HeLppppp my car is posessed!

[Octavianewboy]

Hi All,

I have an Octavia, 2000 GLX 1.9tdi, engine code AGR.

The last fault / post I made can be found here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/182803-strange-glowlight-and-stalling/

Now I'm in trouble

I replaced relay 109 and 103 with brand new Skoda items and left the car on the driveway for 30-40 minutes, no problems or stuttering.

Today I go out in the reasonably warm -9 temps and start the car, within 5 mins it stutters and stalls. This gets worse and I hook up VAG-COM to find the following:

Yes, I did clear all faults after replacing both relays!!

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S

Control Module Part Number: 038 906 018 GM

Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 2162

Software Coding: 00002

Work Shop Code: WSC 31480

5 Faults Found:

16989 - Internal Control Module: ROM Error

P0605 - 35-00 - -

18047 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal

P1639 - 35-00 - -

18020 - Engine Control Module Incorrectly Coded

P1612 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

01282 - Intake Manifold Flap change-over Valve (N239)

31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

17660 - Cold Start Injector (N108) Open or Short to Ground

P1252 - 35-00 - -

------------------------------------------------------------------

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S

Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia

Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,35,46,56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine

Controller: 038 906 018 GM

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 2162

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 31480

No fault code found.

Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes

Controller: 1J0 907 379 P

Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001

Coding: 03304

Shop #: WSC 31480

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments

Controller: 1U2 919 034 G

Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V22

Coding: 02440

Shop #: WSC 20038

IMMO-IDENTNR: SKZ7Z0Y0 oh no it's not!!

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 46: Central Conv.

Controller: 1J0 959 799 Q

Component: 5G Zentral-SG Komf. 0001

Coding: 04097

Shop #: WSC 31480

3 Faults Found:

00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)

25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition

00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Driver Side (Z4)

35-00 - -

00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Passenger Side (Z5)

35-00 - -

End -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now what do I need to do? (apart from a gallon of petrol and a match :'( )

Thanks for reading my guff!

Mark.

[rwbaldwin]

It is not surprising that you are stalling/stuttering with these perceived faults.

The N108 is responsible for advancing the fuel injection pump and the N239 is the butterfly flap that closes off air into the inlet manifold when closed.

The throttle position sensor (G79) is only connected to the ECU, so the fault is the ECU, its power or its connections.

You say in your other post that the relay 109 was transparent. I don't think this was a VAG relay so it may or may not have been suitable. Before giving up on relay 109 as the ultimate cause, I would check the relay socket makes good contact with the new relay 'pins'. Were the pins on the old relay the same thickness?

I assume items such as the blower motor don't go off when you stall? If they do go off too, you maybe looking at a more generic fault.

The next place to look would be under the plenum covers where the ECU is located. It's not the weather for it, so warm the covers with a hairdryer before trying to pull them off. Check for water and 'compost' around the ECU connections. Disconnect the battery and check the pins in the ECU connectors for corrosion.

It could of course be the ECU itself.

Edited 7 December, 2010 by rwbaldwin

[fordfan]

It appears that your engine control unit has had it. If you have the log in code for your immobiliser and can get a used one with the log in code for that one you could replace it, or get your one repaired.

Member shark_90 has the facilities to obtain the codes, so it might be worth getting in contact with him.

[Octavianewboy]

It is not surprising that you are stalling/stuttering with these perceived faults.

The N108 is responsible for advancing the fuel injection pump and the N239 is the butterfly flap that closes off air into the inlet manifold when closed.

The throttle position sensor (G79) is only connected to the ECU, so the fault is the ECU, its power or its connections.

You say in your other post that the relay 109 was transparent. I don't think this was a VAG relay so it may or may not have been suitable. Before giving up on relay 109 as the ultimate cause, I would check the relay socket makes good contact with the new relay 'pins'. Were the pins on the old relay the same thickness?

I assume items such as the blower motor don't go off when you stall? If they do go off too, you maybe looking at a more generic fault.

The next place to look would be under the plenum covers where the ECU is located. It's not the weather for it, so warm the covers with a hairdryer before trying to pull them off. Check for water and 'compost' around the ECU connections. Disconnect the battery and check the pins in the ECU connectors for corrosion.

It could of course be the ECU itself.

Thanks guys.

rwbaldwin: The old 109 relay is a genuine VAG item, I have a photo if required of both old relays. All connections to both relays have been checked and are fine including thickness and contact grip.

The ECU was checked in the summer when I replaced the cabin filter and the entire area was cleaned. The engine stutters or stalls but nothing else is affected, blowers work during and after, no lights flickering etc.

I will warm the car up fomorrow before disconnecting the battery and ecu.

fordfan: when you mention the log code do you mean the IMMO-IDENTNR: number I edited above?

I am beginning to think it is the ECU myself, all this started after finishing work on Friday, was it the 13th by chance??

Thanks again.

Mark.

[rwbaldwin]

Often these ECUs can be repaired if you can't find a replacement. It is usually one of the internal voltage regulators that is faulty

see http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/

[Octavianewboy]

Often these ECUs can be repaired if you can't find a replacement. It is usually one of the internal voltage regulators that is faulty

see http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/

Hmmm, thanks for the link. Internal voltage reg - just up my street. I've got some internal photo's of my type of ECU

I'm off for a look around, I wish it wasn't so cold outside, very fustrating!!

There are alot on ebay, not quite the same, just the last letters are different, eg: mine 038906018GM ebay 038906018GN, do you think I could use one if it's recoded?

Cheers,

Mark.

[fordfan]

The immo number above is the 14 digit serial number of the immobiliser. In the good old days I could phone a friendly Skoda dealer with that and the VIN and get the 4 digit log in code, unfortunately these days the dealers do not have access to them.

I can't see any other way as to get the Internal Control Module: ROM Error fault sorted first, as in my view that if the ECU is fundamentally flawed, can you trust any other readings that you are getting from it?

I think that you need the exact part number as the replacement.

There's some here:

ECU

But you'll still need both login codes.

[Octavianewboy]

The immo number above is the 14 digit serial number of the immobiliser. In the good old days I could phone a friendly Skoda dealer with that and the VIN and get the 4 digit log in code, unfortunately these days the dealers do not have access to them.

I can't see any other way as to get the Internal Control Module: ROM Error fault sorted first, as in my view that if the ECU is fundamentally flawed, can you trust any other readings that you are getting from it?

I think that you need the exact part number as the replacement.

There's some here:

ECU

But you'll still need both login codes.

Ah the old 4digit code, I've heard about that before.

Thanks for the link. I'll rip the ECU out tomorrow and leave details of my findings.

Cheers,

Mark.

[Octavianewboy]

Well I've been out in the sun all afternoon and found....................nothing physically wrong with the ECU. :(

I'm giving up for now until I get warmed up. Then I can plug in the laptop and see what's going on.

In the mean time I need to find an old car as a runaround until I get the Octavia fixed. Grrrrrrrrrr.

Thanks for your help

Mark.

[rwbaldwin]

You might find that the fault with ECU is temperature dependant and starts to fail when warm. It you point a hair dryer at it when the car is idling you may get it to fail. This would make the faulty joint/component much easier to find.

[Chris_55]

You might find that the fault with ECU is temperature dependant and starts to fail when warm. It you point a hair dryer at it when the car is idling you may get it to fail. This would make the faulty joint/component much easier to find.

Some fault tracing info here:

http://www.tt-forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=78502&sid=5842829860d9917fb773e11f2094fe61&start=15