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Quick guide to fitting BOV/Changing DV etc.


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Hi

Thought it was a good idea to share my recent experience fitting a Forge adjustable BOV, and the procedure is exactly the same if your replacing a Diverter Valve (as they are prone to split)

I hope it comes in useful for someone.

Tools required: T25 and T27 Torx bits, 5mm Allen key (or socket)

First of all you need the car up in the air.

I didn't have the luxury of a hydraulic ramp, or even car ramps, so it was the trusty old jack for me :D

I raised the car up using the standard jack on the sill, then I used my trolley jack as a secondary back up, positioning it under the big shiny wishbone (see pic)

trolleyjackingpoint.jpg

If you have axle stands then feel free to use them, but I didn't hence the two jacks :o

Ok, now with the car raised you need to remove the sound proofing/sump guard plastic cover.

You will need a T25 Torx bit, and a T27 Torx bit

Undo the 10 T25 Torx screws (6at the sides and 4 at the front)

Undo the 3 T27 Torx screws at the back of the cover and then slide the whole plastic cover towards the rear of the car and it will come off.

Voila, you can now see the area which will be home for the next hour (or a lot less if your a fast worker :D)

Now entering from the front of the car slide under about 3 foot or so.

Looking up and towards the drivers side of the car set into the turbo casing, you will see the DV (see pic)

DV.jpg

You will need to unclip the electrical connecter and undo the 3 bolts that hold it in place (see pic, indicated by the arrows) using a 5mm allen key

DVa.jpg

The Forge instructions say to use an allen key socket, but I found a regular allen key (held by the short end) was better in the very limited space, and I used a socket extension over the short allen key end to get the required force to undo the bolts.

The bottom 2 bolts are quite easy, but the one round the back can be a PITA. Just persevere and you will be fine.

Once the 3 bolts are out, the DV simply comes off.

Then simply replace the DV if thats your objective, or fit a forge spacer/BOV and fasten up the bolts. (using the longer bolts if fitting a forge product remember :D)

Reconnect the electrical connecter, fit the sound proofing/sump guard cover and Bob's your uncle...

Job done.

It is a fairly easy job all told, but it is situated in a slightly awkward location, but Im sure you will be fine :thumbup:

I know its been covered before but I hope at least one person finds it useful, and it shows to not be afraid to have a go yourself.

If I can do it, anyone can :)

Like I say I have the BOV, and its great if you like that kind of thing, and when Im bored of sounding Chavvy :P, I can move the little slider, to closed for silent operation :thumbup:

But for now its on its loudest :P:D:D:D

Cheers

Damian

Edited by damo :-)
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Could have at least cleaned the DV before taking a pic :P:P

Good clear instructions there Damian

Should provide plenty of help for any one who is unsure

Carl:thumbup:

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i am a muppet

i decided to do this today and fit forge spacer bov

car jacked up and on 2 axle stands, all of the undertray t25 screws off then managed to strip one of the bigger t27 screws plus shear off the top of my t27 screw head. wd40 and another t27 head with no joy, the middle of the 3 of them won't budge and one of the others is stripped :(

any ideas apart from taking it to a local mechanic with a ramp and proper tools and more brute force...?

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remember lefty loosy, righty tighty :P:rofl:

on serious note if you are using the torque bits with a screwdriver try a ratchet instead. mine came off dead easy do be fair. with the exception of the 3 rear middle screws they are all screwed into plastic so should come off with a bit of shock if they are tight.

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