Hi Folks... its been awhile as i been busy with work on ma house...

anyways am after some advice if you can help and i would have had the ecu scanned for fault codes had my mate who has VCDS come to work today argg

anyhow, after an only moderate overtake up a dual carriageway this morning (certainly did not red line or anything) i noticed the EML intermittently flash at me.. I have checked hoses as best i can and all seem ok.. none popped off etc. I did notice what i can only describe as a bit of a burning smell when opened up the bonnet (again point to coilpack :S ?)

also then when slowing down for roundabout and pulling away in low gear, a lumpy pull away like not all spark plugs were firing or something.

The EML does go out when up into say 4th and re appears when pulling away from a junction etc.. always intermittent.

do you think its is likely to be a coil pack related issue - i have had the car about year and half with none being changed.. i dont even know if i have the later revision on there either :wonder:

am hoping to get it scanned this friday.. or with bit of luck before.. ok to drive for couple days?

cheers

lee

It could be a coil pack failure,when one of mine failed i disconected one coil at a time until the engine note didnt change(this was the faulty coil) with the new coil fitted my eml went straight out.I would recomend you replace all 4 coils at the same time,i didnt & had another fail 2 months later!

It could be a coil pack failure,when one of mine failed i disconected one coil at a time until the engine note didnt change(this was the faulty coil) with the new coil fitted my eml went straight out.I would recomend you replace all 4 coils at the same time,i didnt & had another fail 2 months later!

Ok cheers for that matey.. i was aware they are known for going

do you know of any uprated types or just stick with standard OEM.. what kind of price we talking for all 4?

and 'sods' law i was only thinking last night how i'd not had any probs with the vRS since the turbo going last october.. silly me, should have kept ma thoughts to myself

I fitted mine myself,easy job to do,i got mine from a local motor factors using our work trade account,i think it was about £25+vat each,it was cheaper than main dealer.it was last year though so prices may of changed.i dont know of any uprated ones,cant see point of fitting them if your car is standard.I wouldnt be driving it much if a coil has failed as its putting un burnt fuel through your cat. Hope you get it sorted.

a bit of a burning smell when opened up the bonnet

I'd also check the cable from the fusebox to the alternator isn't starting to melt the fusebox? Also if there are any rubber hoses in contact with hot areas (exhaust, cam cover etc)

Edited 2 August, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

right chaps.. update

at work at mo so cant get any pics of crappy samsung phone argg - why cant they use the generic mini b type of cable like nokia..

anyhow, ive checked what i presume you meant chicken.. by removing the battery cover (pics later) no signs of any type of burning there.

Fired her up... and very very lumpy idle (worse ive ever known) even whilst sec air pump calms down...

then went to rear of car.. and i would say what is deffinately unburnt fuel kind of smell.. pointing towards coil pack again maybe?

So just to re iterate i can have the engine running and pull the electric connector to test when nothin changes in engine note? But what about coil pack(numb 4 is it?) which sits under the funny shaped connector.. sorry dnt know the name for it.

i presume you cant remove that to test CP 4 ?

cheers

lee

CP4 is covered up by the vacuum reservoir which is held on by a bracket. You can unscrew the bracket (as long as you don't disconnect any hoses from the vac reservoir) and move it all out of the way if you want to remove CP4 while the engine is running.

Yep the top of the battery box was where I meant, sometimes that cable can overheat and melt stuff but from the unburnt fuel smell I would say it's more likely to be coil pack failure.

thanks a lot guys... after the expense last year of the turbo... i really didnt want to be thinking of anything too costly this time..

if only me damn mate was in today argg... by the way just what would vag com bring up as a fault code for it?

cheers.. help is much appreciated

16684 if it can't work out which cylinder is misfiring or 16685, 16686, 16687 or 16688 for misfire on cylinders 1-4

16684 if it can't work out which cylinder is misfiring or 16685, 16686, 16687 or 16688 for misfire on cylinders 1-4

OK thanks a lot for that

oh and will i get ripped off at the dealers for them... be better getting them elsewhere? How do you know which ones you actually have fitted?

i have phoned bickertons this morning just to check that my vehicle didnt get missed in the re-call.. worth a shout i suppose :p

Edited 2 August, 201015 yr by 150HP&counting

No idea what I've got on mine. I've got all the receipts of everything its ever had done (it was a lease car before I had it and had all work done at the dealership with receipts) and never seen coilpacks mentioned so I guess it's still on the original coil packs!

Got a feeling they're about £30 from a dealer? These guys do them for £20 (http://www.vwspares.co.uk/octaviaelectrical.php) but I can't vouch for the quality.

thx again mate...

think i might try the removing the electrical connector one at a time this evening... and see if i notice when things dnt sound any different.. then verify it with vag com with bit of luck..

luckily, am off tomorrow.. so ideally id like to get it swapped then... if its just the one of course, but am guessing so or id have thought i'd have had big problems

thx again mate...

think i might try the removing the electrical connector one at a time this evening... and see if i notice when things dnt sound any different.. then verify it with vag com with bit of luck..

luckily, am off tomorrow.. so ideally id like to get it swapped then... if its just the one of course, but am guessing so or id have thought i'd have had big problems

i would recomend you replace all 4 at the same time,when my 1st one failed i only replaced that one(couldnt really afford all 4 at that time) cue 2 months later leaving work in the rain,2nd coil pack failed!!! car limped back home(late for dropping missus off in town,NOT popular! so other 3 ordered & replaced! if you only replace one maybe buy another new one & keep it in the glove box so if it fails you can replace it there & then.

thx again mate...

think i might try the removing the electrical connector one at a time this evening... and see if i notice when things dnt sound any different.. then verify it with vag com with bit of luck..

luckily, am off tomorrow.. so ideally id like to get it swapped then... if its just the one of course, but am guessing so or id have thought i'd have had big problems

Rather than remove electrical connector just pull up coil pack (only needs to be slightly pulled up). from spark plug one at a time until you either notice a worse running or no difference which each coil pack removed. If you get no difference then that is the coil pack faulty.

In the 3 years I have had my motor and it is mapped I have only replaced one coil pack. I would not justify buying all 4 until you have proven each one that is defective. Some members have had more coil packs go but probably more bad luck that being caused by fitting a new one. ( a spare in the boot good idea as mentioned)There are upgraded ones that are bolted down(Hitachi) but are a extortionate price and not worth the cost unless you are running a heavy modded car.

Also one area to check is the wiring to the coil pack plugs. This wiring can get hot from the turbo and the insulation can get brittle and crack and in worse case cause arching across the cam belt cover.

I had this on mine and re insulated the wiring and also fitted a Audi TT heat shield over the wiring which is a dealer standard part on the 1.8T Audi’s

Edited 2 August, 201015 yr by Bowders1

i would recomend you replace all 4 at the same time,when my 1st one failed i only replaced that one(couldnt really afford all 4 at that time) cue 2 months later leaving work in the rain,2nd coil pack failed!!! car limped back home(late for dropping missus off in town,NOT popular! so other 3 ordered & replaced! if you only replace one maybe buy another new one & keep it in the glove box so if it fails you can replace it there & then.

yeah thx mate sounds like top advice to me and i like you, then, could do with spending as little on it at this present time...

i had a very large bill last year for £1700 in total.. so think my bankl balance is still recovering from the

Bought 4 from main dealer about 2 years ago £25+VAT each, which was cheaper than local motor factors from whom i bought 2 and they packed up within 2 months. Probably gone up since then, try your local dealer or TPS if you have one local.

hi chaps.. sorry for late reply... got the vag com and lappy from mate tonight...

albeit with a flat battery so hooked it up and did auto scan

came back with falut codes 16684 random missfire

and 16685 cylinder 1 missfire

now i'm presuming because i did the unplug each coil pack one at a time yesterday evening with engine running, that is why i have the 16684 code logged ?

so i cleared the fault codes... just put the laptop on charge.. went for a drive to re create the fault (intermittent emi light appeared after about 5 minutes driving).

So when the lappy has had time to charge for a little while, i will nip back out and re scan... so if i only get the 16685 this time.. then its coil pack 1 - the further most left when you look at it ? from the front of the engine bay - correct ? :yes:

thanks again for all the advice above - a good place to be for advice this is

It looks like 16684 is still there then :S - do i take the below that definately coil pack 1 is defective, yet could also be something else ????

cheers again for your help.... ( i presume i have done right by removing chasis number TMB etc)

VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N

Vag Tech

Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia

Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,35,46,56

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 06A 906 032 HN

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002

Coding: 11500

Shop #: WSC 80178

TMB*********** SK************

2 Faults Found:

16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0300 - 35-00 - -

16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

P0301 - 35-00 - -

Readiness: 0010 1101

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 1C0 907 379 K

Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103

Coding: 0021505

Shop #: WSC 31480

No fault code found.

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 1U1 907 044 A

Component: CLIMATRONIC C 2.0.0

Coding: 11000

Shop #: WSC 31480

2 Faults Found:

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

35-00 - -

01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)

37-00 - Faulty

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 1U0 920 911 C

Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V07

Coding: 19412

Shop #: WSC 31480

TMBER41U938694729 SKZ7Z0C1828425

1 Fault Found:

01304 - Radio

49-00 - No Communications

Address 19 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6N0 909 901

Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001

Coding: 00006

Shop #: WSC 31480

1 Fault Found:

01304 - Radio

49-00 - No Communications

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 1C0 959 799 B

Component: 3Y Komfortgerát HLO 0003

Coding: 00259

Shop #: WSC 31480

No fault code found.

End -------------------------------------------------------

Sounds like cylinder 1 definately something is wrong but the 16684 could be a misfire and it's not able to determine which cylinder, or it could be a fault with the knock sensor for cylinders 1 & 2.

I'd replace coilpack one to get rid of the 16685 error and run it again to see if you still get 16684 as well or if that gets rid of both codes

Edited 4 August, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

cheers mate, thats what i thought of doing to begin with.

And if its the 'knock sensor' - expensive and big job???

Have a look at Bodges recent post about his knock sensor.

It's not a massive job and a fairly cheap part but you just have to be careful you torque it up to the correct torque when fitting the new one.

Have a look at Bodges recent post about his knock sensor.

It's not a massive job and a fairly cheap part but you just have to be careful you torque it up to the correct torque when fitting the new one.

thx mate.. will do.

Well Bickerton skoda didnt have any coil packs in stock, so ordered one, will be here saturday morning he said. The check on the recall came back negative - apparently mine wouldnt have been recalled :/ oh and £28-60 ex VAT for anyone who's interested

so fingers crossed the coil pack change will also fix the 16684 fault too

Thank you Thank you Thank you

coil pack one changed.... Fault codes cleared... fired her up.. straight away the car felt even better than prior to the EML coming on i have to say.. felt more responsive

so took for a 10 minute drive.. engine fully upto temp... not an EML in sight Came back home, hooked upto vag com... no fault codes found - happy days

so goes to proove that sometimes extra fault codes can still be because of another one thrown up. Had a word with parts guy and he said he'd be suprised if it would be knock sensor as he'd only seen about 2 go in 14 years. Anyways am just happy i can once again have my wheels back

Oh what i have noticed is that the faulty one is a 115J series (new one 115D), and noticed the new one had like a shiny top to it compared to the ones i've got

Edited 7 August, 201015 yr by 150HP&counting

Glad to hear you have got it sorted!