friends felly is in need of a new steering rack - there is play in the inner rack (pinion gear worn i think). the tie rods are also relatively knackered. The pinion adjuster is maxed out and there is still play. (its not power steering btw)

Went down to local factors, can get a "as new" AMK recon rack for £35, or who-knows-what at skoda dealership.

anyone have experience with recon racks? AMK ?

also - was recommended by someone that no matter what i get it would be well worthwhile really packing grease into it as they are usually pretty stingy at the factory / recon place.

thoughts?

AMK is a brand supplied by a lot of motor factors for items such as CV joints and steering racks. We had one problem with a rack for a Vectra some years ago (it may have been AMK), where the track rod ball was tight in its socket which resulted in the track rod fracturing.

In my view a recon rack at that price would be better than a second hand one for a little less. Personally I've fitted racks from motor factors to my own cars and never had any problems.

If you're feeling brave, I believe Tom did a thread on replacing non-PAS with PAS

If you're feeling brave, I believe Tom did a thread on replacing non-PAS with PAS

i did ask them, but they want the cheaper alternative i would have enjoyed the challenge though

ahh dammit i threw a steering rack in a skip a couple of days ago.. never mind :wonder:

^^^^^ is always the way.

the law of sod in action again..

the law of sod in action again..

well, swap is done. what a stupid place to put the rear clamp botls though

thank god for my dads 1/2" UJ ! (i dont have one lol and i could not figure out a way of removing the rear bolts without one lol)

yeah it's a right royal pain up the keeshter having to drop the subframe to get the steering rack off

yeah it's a right royal pain up the keeshter having to drop the subframe to get the steering rack off

Tom, i cannot believe that you of all people do not own a 1/2 inch drive UJ for sockets etc!

i didnt have to drop anythhing with the UJ - was still a pain in the rear though (had to bend all funny)

yes you must have little fingers like japs, it can be done without dropping the subframe on the non-pas models, but access to the fluid unions is really tight on the pas ones

yes you must have little fingers like japs, it can be done without dropping the subframe on the non-pas models, but access to the fluid unions is really tight on the pas ones

no i got big manly hands thank-you-very-much in all seriousness, it was a pain getting the socket to stay on the rear bolts, even with the UJ, and i was sorta half in the bay with one leg in the air. was a proper comedy look i reckon

the only diffucilt bit now is getting the steering wheel 100% straigh, its ever so slightly cocked to the right, butmoving the wheel one spline is too much. and yes, i did properly centre / align the rack and i got it tracked at the same place i entrust my MR2 with, and it drives straight and proper, its just a little wonkey. hmmmmm - any ideas?

by the way i changed the whole lot - recon rack, new rod ends and rod end locknuts

IDEA : can i correct the wheel by adjusting each rod end by say 1/4 turn and see? as its cocked to the right i think drivers side come in 1/4 and passenger out by 1/4

would that work?

Edited 3 March, 201115 yr by poorly_felicia

yes just tried to post, wind one end in, and wind one end out but i got a dropped connection so it didn't work i think

yes just tried to post, wind one end in, and wind one end out but i got a dropped connection so it didn't work i think

cool, thanks! how much tolerance is there you think (im bound to spin the tie rod a little when i undo the locknut) before its re-tracking time again? would 1/2 turn each side difference make no real significant difference or is it tighter than that?