eml and emissions workshop going mad now !

[smokey2412]

i know this has been posted several times but noone has actually gave proper answer.

my car : ( Skoda Superb 1.9tdi 130 2004 )

i have had this for nearly a year and now its starting to pi*s me off as im driver and i start the car every 10min and the sound is annoying.

here is what i done.

i have taken egr off and cleaned it twice in 2 months and no result.

i have changed the water coolant sensor and still the same.

i dont want to spend £200 for a new egr valve and find out it wont help.

there are 2 things that makes me go mad as well so i dont know if thats something to do with it.

1. turbo is whistleing all the time. eg. if i press the pedal a little bit from 1k rpm to 1.2k rpm it starts to whistle and keeps doing it even on stationary.

2. when driving on motorway or dual carriage way and when i engine brake and use gears from 5 to 4 to 3 and so on to 2 and then i press the gas peddal the car loses its power and the turbo is really quiet barely hearable, as soon as i stop and turn off the engine and turn back on it all works again...

i have done some diagnostics and only one error and thats "19586 - EGR System: Regulation Range Exceeded

P3130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent"

anyone has a clue what to do next and the cheapest option to find out the problem ?

ps. im going to clean the MAF and other sensors as well with Electrical Contact Cleaner and maybe buy few redex and some oil treatment ??

thank you all guys for helping

Lukas

Edited 10 December, 2010 by smokey2412

[gixersix]

Possible vacuum leak on the egr actuator. Theres an electronic vacuum valve similar to the N75 valve that controls the EGR. Theres a way you can keep the egr valve closed, not sure how you can do this but someone on here should be able to advise on how to do it. Once its permanently closed take the car for a drive see if theres any difference in symptoms.

[smokey2412]

Possible vacuum leak on the egr actuator. Theres an electronic vacuum valve similar to the N75 valve that controls the EGR. Theres a way you can keep the egr valve closed, not sure how you can do this but someone on here should be able to advise on how to do it. Once its permanently closed take the car for a drive see if theres any difference in symptoms.

today i taken out everything and cleaned and checked for cracked pipes but all seems ok and im not looking to close the egr im looking for some sort of solution.

i have been to german car specialists and they said it might be catalytic converter or some sensor on there ? kinda weird tbh so im going there on monday to check on vag-com.

if anyone has idea let me know.

[gixersix]

Sorry my fault, I didn't explain myself properly. Once you have the EGR valve closed, take the car for a drive to see if there is any change in symptoms. If there is then it would suggest there is either a vacum leak to the EGR or electonic vacuum control valve, or that the electronic vacuum control valve is faulty. Hope this helps

[smokey2412]

Sorry my fault, I didn't explain myself properly. Once you have the EGR valve closed, take the car for a drive to see if there is any change in symptoms. If there is then it would suggest there is either a vacum leak to the EGR or electonic vacuum control valve, or that the electronic vacuum control valve is faulty. Hope this helps

oh ok how should i close it any idea ?

[smokey2412]

maybe someone will know, if i go to someone who has vag-com will he be able to disable the light and error or whatever so it does not come up again ?

i want to sell the car and i dont think anyone will want to buy it with the light.

[gixersix]

Hopefully someone will be able to tell you how to close the egr valve, I dont know how to myself. The valve that may be faulty is not that expensive, and fairly easy to replace.

The light will be able to be turned of with someone with VAG.com but it will return as soon as the problem occurs again.

[smokey2412]

does anyone know where the plug (cable) is which triggers the eml light so i could disable it as i have been reading on new beetle and seat people done it and it worked ?

[oh_superb]

does anyone know where the plug (cable) is which triggers the eml light so i could disable it as i have been reading on new beetle and seat people done it and it worked ?

It doesn't work like that mate.

Something is wrong, and the car knows it - it's trying to tell you something.

Disable EGR and see if it drives nice after that. I would do this with a blanking plate made out of 2 mm sheet stainless steel sandwiched between the EGR

valve and the manifold (or pipe to the inlet manifold) to stop exhaust gases passing through.

If the car drives nicely then you need a new EGR valve OR vacuum actuator for the EGR system.

But leaving the blanking plate in there will NOT be a permanent fix as this in itself WILL trigger another fault code as the MAF will read too much air going into the

engine for any given part load condition.

I would try this first. EGR valves are quite accessible on these.

Remove the EGR valve and use the gasket as a template to fabricate a blanking plate. Then put the blanking plate in and take for a test drive. :p

Just don't use Coke can aluminium as some people recommend - although easy to play with a readily available, it will break and get sucked into the engine.

Not good.

[smokey2412]

sounds good but the blanking plate will it trigger eml and or emissions workshop ?

[shbrend99]

Ok i know this is an old post but its the one that comes up in google currently, so i thought i would add this reply to help others with this problem.

2 Months ago i purchases a 2004 Skoda Superb & i have to say this is a FANTASTIC car!!!!!

However, For the past 2 weeks i have had a WARNING light on the dash saying 'EMISSIONS WORKSHOP!'

I took the car to my local garage who diagnosed the problem simply by plunging the car into a computer (FOR FREE!!!), the computer ran some checks taking about 5 mins and highlighted Faulty Coolent/Temp sensor. The garage ordered a new sensor and fitted it in 30mins at a total cost of £45......Problem solved!! I does need to be sorted if you have this problem as the when the warning light is on your cars engine management system runs you engine in a default safe mode, i'm told this does not damage the car in any way but needs to be sorted so that your car is using the correct amount of coolant to run efficiently.

I hope this post will help someone out there!! as the internet was the first place i turned too!!!

Cheers

Brendan

[rotodiesel]

The software in the Bosch ECU uses the fuel temperature with a scaling factor as a substitute value for coolant temperature when the (crappy) VAG sender fails. All of the black bodied senders will fail and it's worth changing this component for a green one on spec. if you get an EML.

The car runs perfectly well in this reversionary mode with hardly any reduction in engine output. When you change the sender, the EML will go out after a couple of runs.

I chopped open the faulty (black) sender on my AWX and found the Siemens thermistor elements - which are very brittle and fragile - potted in hard white epoxy. This is a classic situation for damage by thermal cycling - the epoxy has a high coefficient of linear expansion and is confined in a narrow brass tube so the stresses generated break the thermistor elements.

I must chop a green one open sometime and see if they have used a small quantity of resilient encapsulent.

VAG are real numpties - they ignore design principles which are perfectly well known in the industry. Jap car next time.

rotodiesel.