gixersix

Not tried these personally but for the price it might be worth giving them a try http://shoft.co.uk/

Does anyone know if the Adaptive Front lighting System control units are sided eg does it matter if the near side unit is plugged into the off side or visa versa? And does it have to be a UK spec unit or will any replacement be ok providing the part numbers are the same. Thanks

I had this problem every now and again when I had my superb 1, I found that if you pull the inside door handle and keeping it pulled then use the remote fob to unlock this would work, never had to thump the door though.

I can definitely hear the pump operating in the tank when the ignition is switched on, its only briefly for a second or two then it stops but its every time the ignition is switched on. Does this mean that I can purge the air from the filter without VCDS? or Is there another pump before the filter that I need to run as with some VW's or just the one in the tank on the 1.6 greenline?

Quick question, have done a search and I couldn't find anything on a diy 1.6 greenline fuel filter change. There are lots of debates on the vw forums over this & jumping two pumps to purge the system of air, so can anyone confirm please. Once I have changed the fuel filter will turning the ignition on and off several times without starting the engine prime the filter sufficiently to purge air from the system? I don't have access to VCDS to enable this to purge the air. I can hear the pump in the tank briefly when the ignition is switched on before starting. Thanks

Just a word of caution your best tyres eg the ones with the most tread should really be on the rear for safety. The vehicle is less likely to lose the rear end in damp/wet conditions when cornering. Its easier to control a front end slide than a rear end slide, and that applies to front and rear wheel drive cars. Just do a quick google search to confirm.

I'm looking at these for my twin door they're not permanent and can be removed and re-installed as required. In addition as they are classed as blinds they don't have to be declared on the insurance where as tinting should be. http://www.solarplexius.co.uk/Sun-protection-car-tinting/skoda/superb/2011

Today I replaced the two front tyres that were on the car when bought it last week. They were a horrible make, Kingstars and had around 7mm of tread left on them. They were really noisey. I replaced with Goodyear Efficient grip performance, and it has made the world of difference with regard to road noise.

I have bought a 2011 superb greenline elegance, which replaced my 1.9 2003 superb elegance with 201,000 miles on. I know the maxidot display is prone to over estimating by around 10% the mpg, but have just filled mine up again and it appears to be under estimating. Has anyone experienced this before?

Just wondering what the expected mileage you should get from a clutch and DMF on a 1.9pd 130awx? Mine has done 193k on its original clutch and DMF, it's not slipping and there isn't any rattles or noises etc that makes me suspect the DMF is on its way out. It recently had a service at 192k with an independent specialist and nothing was mentioned about the clutch/DMF. My concern is that with that mileage should I be looking at changing it as a precaution, or am I just being overly cautious? I do 25k miles a year 95%+ is motorway. Thoughts/suggestions please. Thanks

What is the corrosion warranty with skoda?

The only way to do this without any problems would be to fit a two tank system. The car starts up and runs until warm then switches over to the heated veg oil. Before you switch the engine off for a long period of time you then switch back to diesel ready for the next cold start. Would not use any more than a litre of veg oil to a tank of diesel, as you end up with ring gumming and also putting a strain on the injector pump. Eventually the rings will get stuck causing the engine to run on its own engine oil, the engine over revs and it wrecks the engine. A twin tank kit used to be around £1500 a year or so ago. If you can get your veg oil for free, ie used veg oil; remove all the crap and any water that it may contain then it would be worth doing. Remember you can only use 2500 litres of veg oil before you have to start paying duty. The problem with bio-diesel is the effects it can have on the seals. I think somewhere like dieselveg.com would be the place to look if you were serious about using veg oil.

I removed the plastic sleeves in the bumper that the original sensors fit in. Soldered the wire for the replacement sensor unit to the reverse light positive. Disconnected the original buzzer so you don't have the annoying long beep from the old duff sensors. And removed the section of wiring loom for the original sensors that sits behind the bumper. I did remove the bumper to fit them and its fairly easy to remove. I will be buying a second set soon as I believe with a bit of modification they would fit the original sleeves that I removed and they will then look even more original. Not had any problems with these sensors so far, the only thing I didn't like was the tone of buzzer provided, but that's just me being picky and I have replaced it with the original buzzer so it sounds better.

Fitted these before the bad weather, not had any problems with them so far and they only £16.50 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-REVERSING-REVERSE-PARKING-4-SENSOR-KIT-BUZZER-ALARM-/190322960277?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5021e795

Hopefully someone will be able to tell you how to close the egr valve, I dont know how to myself. The valve that may be faulty is not that expensive, and fairly easy to replace. The light will be able to be turned of with someone with VAG.com but it will return as soon as the problem occurs again.

Sorry my fault, I didn't explain myself properly. Once you have the EGR valve closed, take the car for a drive to see if there is any change in symptoms. If there is then it would suggest there is either a vacum leak to the EGR or electonic vacuum control valve, or that the electronic vacuum control valve is faulty. Hope this helps

Possible vacuum leak on the egr actuator. Theres an electronic vacuum valve similar to the N75 valve that controls the EGR. Theres a way you can keep the egr valve closed, not sure how you can do this but someone on here should be able to advise on how to do it. Once its permanently closed take the car for a drive see if theres any difference in symptoms.

Recently had a problem with no low down power in the higher gears similar to a faulty MAF. If you was above 2500 - 3000 the car was fine and would pull normally. In 1st & 2nd there was low down power so MAF was ruled out. Suspected vanes on the turbo were stuck in the open position so had it cleaned. Slight improvement but not rectified. I eventually stumbled across this article which helped me diagnose a faulty N75 valve. The only fault showing was negative boost pressure. There are some other articles on this site where this was taken from that are of significance so i'll post a link. I asked Martin from VW Audi forums for his permission to post this and thank him for granting his permission. B5 VNT TURBO PROBLEMS DIESEL TURBO CONTROL VACUUM CONTROL. When you start the engine The engines tandem pump produces the vacuum (sucks). This vacuum (suction) is used to control four systems. 1. Brake servo 2. EGR valve N18 3. Intake manifold flap valve N239 4. MAP regulator valve N75 Vacuum passes through a one way valve to the brake servo to give assisted brakes. Vacuum passes to the EGR valve The EGR valve controls the EGR actuator which moves a flap between the exhaust and intake manifolds and holds it open. The EGR valve can bleed vacuum to the air filter which lets it shut. An electrical impulse from the ECU also controls the bleed off and therefore the opening and closing. Vacuum passes to the Intake manifold flap valve. Vacuum in the intake manifold flap valve regulator, acts on an actuator to pull the intake manifold flap shut for 3 seconds when the engine is switched off. Vacuum is then lost and the flap valve springs open again. Vacuum passes to the Map regulator N75. This allows vacuum to pass to the turbo actuator and pulls the actuator to actuate the turbo. (In the old days, more vacuum meant more turbo, this is not the case with variable vane turbo’s.) The Map regulator N75 can bleed vacuum to the air filter. The Map regulator is electronically operated by the Map sensor via the ECU. The Map sensor detects excess boost pressure in the intake. An excessive boost pressure signal causes the ECU to send a signal to the Map N75 valve which opens and bleeds vacuum to the air filter. This reduced vacuum reduces the pull on the turbo actuator and cuts turbo pressure. The vacuum system contains THREE one way valves to help prevent failure of all four systems if a vacuum pipe leaks. WHAT GOES WRONG. Tandem pump failure. All vacuum lost, brake assist lost. Engine will run rough or may not start at all. Vacuum lost to EGR valve. EGR valve will stay closed. Engine will start and run fine. EGR valves can become stuck open. Engine will run rough, produce excessive smoke. Valve can be cleaned and unstuck. As a temporary measure valve can be pushed shut, vacuum pipe disconnected and blocked. Vacuum lost to Intake manifold flap valve. This may not show, or it will show as a shuddering engine on switch off. Vacuum lost to MAP regulator valve N75. This will mean no vacuum to turbo actuator and so turbo will not work. Engine will start and run fine but have no power to accelerate or climb hills. The vacuum system contains a sensor which measures air temperature and pressure. This is the MAP sensor. This sensor feeds signals to the engines ECU. Using these signals the ECU can determine three things. Manifold pressure within specification Manifold pressure too high Manifold pressure too low. If the ECU receives a signal for too high or to low manifold pressure the MAP N75 valve is opened and vacuum bleeds to the air filter. This loss of vacuum cuts vacuum to the turbo actuator and the turbo stops working. The engine will loose power suddenly and refuse to rev, climb hills etc. This is called LIMP mode. The ECU should now store a fault code but not necessarily show a fault light. Switching ignition off and on should reset the limp mode (not the code) and the engine should run normally. As soon as the manifold pressure goes too high or too low, it will drop back into limp mode. So the vacuum system is made much more complicated because of the signals sent to the ECU. If the engine drops into limp mode you have to get a VAG-COM or Dealer code read. Code 17964. Boost pressure too low. Vacuum pipe damaged Map N75 valve failed, bleeding vacuum to air filter Turbo actuator failed, not pulling on turbo Map sensor failed, reading too low. Intercooler pipe split/joint leaking. Code 17965. Boost pressure too high. . Vacuum pipes wrongly connected Map N75 valve failed, cannot bleed vacuum to air filter Map sensor failed, reading too high Turbo vanes stuck in max position In theory both codes can be caused by a faulty turbo (sticking vanes). In practice the vanes stick in the max pressure position so cause boost pressure too high, not too low. As a turbo fault is the most expensive option, it’s best to check everything else first. What to do with Code 17964. Start the car and feel round the big air pipes from the turbo to the intercooler and back to the inlet manifold. You should feel air blowing out of a split pipe or bad connector especially if the engine is speeded up. Ask someone to start the car while you watch the turbo actuator. It should move 15 – 20mm as vacuum acts on it and stay moved. If it doesn’t move the actuator is faulty or you have no vacuum in the pipe leading to the actuator Pull the pipe off the actuator, attach a spare bit of pipe and suck hard. The actuator should move 10 – 15mm and stay moved as long as you suck. If the actuator doesn’t move it is faulty. If the actuator moves and stays moved the fault is in the vacuum pipes or MAP valve (N75). Testing the vacuum pipes. Pull the turbo actuator pipe off the actuator and blow into the pipe.(You can use a bicycle or football pump to apply pressure but DO NOT pump it up.) It should not be possible to blow/pump into the pipe. If you can blow into the pipe there is a vacuum leak further down the system. If you cannot blow the vacuum pipes are ok. (You must be very sure of this as a slight leak will cause intermittent turbo loss.) It is often easier to replace all the vacuum pipes one at a time than it is to find a leak. If you have replaced all of the vacuum pipes and can still blow into the actuator pipe you probably have a faulty MAP valve (N75). If the N75 valve is jammed open, too much vacuum will be lost to the air filter and stop the turbo actuator working. . To be sure, try blowing directly into the N75 valve using a spare piece of hose whilst blocking the IN pipe to the valve. (A pump helps but don’t pump it up.) Any leak means the valve is probably faulty. Another simple test is, engine running, pull the vacuum pipe off the N75 valve that leads to the turbo actuator. The actuator should immediately drop back. Replace the pipe, watch the actuator pull across and then pull the pipe off that runs into the N75 valve the turbo actuator should drop back again. If any of these tests suggest that the N75 valve is leaking you need to replace it. No vacuum leaks found at all. This suggests the MAP sensor is faulty. The simplest way to check this is to replace it. If the MAP sensor is ok and the vacuum system is air tight and the turbo actuator is moving and staying moved then the fault is probably the turbo. It is possible for the whole system to be working ok and the turbo actuator works BUT it is not pulling the turbo vanes open. This means that the turbo runs fine but generates less pressure than it should. (This is however unlikely because the vanes usually jam open.) TRY Clean the turbo with turbo cleaner Strip the turbo and clean properly Replace the turbo with new or reconditioned unit What to do with Code 17965 Ask someone to start car while you watch the turbo actuator. It will move 15 – 20mm and stay moved. It must do this for you to register “pressure too high” If it doesn’t move or stay moved the system is lying to you and the MAP sensor is probably faulty so replace that first. It is just about possible to have too high pressure and a vacuum leak but this is very unlikely so you should be able to ignore the vacuum pipes. A failed MAP N75 valve should not cause over boost. It should fail in the ,"bleed vacuum to air filter" position and stop boost. It can get stuck in the "open" full boost position and that will lead to overboost. N75 valves are reliable and don't often fail. Before replacing the N75 valve make sure the bleed pipe is clear by pulling it off the valve and blowing into it. It must NOT be blocked. If the MAP sensor and the MAP valve are not faulty or have been replaced then the fault is probably the turbo. The turbo vanes have been pulled open by the actuator and are sticking open causing over boost. This isn’t caused by a faulty actuator. It is usually caused by the actuator linkage being jammed. TRY Clean the turbo with turbo cleaner Strip the turbo and clean properly Replace the turbo with new or reconditioned unit A faulty MAF (AMM) should not give either under boost or over boost codes. A faulty EGR valve should not give either under boost or over boost codes BUT A vacuum leak in any vacuum pipe can cause problems especially if a one way valve is not working. To ensure that the EGR valve is not adding to your problems: Disconnect the pipes so that you can press the internal flap shut. Pull the vacuum pipe off the EGR valve and plug it with a bolt or similar. (It must be air tight). The EGR valve will now stay shut. The engine will run fine like this. https://sites.google.com/site/1810martin/home

Could be as simple as the wind blowing in the wrong direction from the back of the car to the front. Or could be a leak on the exhaust system. Put you hand over the tail pipe so it prevents the exhaust gasses from escaping, eventually it should build up enough pressure to stop you from blocking it. If not I would say you have a leak. Before you do it just check that the tail pipe is cool enough to put you hand on.

Had it on the diagnostic and its showing negative boost pressure. One of the pipes was showing a small leak but not enough to cause the problem I'm experiencing but I changed it anyway and it made no difference. Same low down lack of power which increases in severity as you progress through the box 1st & 2nd are OK and the boost wont cut. 3rd if the hill is steep enough the boost will cut out and emissions workshop will show, same with 4th and 5th. Resets when the ignition is switched off then back on. Its not the same symptoms as a duff maf. When it was in for a service at DSB in Nottingham, Dave used a cleaner in the turbo. It cleans the soot from the veins, and although it has not completely cured the problem it has improved it. Will hopefully be removing the turbo this weekend and striping it down as the veins may be stuck in the wide open position, hence it feeling like a car with turbo lag. Just to add there are no split pipes etc.

just for people to see what they look like, like i already said with a bit of modification they should be able to fit the original sleeves. http://img88.imageshack.us/i/09102010025.jpg/ http://img405.imageshack.us/i/09102010024.jpg/

As said I bought a set of these, and to let everyone know they do fit the holes in the bumper trim if you remove the sleeves from behind the trim that the original sensors fit into. The sensors head sits about 1 - 2 mm proud of the bumper trim but with a bit of modification I believe they could be made to fit into the original sleeves for a more oe look. Fitting took about 2 & half hours, bumper removal etc. Wiring is basic and only requires a live feed from the reverse light and an earth. All the other wires have connectors that plug straight into the control box. I removed the original sensor wiring harness and used the grommet for the new wiring. Only criticism is the buzzer as its a higher pitch than the original and sounds a bit cheap but will be swapping it out for the original at a later date. I'll post some pics later so you can see what they look like fitted.

Ive bought a set of these and hopefully will be fitting them this weekend so will let you know if the holes are the correct size or need modification

update. Still no improvement on the low down accelleration. I encountered a new problem yesterday. On way back from buying a fuel filter from skoda found that the engine had no boost. Checked the pipes for splits etc. Everythings ok. Change the fuel filter, take it out for a test drive, the boost is back but still no low down improvement. This pattern of boost/no boost keeps occuring with no obvious pattern. Will hopefully be getting it on the diagnostic sometime next week.

Will be trying a new fuel filter as its about 19k since this was changed and checking the airfilter to see if this needs changing but dont think it will as I dont have any extra smoke which would indicate too much fuel/not enough air. N97 valve is I beleive a Throttle Position Actuator Vent Valve. On mine I would discount this as it pulls ok in 1st, and unless someone can tell me any different I beleive this would cause the symptoms irrespective of which gear I'm in. If it was slow accelleration in all gears then I would personally go for the MAF but as previously said its ok in 1st and theres no difference with it unplugged. Having said all this, I was driving to work this morning, 1st day back after 2 weeks off, and after 150 miles of motorway the car did appear to be back to its normal good accelleration below 2000rpm. Will check again tonight and post my findings in the morning.