hi members can anyone shed a light on what is happening with my fabia 52plate 19tdi,car cuts out when driving ive changed both the filters it usually starts first time but when cuts out it can take a few turns before it kicks back in sometimes with a bit help off the throttle also put a bottle of injector cleaner in took it for a run om the a1 got it to 8omph it would not go any faster throttle full to the floor took slip road off and cut out again baffled can anyone help thanks

Any fault codes?

Try unplugging the air mass meter as a rough stab in the dark.

hi techie the lad who is trying to sort it tried a machine on it seems to think it could be wiring he did have a code but doesnt understand it tbh he said ther was something from the alternater but the clip just needed pushed back a bit ?

If your getting anything like a DFM signal fault then check the wiring from the alternator to the plug in front of the gearbox, quite often breaks, this will be apparently by not having a battery light come up on the dash when you put the ignition on. However its unlikely to cause your fault.

Its going to need some diag work.

dont know if this helps but no lights come on when it stalls ?

It really needs hooking up to diagnostics as mentioned already, to truly find out what is wrong.

These symptoms may not trigger the engine light. The "not going any faster" thing is clearly limp mode - the car is killing power to preserve itself.

il try and get skoda to hook me little darling up tomorrow i miss her lol

Or find some local Geordie on the vagcom owners map, who might be able to help you. There is a vagcom section with this info in if you rummage around a bit in here.

Or find some local Geordie on the vagcom owners map, who might be able to help you. There is a vagcom section with this info in if you rummage around a bit in here.

thanks devonutopia il have a look around :D

Hi and welcome aboard.

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had the fabia on a diagnostic machine the code that is coming up is 17911 it says code signal from alternator term. df implausable signal p1503. when switching on ignition ,battery light and the engine management light doesnt come on even tho the battery light could be what techie has already explained yesterday when we put the diagnostics machine on the car these wer the codes 18043can data bus,ac-no signal ac control module trouble code/s stored wiring matching resister in ecm, code 18045 can data bus, electronic ce,no signal trouble code,s stored ,wiring ,matching resistor in ecm . but yesterday faults have been cleared off computer but the problem still persists by cutting out but it doesnt fetch the last 2 codes up anymore any idea lads ?

Copy pasted this from TDIclub. Might shed some light on it.

The problem: On the front side of the engine is a harness that runs from the alternator, voltage regulator, and A/C compressor (if so equipped) to the main harness underneath the battery box. Apparently, VW decided to make this harness ~1" shorter than it should be which becomes an issue at a four pin connector (2 pin in the case of no A/C) located on the starter.

There are five wires in the harness:

1) Large red power wire from the alternator. Goes to the fuse panel on the top of the battery.

2) Green and black wire from A/C compressor (actually for A/C compressor clutch). Goes through third pin on the 4 pin connector to ?

3) Brown and black wire from A/C compressor (actually for A/C compressor clutch). Goes through fourth pin on the 4 pin connector to ?

4) VERY small brown and red wire from the voltage regulator. Goes through the first pin on the 4 pin connector on its way to the ECM.

5) VERY small blue wire from the voltage regulator. Goes through the second pin on the 4 pin connector on its way to the ECM and Generator indicator light in the dash, as well as the warning chime.

On my car, #4 was completely disconnected; #5, and #3 were also well on their way (the sheathing had cracked and the wires were frayed).

My first step was to pull the harness from the car to see if I could salvage the connector. To do this the battery, battery box, air cleaner and engine cover came out to gain access to the various points of attachment. Once out, I noticed that all the damage to the wires was less than 1/4" from the connector making soldering somewhat difficult. I came up with 2 ways to fix the short, broken harness: 1) pull connector apart, lengthen wires, rebuild connector 2) remove connector, lengthen wires, permanently attach the harness. I decided to go with the latter option since I kinda mangled the connector trying to pull it apart (I don't think they are meant to be serviced) and also because I didn't think the connector was necessary.

So out came the soldering iron, wire strippers, heat shrink, 16ga wire, and wire loom. The whole process was pretty painless, that is if you don't count the couple of times I burned myself and the 10deg parking lot that I had to do the fix in . I buttoned everything back up and fired it up and took it for a spin, keeping my eye on the CEL to see if anything had been screwed up - nothing. When I got back I ran a VAGCOM to see if the 17911 was stored again and....success, no more implausible signal.

I look forward to see if this fixes my other problem of frequently blowing taillights, headlights and brake lights. My guess is that the completely disconnected wire was touching one of the other exposed wires in the connector...possibly the ground (?) for the A/C.

Anyway, I hope this helps shed some light on the 17911 fault code. Happy TDI'ing.

update lads have had a vagcom done on me darling i thought it would have been ****e in me tank but apparently it could be a electrical fault /ie alternator affecting the injectors what price do you think a recon alternator fitted should cost any thoughts gladly accepted lol

how much for a auto electrician to repair an alternater ?

had another dianostic done apparently its the ecu thats went being charged 300 ?

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