Update:

Well have changed the thermostat however a few notes on the job for all the others that try it

• You will need a 5mm Allen key to remove the two housing bolts.
  
• Getting the rubber hose off to drain the system is difficult. Undo the bracket that supports the metal cooling pipe that leads to the thermostat makes it easier to move the hose and drain the system.
  
• Thermostat stays in place due to the seal, gently prise out to drain the remaining coolant.
  

Otherwise a fairly easy upside down job. Having the car on ramps makes life a lot better.

Improvements, well the engine temp seems to be slightly higher. Gauge would stop 1/3rd way round and now stops about halfway and gets there quicker as well. Took a awhile to get all the air out of the system but since Saturday afternoon it has not dropped anymore since filling to halfway between min and max.

Also bled the injectors as no 4 (far right) sounded tinny. Sister comments are so far:-

• Temp gauge is slightly higher
  
• Glow plug light does not come on after a short trip but did before.
  
• Does not 'cough' if in to higher a gear
  
• No steering wheel judder over 50 any more (did not know it did that before and I never touched the steering :wonder: )
  

WIll know a bit more later in the week when she has done some of the 'shorter' stops to see if it starts OK.

New Update.

Car was still playing around even after my changing of the thermostat and Temp sensor to original Skoda ones.

However

Car seems to be working, much to my sisters happiness now after being taken to a family friend mechanic who had a look over yesterday.

It seems that the battery was at fault :wonder: . Whilst it was charging so the alternator was good it did not seem to like having the current drawn from it when trying to start. She is going to be keeping an eye on it over the next few weeks but thought I would inform people as this seem that it may also be a cause for poor starting.

Just had a thought about this, and I may be wrong.

Cold deisel engines have, I believe, quite a large tolerance as when they are running they are generating a greater amount of heat than a petrol version. Thus when the engine is cold there is enough juice in the battery to be able to turn the engine sufficently toallow it to start.

When hot however the tolerances will be much tighter and therefore a greater amount of friction between the cylinders and bores. So the battery needs to supply a greater amount of capicity which it can not if the battery is at fault.

Does this sound good in theory.

Just had a thought about this, and I may be wrong.

Cold deisel engines have, I believe, quite a large tolerance as when they are running they are generating a greater amount of heat than a petrol version. Thus when the engine is cold there is enough juice in the battery to be able to turn the engine sufficently toallow it to start.

When hot however the tolerances will be much tighter and therefore a greater amount of friction between the cylinders and bores. So the battery needs to supply a greater amount of capicity which it can not if the battery is at fault.

Does this sound good in theory.

I have been having exactly the same issues over the last coulpe of months. As it turns out the wiring loom between temp sensor and starter, battery has proven to be deteriorated. And so I had to put in a new battery and at the same time fitted a new heater activation button that allows me to boost the heating at any time to assist starting from hot or cold, via a new wiring link. This I have discovered after already replacing the temp sensor and heater plugs.

All running well now