rwbaldwin

It's a very common fault - the wires become brittle and break. Check your a/c is working. 2 of the 4 wires go to the a/c compressor.

If they were reproducing the condition of the car going uphill IN THE WRONG GEAR, then it's not surprising it bogged down on the rolling road too.

Well, I've just driven one about 15 minutes ago that the owner says has the problem. Four people in the car - steep hill start - no problem. 1st gear to around 3200 and then into 2nd. We then did another lap with the owner driving. She tried to take the hill in 3rd and bogged down. With everyone in the car shouting "change down", she finally changed into second but it was too late and she stopped. She pulled away fine in 1st but then changed to 2nd at around 2500, bogged down and declared "see, there is a problem". Lap number 2 with owner the driving and me 'instructing'. As she started to bog down, she went for more throttle. I told her to change down, which she did and we made up the hill without a problem (except that she said that the "engine was going too fast" at a little over 3000rpm). It's the driver's fault - not the car. I will say, the gear changes need to be made as soon as the car starts to bog down and this is at a higher than expected rpm.

It's not the EGR valve (N18) - it's the anti-shudder valve (N239).

The updates will continue until 2019. Windows XP embedded and PC systems that are POS Ready will continue to get updates. Given that there are many 3rd party POS solutions and the only requirement for third parties is to set the HKLM\SYSTEM\WPA\PosReady\Installed value is a '1', Micro$oft has no way of stopping the updates. When it wanted to expand its POS business in 2009, it agreed to give the same support (10 years) to rival (Non POS2009) vendors to avoid any potential anti-trust action.

+1If you are using WSUS and make the change, the XP machine will download server 2003 updates and install them.

Scotland is not the birthplace of the telephone. It was 'born' in the US. Bell left Scotland in his early 20s and never looked back. He became a Canadian citizen and later, an American Citizen. He wasn't a British (or Scottish) when the telephone was invented

You really need to take it off. It lets you clamp it in position with Tigerseal between the vent and the arch. Ignore any that oozes out. It's easy to trim off with a sharp knife. When it dries, run a thick bead around the back to be sure.

There's a trip average and a long term average (that doesn't reset each trip). If you're using the latter, did you reset it?

Not a bad price and well worth it. When you get it, you'll notice just how much flow it allows compared to the diy store vents. Tigerseal is best for securing the vent. If you look at the picture in Bowder1 post (or in mine http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/192532-intercooler-mods/#entry2300875 ) you will notice that the surround isn't cut square. This can't be avoided to to the shape off the TT arch. Also, note the position.

Here's my effort http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/192532-intercooler-mods/#entry2300875

I would suspect the waterpump is on the way out and the noise you can hear is 'kettling' (water boiling in the head).

Check G62 against G2. Are they the same? A failed sensor doesn't always go negative.

It wouldn't fire because you were 180° out. There are two positions of the camshaft that correspond to TDC on the crankshaft (as it's a four stroke engine) and you locked the crank/cam at the wrong one. Unfortunately, it's possible to insert the locking bar in both positions :( AIUI, you then moved the pump 180° from 7 o'clock to 1 o'clock. This is the problem. If you had left it at 7 o'clock or rotated the crank another rev until TDC appeared again (and the hole would be at 1 o'clock) all would have been OK. After all it was running fine before you changed the belt.Counting from the belt end, which cylinder has the injector with the needle lift sensor?

I doubt it is the pump. Before you do anything else... 1. Put the pin in the pump, making sure it is the hole. 2. Turn the crankshaft to TDC. 3. Turn the camshaft so the lobes are up on the cylinder closest to the belt and the slot at the vacuum pump is horizontal so the lock bar can be installed. 4. Put the belt back on and tension it. You should then turn over the engine by hand so that the camshaft turns a complete revolution (the crankshaft will turn two revolutions). If all is OK, then engine should run.

You only need to do that if the centre nut has been undone. It's usually covered in yellow paint as a warning not to undo it.

You were 180° out :( The crankshaft rotates twice for every camshaft/IP pulley revolution, so you see the TDC mark twice for each camshaft/IP pulley revolution. If you had turned the crankshaft another turn, you would have been in the right position. The good bit is that the crankshaft and camshaft are still in sync (no bent valves, etc). The bad bit is that you need to remove the belt and rotate the IP pulley by 180°, without moving the crankshaft/camshaft pulleys.

When you saw the injection pump hole at 7 o'clock (which means you were out by 180°), did you turn the IP sprocket to the 1 o'clock position? If so, then that's the problem.

It's quite possible to put the pump locking pin around 30° to the right of the hole. It's also possible to be out by 180°. I'm assuming that when you turned the engine over by hand before starting it, it rotated without obstruction. What you need to do now is remove the belt, turn the crankshaft to TDC and ensure the locking pin is actually in the injection pump hole. You need to set the camshaft so the slot is horizontal and the cam lobes are both up on the cylinder closest to the belt. If they are not both up, rotate the camshaft by 180°. I'm assuming you haven't undone the nut at the centre of the injection pump sprocket. If you're in doubt about the TDC mark, check it by removing the glowplug and turn the engine by hand until the piston is actually at TDC.

Did you check the coolant temp sensor? It is a 2-channel temp sensor on the AXR. One goes to the dash temperature gauge (G2) and the other goes to the ECU (G62). If G62 is faulty, the ECU may think the engine is always cold and use more fuel. I'm assuming you have already checked for fuel leaks.

The first thing you need to do is to calculate the fuel usage between fillups. Don't rely on the displayed readings.

+1That's why it is a really bad idea to delete the butterfly valve with the EGR. You lose your last line of defense against a runaway.

It's there to stop idiots revving an unloaded engine above 3000rpm

+1It's also worrying that they wouldn't have repaced the oil feed pipe if it hadn't snapped. Any turbo warranty would have been void if the pipe had not been replaced. When the engine 'ran away', what rpm did the tacho show?

My Saab failure happened 20 years ago, before email so it would be much simpler today. The Saab dealer put a new 'service due' sticker on the windscreen and the new dates/mileage was pointed it out to me. I knew another owner who had the same problem and the dealer in Derby did exactly the same. The dealers were also told to explain the exact nature of the failure (what the tensioner looks like, what it does, etc).The Skoda dealer network is frustrated with Skoda UK on this issue. For most marques, when a warranty repair is approved, the process is used to show how 'wonderful' the after sales service is. With social media, public forums and search engines, you would think it would be more important today, than 20 year ago.