My Mum's 1986 130 LSE was involved in a hit and run last year - someone struck the O/S front wheel bending the track rod and smashing the brake disk.

After having it towed (front off the ground) to a garage, I ordered up the parts they said was needed (track rod end and disks) and Mum has been using the car since then. I did notice that after the car was returned to us that the steering was a bit stiffer than before and that over unduations the car felt like it is 'steering against itself' - as if one wheel was turning inwards and the other not if you can imagine. Well, nothing is loose or rattling so it seemed safe. Now Mum is using the car much more we have in addition to the stiff steering and swerving a creaking coming up through the steering column. It sounds when the wheel is turned and sounds like a creaking ships timbers.

I looked underneath and greased the kingpins today, but the car LOOKS fine underneath, but it is obviously not right...

So, what component if damaged would make the wheel 'steer itself' over undulations and what makes the creak?

Any ideas appreciated - Mum is worried about using her car and she needs it for a long weekly journey.

Thank you for any ideas.

TH

If the car had ball joints I'd be looking at those, damaged kingpin may have the same symptoms, maybe it got slightly bent?

Also, if hit hard enough to damage the track rod end, may have damaged the steering rack (can't remember if they are rack and pinion or steering boxes on the old cars).

Sounds like the steering rack has got damaged

Check the wheel centers front to rear each side. You might need to adjust the wishbone position. Also check nothing is catching and then suspect a damaged rack. The shells bend easy with a knock, the subframe/beam could have been pulled tweaking the shell. You can compensate by resetting the wishbone position, but you need to check that the drop is the same each side too. All can be adjusted to get the car square again.

I'm thinking that the rack is damaged too.

For info, the 130s should all have rack and pinion; 105s and 120s have steering boxes.

:)If you're ever near Royston, call in and I'll take a look if you'd like.

All Estelle Two's, whichever engine was fitted came with racks, only the early Estelles had boxes.

Thank you for the ideas - I was stumped. Thank you for the offer Dave - if I am up your way I will call in and we can chat. RSIMPS - armed with that info I will take the car over to our tyre depot (who have laser alignment) and they can see if there is any offset.

It is a worry for sure - Mum is thinking the car may have an accident caused by the steering wheel coming off! Don't think that is likely but it is certainly not right...

Show her the size of the steering wheel retaining nut: That will almost certainly reassure her (not entirely rightly).

The only other thing I can think of is a sticking brake caliper.

Right, armed with all the info you shared with me I went to my tyre fitters (who know the Skoda well) and asked them to check it over. For £30 they spent nearly an hour checking and measuring. They found:

Toe in 3mm fronts (too much).

Wheel pushed back 3.5mm - caused by the suspension mounting point being a bit bent.

Stiff track rod end.

Torn steering rack gaiter.

They also said the rear wheels were off the chart concerning camber - negative naturally:rolleyes:.

So, I will be having this work done and then we will see how it goes. Before then I am after one part that I cannot seem to find (which I know to be damaged). I have asked Jorily but I think he is not around as no reply. It is the arm that connects the track rod end to the kingpin. It has a taper on one end (with a thread) and a hole for the track rod on the other. It is around 7 inches long. I am looking for one either used or new for the nearside. Does anybody know of one available?

Thanks for the help so far and thank you in advance for any leads on this part.

TH

Before then I am after one part that I cannot seem to find (which I know to be damaged). I have asked Jorily but I think he is not around as no reply. It is the arm that connects the track rod end to the kingpin. It has a taper on one end (with a thread) and a hole for the track rod on the other. It is around 7 inches long. I am looking for one either used or new for the nearside. Does anybody know of one available?

;)How many would you like? I've probably got about 6 of those [secondhand and still attatched to the kingpins at the moment].

Cheers Dave - just one would be great thank you. I was really getting worried as I just could not get hold of one.

I will PM you concerning payment - this has cheered me up no end!

TH

:)Are you at the Gaydon event on Sunday...I'll bring the part with me if so.

Thanks Dave:thumbup:. No - sadly on Sunday I have other obligations - but I am more than happy to pay for postage and paking if that is OK with you.

Cheers, Ian

:)Posted first class about an hour ago.

We are on holiday until Monday 13th July

3.5mm is nothing!

Creaking was track rod end I think. Now all the work has been done the car feels loads better - not perfect but nearly there. I have just treated it to a set of four Vredestein Sprint tyres and now the 130 is set to go anywhere.

The garage worked to set the front castor, but despite adjusting the threaded bolt that was supposed to adjust it, they report no change.

:)Did you get the steering arm OK?

Creaking was track rod end I think. Now all the work has been done the car feels loads better - not perfect but nearly there. I have just treated it to a set of four Vredestein Sprint tyres and now the 130 is set to go anywhere.

The garage worked to set the front castor, but despite adjusting the threaded bolt that was supposed to adjust it, they report no change.

That'll be 'camber', castor isn't adjustable on its owm.,although adjustments to toe-in/out and camber affect it slightly.

We talking about the front lower eccentric bolt? That's 'fine' camber adjustment ('kingpin inclination'), 'coarse' adjustment is done with the shim washers behind the pivots for the upper wishbone. Coarse is normally factory-set and doesn't need re-doing unless you rebuild the whole front axle, and the factory measuring tools assume the axle is out and on the bench !

could be the upper wishbone that is tweaked back increasing the caster. They bend easier than the lower ones in my experience. If you have a spare one try to compair it.