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octavia 2 05

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Can any one help my engine cuts out on regular basis for no aparent reason only for a split second and then restarts again? after chacking the fault code 18009 i have done the basic checks and all seams fine but the faults persists.

  • Author

yes replaced relay

spoke to the dealer and they say try replacing the injector wiring loom

yes replaced relay

spoke to the dealer and they say try replacing the injector wiring loom

Sounds like desperation to me :thumbdwn:

And I suppose that you have a wiring loom to hand to try :confused:

If it's a possible cable fault, it will more than likely be at a connector. Just try unplugging the connectors and reseating them. Check for corrosion in the plugs and sockets and possibly try cleaning them with a good quality switch cleaner. If it's a broken wire, disturbing it may make the problem permanent but at least you'll have something permanent to find.

If you've got a code reader that records live data, have it permanently connected and when it cuts out, you may see something that points you in the right direction.

I hate faults like these. There's a lot to be said for a set of points and a condensor :D

TTFN

D

  • Author

had a good look at the injector loom most of the wiring runs inside the rocker cover so all connections need to be oil tight. also checked the main plug on the side of the head, that look ok too but some time just taking it off and refitting does the trick. will let you know in a day or so ????

Fill the connector up with the grease they use for the cage mod as it seems to improve so many things on these engines :thumbup:

  • Author

looks like its back to the drawing board on this one .Fitted new injector loom and the faults still there???

Are there any trouble codes showing up ? Just because the MIL is off, doesn't mean that no faults are logged.

D

  • Author

the only fault showing up is 18009

the only fault showing up is 18009

Which seems to be the correct one :thumbdwn: Is there any freeze frame data ?

Anything at all ? As I said before, I hate these types of fault. What you want is the car to break down totally :( or be able to produce the fault at will. Does it happen at tickover, under acceleration, while cruising, inside a specific rev range, while hot, while cold ?

D

  • Author

yes all of those any time there is set no pattern to it, just at ramdom time even at speed on motorways which is handy at times like you say a total break down would give me a chance track solid faults

  • Author

Hi the fault has now settled down to once a day usually to the first trip of the day. could it be heat related ???

Could be heat related or it could be moisture somewhere. Are you losing any coolant ?

  • Author

No, not loosing any coolant

Fuel temp sensor maybe :confused: also the coolant temp sensor.Might be worth a check.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

fault still there had a trip to north wales last week and the engine cut out three time on the motorway at speed which is not good news. Every time if you resett the ignition the engine starts again, its driving me mad !!!!

When it cuts out, do you have to pull over, stop, turn the ignition off then start or is it a case of the car cuts out, slows down seriously then starts back up again when the fault clear or it cuts out, you de-clutch then release the clutch and do a bump start ?

Bet you don't do many overtakes on B roads :(

To me, it's starting to sound as if the ECU is doing a reset for some reason. Normally when a component starts to fail, the ECU compensates for it and it may go into limp mode and put the MIL on. It's unusual for a failing component to affect the system as drastically as stopping the engine and not produce any fault codes or freeze frame data. It's as if the ECU thinks it should be turned off and so it does just that.

It could be a transponder in the key causing a problem, try using the spare key and see if makes a difference.

I'd be tempted to carry my code reader with me and see if I could see anything before I tried restarting the engine.

It may that it needs taking to a dealer for them to have a go with all their whizzy stuff.

D

P.S. what were you doing at 03:51 :)

  • Author

don't have to declutch or anything like that just turn the ignition off and back on again and it all reset and carry on as normal. One dealer said over the phone it may be an injector failing but untill it does all you can do is drive it as normal if thats possible.

I wouldn't expect a single injector failing to cause the engine to stop. If they all were then yes but if one fails it will just be a power loss and rough running.

There'd probably be error codes too.

D

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Think it's time to try new injectors, anyone got any ideas were the best place is to get injectors from for a BKD engine ??

Injectors, even second hand are about £100 a pop, so I suggest you get a member on here to give your car a VAG-COM scan and have a look to see what can be found before spending money there.

It seem unusual that the injectors would cause a car to stop as opposed to run unevenly, unless they were all gone. It's worth checking the injection quantities (requested vs actual), which VAG-COM has done.

Have you checked that your altenator pully isn't sticking (There is a freewheel inside of it) and that your battery is in good condition as these will show up some very odd behaviour.

  • Author

have checked bettery and that is ok , what is the alternator pully arangement inside is it not juat a direct drive to the stator ????

If one injector is faulty, you'd probably feel rough running and would have error codes, if they were all faulty the engine would stop but I find it hard to believe that all four injectors would totally fail causing the car to stop then all start working again allowing you to restart it.

I'm pretty certain it's not the injectors. It has to be a single component that is common to all the systems, e.g. fuel pump, ECU, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor etc.

D

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