even thou they are gaped correctly the all have a different timing mark (on is on the apex of the ground strap, one above it, one way below it and one fuzzy)

i know it's not a big deal or something that will hinder power or FE (if it does, is not by a lot) but i was wondering since it does look a little beat up.

the dizzy cap is quite old ( i can tell) what are the tell signs of a dizzy cap that needs replacement and what are the side efects of a bad one.

the hub is not firm you can wiggle it to one direction, but not to the other, should it be stiff?

I believe the things to look for are any cracks, to check that the carbon brush thing in the middle is sprung correctly and contacts the rotor arm, and that there is no what I believe is called tracking, which I think is like black/burn marks inside the cap - which I think is usually caused by bad ignition timing.

Could the hub wiggling thing be the vacuum advance/retard mechanism or whatever it is?

I believe the things to look for are any cracks, to check that the carbon brush thing in the middle is sprung correctly and contacts the rotor arm, and that there is no what I believe is called tracking, which I think is like black/burn marks inside the cap - which I think is usually caused by bad ignition timing.

Could the hub wiggling thing be the vacuum advance/retard mechanism or whatever it is?

nop. the prongs (4) that stick out is what the vacuum advance moves, the wiggly hub i'm refering to the rotor arm it wiggles like 10 degrees to one side and 2 degrees to the other

with regards to alignment, on all-electronic dizzy/ignition engines the pickup will be approximately 60 deg btdc, so with engine at tdc, the pickup will be about 30degrees advanced from the rotor arm/cap(remember dizzy turns at half crank speed), this advance is designed to allow the electronics time to process the various signals and work out an ignition advance angle.. DO NOT alter this setting!!!

with regards to alignment, on all-electronic dizzy/ignition engines the pickup will be approximately 60 deg btdc, so with engine at tdc, the pickup will be about 30degrees advanced from the rotor arm/cap(remember dizzy turns at half crank speed), this advance is designed to allow the electronics time to process the various signals and work out an ignition advance angle.. DO NOT alter this setting!!!

nah!... i'm not talking about that... let me see if i can explain myself better;

in the middle with the rotor there is a star kinda a 4 point shuriken, on a flat magnet, on the bottom of the magnet is a plate that is conected to the vacuum advance, it has also 4 points oing up to the shuriken level, every time those points meet the shuriken the coil sends a spark, now the shuriken is ok, but the points coming up from the bottom plate are not aligned and are not gap equaly eyther,

i'm presuming that since this sends the signal to the ignition it could be a weak signal (since the magnetic fiel is not evenly broken on all 4 points). The center moves with the rotor, the 4 points coming up move with the dizzy and also with the vacuum advance i'm not thinking of changing this, just asking if all 4 points should align of if it of no consecuence, what i do know is that they should be gaped correcly and i was wondering what is the correct gap for them.

at any rate, everything else looks clean and in order, so i guess i dont need to change the dizzy cap

well, i went ahead and aligned the 4 pins to the 4 points of the star so they all pass at the same time, i have'nt yet set the gap but timing seems not to wobble and idle is much smoother, i guess it does have to do with the signal, and i bet i can get better performance from the ignition if that signal is stronger (not a idle but a shift rpm)

I'm not sure if this is of any relevance, but if there's any side play in the distributor shaft that the rotor arm or interuptor disc (the shuriken) are mounted on, you need a new distributor, because it won't ever time in properly, designed fixed air gaps will be variable...

I'm not sure if this is of any relevance, but if there's any side play in the distributor shaft that the rotor arm or interuptor disc (the shuriken) are mounted on, you need a new distributor, because it won't ever time in properly, designed fixed air gaps will be variable...

no side play, when i tighten the dizzy the rotors is more firm, and the gap i set to 0.10mm (was pretty hard to get them all like that) any way, the signal is good no wobbled on the timing and it feels smoother