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Ignition switch failure


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Recently had the problem of the car not starting unless I wiggled the key about or bump started it. Turned out to be a failed ignition switch.

It is possible to bypass this problem with a seperate push button start, but for £10 it can be fixed properly.

No need for pictures, it is all quite easy. Total time to do - 90 minutes. In the dark with only a small light. :giggle:

1) Remove the bottom from the steering column shroud. This should be held by 1 x screw and will slide backwards and off once this screw is removed.

2) Prise out the plastic disc around the ignition barrel on the dash.

3) Disconnect any wires that may be pulled during the moving of the steering column. Usually 2 x brown wires, stalk block and the airbag wire. (The airbag wire has a large connector near the back of the steering wheel and is covered by a plastic lattice sleeve. If you can get away without disconnecting the airbag wire, don't do it. It will put the airbag into fault mode and will need to be cleared using specialist VAG equipment.)

4) Now there are 4 x bolts that need to be removed in order to move the steering column. 2 are located by the wheel and 2 further down the column. Undo the furthest 2 first and recover the washers and plastic spacer. Make sure you know which way round they are assembled. There will be a1 x bolt, 1 x spring washer, 1 x large washer, 1 x machined metal insert and 1 x plastic spacer on each side of the column.

5) Then loosen the upper 2 bolts. Make sure the column is supported when you remove them, again remembering how they were assembled if they come apart. There will be 1 x bolt, 1x spring washer, 1 x washer, 1 x rubber bush on each side of the column.

6) Now you will be able to drop the column away from it's position. Remove the upper shroud. You will need to manipulate the column a bit in order to get the ignition barrel to slide out from behind the dash.

7) The ignition switch is located on the back of the barrel assembly. In order to remove it you only have to remove 2 x very small grub screws. These are located on either side of the switch assembly at 180 degrees to eachother. They can be fiddly and easy to lose, so go careful.

8) Now you can simply pull the switch out from the barrel, with the wires in place to aid reconnecting them to the new switch.

9) Swap the wires over from the old switch to the new. Slide the new switch back into the barrel, making sure that the 2 x small holes in the barrel casing line up with the 2 x small holes in the switch casing. If this is correctly done, the key slot in the switch casing will line up with the keyway of the barrel casing and you will then be able to secure the switch with the 2 x grub screws.

10) Refitting is, as they say, the reverse of removal, but remember to fit the upper shroud before refitting the column. It may be a four handed affair when replacing the column bolts, remember to put the plastic spacers for the 2 x lower bolts between the lugs on the column and the bodywork. Connect all wire/stalks. Refit the bottom shroud, sliding it forward from the footwell, making sure the rubber stalk surrounds are properly loctated in the shroud slots and secure with the 1 x scew.

Edited by myjalopy
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:thumbup:

Thank you for your useful input :happy:

What screwdriver bit is needed for the grub screws ?

I thought they might be rivets,they are so tiny..

Pleased to help Ian. This sort of DIY job might be obvious to a lot of people but equally baffling to many more. Initially I took the end off of the barrel, big mistake as the contact plates and springs that were inside flew everywhere :doh:

I used a cheap watchmakers screwdriver but a small electrical screwdriver would do. The screws are small and VERY fiddly to rethread so be careful you don't lose them.

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thx.gif

My own switch occasionally protests, so will probably have to go for the operation before long.. Guide most appreciated!

Mine protested to the point of me pushing it around a carpark to get it bump started. That's when I thought it was time to fix it. :yes:

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