Cylinder Head Info. Wanted.

[allan donald]

I am about to remove the cylinder head of my receantly purchased Rapid 130 Convertable, this is because when i got it running it was boiling like an old kettle.

My main concern is about the head bolt torque settings . I have a Haynes manual which states the settings for a 105 and 120, also in the supplement section settings for a 136 which I believe has an alloy head whereas my 130 has a cast head, therefor should I be using the torque info for the 105 /120 as i believe the heads are the same. I hope this makes sence. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[hawkeracing]

Use the 105/120 engines settings they are the same as the 130. The 136 is effectively a different engine with a different type bolt, bolt pattern and head material. The 130 is just an evolution of the 120 engine. It would be worth checking the head hasnt warped if its boiled as you say because thats a common problem....also check to see if it has cracked as that is also common. Look between the valves on the middle cylinders, although it can be hard to see when cold.

Edited 26 March, 2011 by hawkeracing

[allan donald]

Thanks for that, I am going to take the head of this afternoon after I have cut the grass, unfortunately got to take advantage of the good weather while it lasts. First cut of the year.

[Kieranzxt]

Bare in mind that the quoted Haynes figuresd are generally accepted as being low, the recommended (by Skoda) torque figures are:

50 ft/lb for the bolts

25 ft/lb for the nuts.

Also check the thermostat hasnt seized shut and that the coolant has been bled without airlocks.

[allan donald]

Hi thanks for the info. greatly appreciated, I intend changing the thermostat and the weater pump, its not leaking but has a lot of play on the shaft, I only noticed this once I took the fan belt of. I think I will also have to change the radiator switch for the cooling fan. I have bypassed this at the moment and put a switch in.