hey,

I'm having the following problems with my boot at the moment:

1. My key no longer fits all the way in the lock so it can not be used to open it.

2. The boot release lever by the drivers seat doesn't work

3. After transporting a fruit machine in the back of the car for 100 miles some of the metal on the lock appears to have bent out of place which I imagine is the reason for problem no 2.

4. I ordered an electric boot release upgrade, found somewhere to mount it etc and then realised that if the existing one doesnt work then neither will the electric one.

5. In order for the elctric system to work all the parts of the lock have to run ver smoothly and with as little effort as possible

I think i can get it to work again if somebody could supply pictures of the latch so that i can see where the metal is suposed to be and bend it back before replacing the manual system with my electric upgrade, the other option is replacing it with another one however I imagine that could be a nuisance (if this is the only option i wouldn't need the key for the lock as i can make it open from my alarm system)

Any detailed photos of felcia boot release mechanics would be greatly appreciated

Jim

A point to ponder -since the Fabia is similar ,and some versions use a cable release .My fabia only has factory manual release ,but I've got it converted using the unused parts of the LHD release system -the threaded bit takes a cycle cable end ,same thread etc ,and I've fed a short length of old cycle brake cable to a custom made holder for a door release motor .Motor is earthed at boot and power come via heavy wire from a RC unit under driver seat .The motor motor holder is held in place using the screws for the plastic cover on the rear of the boot .Only problem is that the RC unit is not supposed to like voltage spikes ,but I've made a PSU to get round that ,but being a Diesel the supply line noise won't be as bad as on a petrol -where I'd suggest some control on the supply so that volts only appear on the RC unit when the ignition is off .

Just some food for thought ,bit I can't help you ,unfortunately( at moment ,not got into the rear of my Felly yet) with photos ,as I'd suspect the layout is different.

If you get no replies in about a month -remind me and I'll try and help ,as I'll be looking to convert the Felly central locking to full remote working .

Hi Jim,

Not sure how far you've got with this, or indeed whether you can open your boot at all , but here's my take. Apologies if I'm covering things you've already done, but I might as well start from the beginning.

For the external release, if you pop the tailgate trim off and remove the black metal cover (2 small torx screws, IIRC), you'll be able to check if the external release linkage works. I don't remember the exact details off-hand but it's pretty obvious once you look at it. All the lock does is rotate the bit on the end of the button so it either connects with or misses the linkage when you push it. If the linkage is OK I'd attack the lock cylinder with copious WD40 and a lot of poking to try and free it up again.

The internal release is separate - I've taken some pictures of my estate for you:

Cable mount in normal position

Cable mount in pulled position

Release lever in normal position

Release lever in pulled position

The lever the cable pulls is attached to the other end of the release lever (pics 3&4) - you can just make out the square cutout and the lever engaged in it at the top of the first 2 pics - which triggers the release on the side of the tailgate lock itself.

Hope that helps!

Jim - took a photo of my Furby set-up -but too bright for my phone . However - the Felocia one looks sort of identical - with a used welded nut bottom left and unused top right on the first photo .,with the manual release to the bottom left ( very similar to Furby) .What I've done is to fit cycle threaded cable end to the unused nut ,add bowden cable and connect to a motor .( as in central locking motor) .I've got a keyloq secure radio device hooked into the circuit to operate motor . Power is critical -as this one needs 12+/- 1 volt ,with little spikes - something the TDi has ( with my power supply .On a petrol ,I'd be tempted to fir a circuit to shut power off till ign off ) .

Anyone want the circuits/parts - PM,and I'll oblige .Be aware that some electronics construction ability ,is required ( And ability to solder to a decent standard), as is use of a voltmeter (to ensure that output of PSU is correct). ( I could help as much as possible if any was interested) .I'm working on a PCB at present ,which would make life a lot easier .Cost of PSU components -less than £8( add on cost of enclosure, to hold PSU only ,or larger one to hold both . ) . Radio unit - £34.99/£39.99/£44.99 all Maplin prices .But for this price ,you might just look at an alarm ,with a keyfob control.

What I've done is to fit cycle threaded cable end to the unused nut ,add bowden cable and connect to a motor .( as in central locking motor) .

Not sure whether to do this on the furby or try find a motor release catch from a scrappy. I believe my alarm requires a boot switch (to bypass the alarm when the boot is opened) which the classic furby doesn't have, but the electric boot release has integrated. I have one of those push switch things but not sure if that would work well. (Sorry for posting this in Felicia forum, don't intend to detract from original post).

Edited 11 August, 201015 yr by anewman

Not sure whether to do this on the furby or try find a motor release catch from a scrappy. I believe my alarm requires a boot switch (to bypass the alarm when the boot is opened) which the classic furby doesn't have, but the electric boot release has integrated. I have one of those push switch things but not sure if that would work well. (Sorry for posting this in Felicia forum, don't intend to detract from original post).

[/qUOTE]

No worries - I put my posts up in good faith - so why not you . My solution was a simple solution to having to open the boot from the manual release on a classic Furby .If you need my circuit - PM .

Just a point of interest to add to this one - I now have in front of me a genuine Skoda remote central locking upgrade kit for a Felicia, and surprisingly the control unit supports remote boot release too! At the back of the wonderfully half-translated 'English' instructions they imply an electric release is/was available as an official accessory but don't sadly give any further information. I'd be interested to see one (and get my hands on it for gadgety completeness ), as the official remote locking kit is very neat and tidy - a nice little loom and all the proper AMP connectors, no splices in sight!

Just a point of interest to add to this one - I now have in front of me a genuine Skoda remote central locking upgrade kit for a Felicia, and surprisingly the control unit supports remote boot release too! At the back of the wonderfully half-translated 'English' instructions they imply an electric release is/was available as an official accessory but don't sadly give any further information. I'd be interested to see one (and get my hands on it for gadgety completeness ), as the official remote locking kit is very neat and tidy - a nice little loom and all the proper AMP connectors, no splices in sight!

Robin -sort of cross posting - see my reply on central locking . The 4ch remote might be of use to anewman .But even if using the three channel one - shouldn't be too much work to provide a de activate from the remote ( or a relay with a delay ,to operate boot release ,whilst original pulse switches off alarm .

I'm a little confused about the purpose of the PSU you mention VWD (probably I am being a bit thick, lol). I currently have an alarm system with a remote accessory feature (primarily intended for boot release). My route would be to either use a 12v central locking type motor, or a motorised boot release latch. I would use the switched earth provided by the alarm accessory wire to control a relay to provide power to the boot release motor. (The system has lock and unlock wires which lock when arming and unlock when disarming). [Need to start by installing the alarm, and need to plan sensors to try stop the kid's with their bouncing ball off car syndrome .]

Just a point of interest to add to this one - I now have in front of me a genuine Skoda remote central locking upgrade kit for a Felicia, and surprisingly the control unit supports remote boot release too! At the back of the wonderfully half-translated 'English' instructions they imply an electric release is/was available as an official accessory but don't sadly give any further information. I'd be interested to see one (and get my hands on it for gadgety completeness ), as the official remote locking kit is very neat and tidy - a nice little loom and all the proper AMP connectors, no splices in sight!

IIRC, listed in that optional accessories catalogue i posted a link to (in the "paint code" thread), is the optional central locking tie-in for the boot lock....gives part numbers too.

I'm a little confused about the purpose of the PSU you mention VWD (probably I am being a bit thick, lol). I currently have an alarm system with a remote accessory feature (primarily intended for boot release). My route would be to either use a 12v central locking type motor, or a motorised boot release latch. I would use the switched earth provided by the alarm accessory wire to control a relay to provide power to the boot release motor. (The system has lock and unlock wires which lock when arming and unlock when disarming). [Need to start by installing the alarm, and need to plan sensors to try stop the kid's with their bouncing ball off car syndrome .]

My unit is intended to work from a 12+/- 1v power supply, not the sort found in a car ( I had originally intended to make it such that the PSU shut down when the ignition was on to prevent any spikes damaging the radio unit -but find that on a diesel unit ,with the level of regulation it's not needed) . The boot release is done with a door release motor powered via the relay contacts on the Radio unit .