MkI Octavia PD TDi 130 Estate Mods and Stuff

[DeeDub8]

Hi Everyone

I'm browsing for info and having spent a while and a number of combinations of the key words searches I find myself confused. So I'm risking the wrath and humour of everyone by asking what are probably much answered questions.

But first my car. I've had it since new and had it remapped for *cough* economy at about 50k. Very impressed and very pleased. The only fault was a sometimes slipping clutch. Worked out that this was the *cough* extra mileage remap and me being lazy and not dropping a gear (or two) when overtaking. Some 30k later and everything is still working fine and I've improved my gear ratio selection when getting a move on.

Q1. At some stage the clutch needs changing / will wear out. What's the options for a more "robust" clutch. I noticed a Group Buy but that seemed to be geared (sorry) towards Sports & Track usage, which isn't really my style. I do get a move on when I can but that tends to be getting to Vienna by tea-time rather than thrashing down the local roads. Any suggestions.

At the last MOT at just over 80k one of the springs had broken and gone AWOL. I've read in several places about this being a common VAG problem but after 80k I wasn't to bothered. Local garage got the missing bit and all's fine now. However it prompted me to thik again about lowering the car. Not just lowering but maybe uprating the suspension setup as well. A bit less roll, a tad firmer, that kind of thing, but I still want to be able to walk to the pub when I get to Vienna.

Q2. While keeping the original wheel & tyre setup what would people go for in lowering the car. 30mm, more? I got completely lost with all the A3 bushes and anti-roll bars stuff I've read (from the Audi??) Are these required or worth doing at the same time if the cars on the ramp sort of thing.

This is where I move into more time than money area. Also handling & performance related linked is installing a Quaife LSD. I thing I'm pretty sure that I'll do this. After all if the engine is coming apart for the clutch it'd be sill / rude not to at the same time.

Q3. Any MAJOR objections or horror stories to make me decide otherwise.

I know it's an oldish and highish mileage car but I reckon that with these changes it'd keep me going for another 3 or so years. The alternative is a new(er) car and I'll no doubt go for another economy tune and that all seems too much for my piggy bank for now.

Over to you...

(I'll save the ICE questions for another time)

Edited 13 February, 2010 by DeeDub8

[Steevie Wonder]

Hi,

Clutch:

Sachs do a good uprated clutch with single mass flywheel (OEM is a heavy dual mass flywheel which can be prone to faliure!!) this will have less inertia on the engine and help with spool up/pick of the engine. CLUTCH LINK HERE This is the full kit and replaces everything! Expensive but for what you are doing it will last the car out - easy 120k + miles!

LSD:

Fitting a diff would mean opening the whole gearbox up - a MAJOR job in itself! Peloquin active toque biasing or ATB diff is identical to the Quaife look HERE for a link.

These do indeed help a lot more than you would imagine with the handling, keeping the car flat and true when accelerating hard round and out of corners.

Springs/dampers:

Uprated spring are avaliable do a search for Eibach uprated springs - these lower the car approx 30mm.

I would however advise getting a set of Weitec coilovers, these will allow you to adjust the ride height to suit your taste as well as providing a sporty yet comfortable feel.

Bushes:

I strongly advise getting the front wishbones (front and rear set on wishbone) uprated to the superpro ones Click HERE, these will tighten up the front end and make everything feel much more positive and connected. Engine dog bone bush will help with excess engine rocking and help with wheel hop when accelerating hard - this is also worth getting.

Anti roll bars:

Whiteline (22mm), Eibach (25mm) or Neuspeed (25mm or 28mm) REAR anti roll bars are probably the single best handling mod you can get I have the Eibach which is outstanding!!!! This will dial out a lot of the understeer and make the car composure feel 100 times better on the road.

DONT bother uprating the front anti roll bar (you will probably have a 23mm bar already beens that it is a diesel model)

A good compromise is standard springs/dampers with poly bushes and a rear anti roll bar - for what it sounds like you want I feel this would be a perfect set up!!!!!

Hope this is of help to you.

Steve

P.s. Get it mapped @ Jabba and get yourself around 180bhp with 300+ ft/ibs torque!

Edited 13 February, 2010 by Steevie Wonder

[DeeDub8]

Thanks Steve

A well laid out and comprehensive reply and some food for thought, especially about the Peloquin option - thanks for your effort.

I'd been reading ages last night before I posted and have just lost all morning by carrying on where I left off, so someone suggesting a list helps loads.

I have to confess that it must have taken hours before I realised that ARBs were anti roll bars I do know what anti-roll bars are though there are some other things like that out there as well. I'll keep reading though.

Looks like the bushes, bars and coils will be first on the list. The clutch still has some life in it for now.

Had a Revo remap done at Dubsport about 30k ago here in Wigan which has been problem free and gives an unexpected 10% extra on fuel as a bonus. From 460ish to easily 500+ miles to a tankful.

I'll post updates as I get the changes done, which by now surely must be wear & tear replacements Mr Insurance

Tim.

[Steevie Wonder]

I have to confess that it must have taken hours before I realised that ARBs were anti roll bars I do know what anti-roll bars are though there are some other things like that out there as well. I'll keep reading though.

You are probably talking about the strut braces (top & bottom). The top one does stuff all other than look good, the bottom brace will stop the flex (you get quite a lot!!) in the subframe, again making everything feel more direct and positive.

If you do a search on 'S3 strut braces' you'll find part numbers and fitting guides etc.

Steve