I'm shocked to see the panels are rivoted on Is a shame as I used bodyline to sound deaden the area's around the woofer on my fabia. Made a nice improvement.

Really do need to get round to building a 60l box tuned to 28hz for my sub as a feel its being wasted. :(

Personally would of put the batteries in the spare wheel bay to avoid any unwanted touching and seeing as the floors not need made a false floor to hide the amps.

I did the same also regarding the speaker cable to the fronts. Saves loads of hassle and I'll doubt you'd notice a difference if you routed the cables through the doors.

Interesting info regardings the DAC on the kenwood.

Edited 24 November, 201015 yr by faboka vrs

I'm shocked to see the panels are rivoted on Is a shame as I used bodyline to sound deaden the area's around the woofer on my fabia. Made a nice improvement.

Really do need to get round to building a 60l box tuned to 28hz for my sub as a feel its being wasted. :(

Anyway nice effort. Personally would of put the batteries in the spare wheel bay to avoid any unwanted touching and screwed the amps to the back of the seats. I did the same as also regarding the speaker cable to the fronts. Saves loads of hassle and I'll doubt you'd notice a difference if you routed the cables through the doors.

Interesting info regardings the DAC on the kenwood.

28hz tuning is good for talking to whales but not much good for most music - (well unless you like SQ - but for a basshead like me i prefer mid 30s tuning)

installing the batteries in the wheel well was harder to achieve and screwing the amps to the seat back was a definite no no - this is all removable in about 30 mins with no trace left - something the boss insisted on

28hz for my SPL dyanamics 12D4 is whats recommended by the manufacture and when looking on WinISD gives a nice flat line. At the moment in a 28l sealed box it drops off too early.

Its more SQ now a days. Not 17 anymore :(

installing the batteries in the wheel well was harder to achieve and screwing the amps to the seat back was a definite no no - this is all removable in about 30 mins with no trace left - something the boss insisted on

Sorry changed my idea to a false floor I did one years back to my fabia and old clio. Left not trace behind in fact its got me thinking of doing it again to free up some boot space. Us fabia owners dont have a boot capable of living in

28hz for my SPL dyanamics 12D4 is whats recommended by the manufacture and when looking on WinISD gives a nice flat line. At the moment in a 28l sealed box it drops off too early.

Its more SQ now a days. Not 17 anymore :(

Love SPL Dynamics

im 32 - certainly old enough to know better

lol. Yeah got the 6.2's in my front doors running of an almost 20 year old goodmans amp. Can't fault either.

Edited 24 November, 201015 yr by faboka vrs

Nice find with the ebay ones, did you get them yet, and if so do they fit?

Don't know yet, they're in the post, together with some Pioneer TS-E1702is speakers

should have sound-proofed the doors when you had the door cards off

I put some sound proofing in through the speaker mounting holes, mine came in pre cut sheets from Noisekiller, approx 4"x12" panels, fitted three in each door covering the area behind the speaker. Then cut pieces to cover about half of the inner skin.

...cant easily sound proof them without rilling out ALL the inner door panel rivets - ...

Spectrum Audio Sludge

Messy but can be squidged into all manner of holes and cavities

Got the speaker mounts and plug adapters in the post today, the mounts fit OK but needed little trimming to clear the lip on the edge of the inner door skin.

I used silicone sealant between the mount and the door skin, and draught excluder between the speaker chassis and the mount. I also cut a groove in the top of the mount for the speaker wires to sit in.

Edited 29 November, 201015 yr by r6ymy

did you wait a while for the silicone to go off before mounting the speakers - the fumes given off when silicone cures can eat the surrounds on speakers?

Why is installing the amp on the backseats a no-no, or is that just personal preference? I was going to try and screw it to the back of the seats due to a lack of room to put it anywhere. idea is make a small slit in the carpet, screw through it (fold the carpet bit back) and mount the amp there. If I ever decided to take it out I could then fold the small area of carpet back & glue it in place.

Thanks for sharing all your information so freely. This thread has been a good read through.

Why is installing the amp on the backseats a no-no, or is that just personal preference? I was going to try and screw it to the back of the seats due to a lack of room to put it anywhere. idea is make a small slit in the carpet, screw through it (fold the carpet bit back) and mount the amp there. If I ever decided to take it out I could then fold the small area of carpet back & glue it in place.

For this install in a company car I didn't want to screw anything to the car permanently - Back of the seats is better than putting the amp on the sub box as I have done, that will (and did) kill amps very quickly with the level of bass im looking at

I would mount a board to the back of the amps and trim to suit then mount the amp to that - you then give yourself ease of adjustment of the amp locations if needed

Thanks for sharing all your information so freely. This thread has been a good read through.

Any time dude glad to help

Little bit of an update - I have had a system change and have gone for a bandpass design -

All done for today - got loads done

some of the wood for the build - 2 18mm sheets of MDF and about 24 cuts at B and Q luckily the guy was into car audio (I always find if you strike up a conversation about what its for they tend to care more about getting the measurements right)

Im using just PVA Glue and Turbodrive screws to hold it together

All going in here

Added some cabling to allow the 2nd battery to be hooked up (it will be going in the left hand pocket in the above pic)

The shell taking shape - the bracket is just to hold the 1st side in place (I couldnt find my right angle holders from the old street c days) it has been removed now.

The shell complete and the double thickness baffle test fitted - I will be mounting the subs arse out for the first set up so this is not being mounted until i get the subs back from am tomorrow

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_VDude_twhx4/TbGgzMzYPhI/AAAAAAAAH5Y/pvdlZfbJpHY/s800/IMG_20110422_140817.jpg

the shell in the boot

After ignoring my own advice on the last build I managed to kill the amp ( A GZNW2800xii) by mounting it to the box - this time its on the back of the seats

A tight fit but its safe and sound there

As you can see in that top pic - i have some alu foil tape to seal the box - all good bandpass systems use alu tape so why not!

and the sub baffle (almost ) in place

Subs mounted in the baffle

Bracing

Lid on and port built- the foil tape is just to hide my shocking wood work (and to smooth the air flow to)

boot lid clearance is good

looking good mate, what you planning on covering the box in?

looking good mate, what you planning on covering the box in?

This design of box takes lots and lots of tweaking

im going to get it right in MDF then transfer the measurements over to a nice stiff light birch ply box - that will then get some OEM spec carpeting

Well its been a long time since I updated this thread and a lot has changed in the system - I have replaced all four speakers front and back and have aimed for what i call and SQL system - something that will play at volume with a reasonable sound quality - and this certainly fits the bill

Kenwood DNX520VBT Headunit

Ground Zero Uranium 4125 4 channel amp

2 Pairs of GZ Hydrogen GZHF652X Coaxials

Hifonics XX Cyclops 4000wrms Sub amp

2 x DD3515 subs in a custom rear ported Box

2 x Shuriken BT100 Car Audio Batteries

Looks like the problems were down to an earth problem on the HU - I have done the old wire around the RCA plug trick and its sorted now,

Stealth Much?

Edited 22 May, 201214 yr by thejoose

good job, one issue with the factory door speaker positions, not that it's gonna matter for a bass head, is that they are firing into the arse area. i'd personally go for a 3 way components with the mid-bass driver in the door and A pillar builds for a little mid and tweeter.

does it vibrate much with not much deadening?

hope the rear windscreen doesn't shatter

Well its been another while since I did an update so here goes.

I had a little mishap at GTi International - My sub amp just died mid demo - followed by a gun fire like pop every time it turned back on - CRAP

I managed to rig my Mid amp up to run the subs for the rest of the day but considering there was less than 2 weeks to go before the Automaxx Summer Edition in Holland - i was up a creek without a paddle!

The next day after contacting The Amp Doctor the amp was packed up and sent to him for diagnosis and repair - He did a fantastic job and updated me as he worked on it but during final testing today it popped again and so he wasnt able to get it back to me before Automaxx - The prognosis was vibration damage causing the outputs to short. Cant fault Gordons work - these things happen so I am going to have to wait until the parts come in.

After a little plea on Facebook asking if anyone had a mono amp I could borrow for the weekend - Am Singh at Blade Ice replied saying I could borrow this

OUCH!! a B2 Audio Serum 7K - 8.5kwrms @ 1ohm @ 14.4v - An absolute monster - Anyone who knows Am and Blade Ice knows what a top guy he is - Big Thanks to him for trusting me with this beast - I hope to do it proud over in Holland.

I picked the amp up on my way home today and decided to get it installed.....following the little swap around I had to do at GTi International to get Some bass in place to qualify/compete the system was left looking like this

very familiar to those who know of my past systems I dont do neat very well and as this amp is too good looking to hide away I needed to sort that out a little

The grey foam in the middle is to mount the amp on to try and isolate it as much as possible - I also have 2 rubber washers at each corner for the mounting of the amp to reduce vibrations as much as possible - you can see them in this picture

It only just fits!

Dual 0 AWG inputs (Max current draw is around 750A!!!!)

I then set about tidying the wiring for the front amp (which runs both front and back speakers @ 2ohm per side)

And here is the finished article - Not EMMA standard neat but its safe and tidier than it was

With the back seat up there is plenty of clearance between all the amps an cabling as well

Thanks again to Am and fingers crossed for this weekend!

A little video taken today at Trax......

http://youtu.be/OsMSiZBifIU

that is just madness!!!

in a good way though...

Iain

Haha cheers Iain - Its the loudest Skoda in the country maybe?? it does 148.6dB

You are nuts mate - in a nice way - LOL

Not what I will be hoping to achieve with my install when I start it.

Paul

Haha good to see you on here Paul!

I managed to get the UK Title yesterday so am pretty chuffed - 9000wrms is all you need Paul - 10 times what you run!