'ello fellas, need some advice!

I was a bit strapped for cash last time i did my rear brakes so only replaced the pads despite the discs needing replacing. Anyhow, its that time again and i have just bought new discs and pads.

Only problem, last time it was a real nightmare removing the callipers because the discs are so lipped the pads would not slide over the edge of the disc. I ended up removing a load of paint from the callipers and most of my knuckles. Obviously the piston needs to wind back so how can i save my callipers and my knuckles this time around? :confused:

BFO screwdriver.

Lever the pads away from the discs.

HTH

BFO screwdriver.

Lever the pads away from the discs.

HTH

Thats what i did last time! Removed a fair bit of green paint in the process! I would rather not do that this time.. but i cant really think of any other way to do it!

rather than using the screwdriver as a lever, i used it as a chisel, if you drive it down between the pads and disc it should give you enough room to remove them.

it leaves a big gauge in the disc and pad, but if your replacing them who cares:thumbup:

Hammer and cold chisel to remove some of the lip, then rotate the delipped part of the disc under the caliper.

Hammer and cold chisel to remove some of the lip, then rotate the delipped part of the disc under the caliper.

Dont know if i fancy that lol.. i am gonna loose a finger! I may have to resort to that though :P

Now remind me, there are no daft tools needed on the rears other than the wind back tool? I know the front needed a 7mm allan key.. the only size i didn't have

Grind down the lip on the disc to allow the pads to slide off would be easiest

Grind down the lip on the disc to allow the pads to slide off would be easiest

Take care that no sparks touch the paintwork if you take this route....

Just hit the lip with a hammer and it should come off mostly to get the pads off. Last time I did the brakes I was levering the pad and the remianing friction material fell of giving loads of room. Was marginally concering though.

as Lex said, grind off the lip (carefully)

If you remove the brake res cap, the piston should ease back with no problem

If you remove the brake res cap, the piston should ease back with no problem

Not on the rear, the calipers have to be wound back!

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

Not on the rear, the calipers have to be wound back!

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

No, the piston still has to move, Do not get confused with the self adjuster.....

No, the piston still has to move, Do not get confused with the self adjuster.....

Ok, if you can push the rear pistons back, how does the handbrake self-adjustment work? Enlighten us all, since you clearly know something no-one else does!

Ok, if you can push the rear pistons back, how does the handbrake self-adjustment work?

Relies on a sealed system doesn't it? Which you probably won't have if you remove the brake reservoir cap...

Rob.

Relies on a sealed system doesn't it? Which you probably won't have if you remove the brake reservoir cap...

Rob.

My understanding was that the Octy, like every other car that uses the main disc calipers for a handbrake function, used a threaded insert in the piston bore and a slotted piston engaging in the pad backplate so that the piston is only free to move the fraction of a millimeter necessary for brake operation under hydraulic pressure, but can be pushed back when rotated with the brake pad removed. That's not terribly clear, but I can't find anything on the web.

This thread is getting confusing as hell!

If your talking about the rear brakes on a vRS then you don't need to file/grind/bash anything, and you wont get anywhere trying to push the pistion back with a screwdriver either (because you can't push them in). Just remove the caliper! Undo the two guide pin bolts, and slide the caliper off the pads. The rear pads just sit in the caliper carrier, so you can slide off the caliper, leaving the pads behind. Easy.

You also don't have to remove the fluid reservoir cap to move the pistons back! It's not a sealed system. If it was, then how would fluid from the reservoir ever get into the system! When your pads/discs wear down, more fluid enters the system to allow for the greater piston travel, and the only way the fluid can leave the reservoir is if air can also enter the reservoir to take it's place. So yeah you don't have to remove the cap.

Regarding pushing back the pistons, you'll need the special windback tool. This is where the Haynes manual lies! They claim you can simply screw back the piston by just turning it. Which is wrong. You need to push AND turn the piston at the same time to get it to move, hence the tool.

Hope that helped mate. I had to learn all that the hard way when I did my discs/pads! Took me a few hours to figure out how the calipers worked!!

:iagree:with bodge,i replaced my rear discs & pads 3 weeks ago,as long as you have the correct tools & know what your doing its a easy job!

Well all went well! BFO screw driver helped, but it was no where near as difficult as i remember!