hi all,my track car project is going to be an octavia 4x4 and i had a good look around and will be going to see one tmrw,i'm good on mechanicals but is there anything i should pay paticular attention to.i have'nt driven the 4x4 before,how does the 4wd come in,does it feel constant or do you feel the power transfer to the rear as the front loses traction? in the end it will be stripped out with a ko3s hybrid plus from badger 5,they make 316 bhp already.alot less than bt money too.you guys got any good ideas,the car is red,looks mint and is low miles. i already know it needs a cambelt which i can do myself if i get the time,i fancy doing a rally car replica with the decals,colour change and other such bits,what do you think?

I had a stage 1 A3 Quattro, which shares the same Haldex system as Skoda 4x4 & can't say I ever noticed any transfer to the rear. What was very noticeable was no torque steer at all.

Like the rally replica idea

sounds like a good plan. Would be interesting to see if the badger 5 hybrid actually makes them figures, I've heard a few fairy stories about figures being stated about hybrids that actually never materialize.

OEM springs, shocks and ARB are naff, so you'll get no real idea of how they can handle by driving an OEM one tbh

The OEM haldex controller reacts to slippage, and upon sensing it transfers power to the rear. The transfer of power is gradual. It will not handle like a normal torsen diff 4x4 ( scooby, evo, rs4, etc )

The 4x4 system can be upgraded. There are two upgraded haldex ecus' - 'blue' haldex and 'orange' haldex (also known as the competion controller). The difference between the two is about how the haldex disengages the power.

There is also a 'diff locker' device which forces the haldex clutch to engage permanently.

With uprating to a O2M gearbox you can install an ATB diff, the rear transverse diff can also the upgraded to an ATB diff

Suspension & brakewise anything an R32 can use, the octy can use.

Don't bother with a KKK if after power, You;ll need new mani, headwork, etc to support the badger5 setup, so just go for a proper fast spooling turbo.

You will need deep deep pockets to properly sort a 4x4

Badging the car as a WRC in wrong imo, the WRC car ain't a Skoda, it was made by ProDrive. Its more scooby than skoda.

Things to look for when buying

Everything from the normal buyers guide +

Check for movement of rear driveshafts

Check for rust on the trailing arms (near where they join body)

Look for oil leaks round the rear diff casings

The ideal way to test the haldex is to get the car off the ground - all wheels should rotate in drive, the rears should stop rotating when you apply the brakes lightly

When taking the car for a test drive, listen for any strange sounds from the rear ~ you shouldn't hear anything

Ideally you want to know whether the haldex unit is ok, and tbh the only real way to rest that on the road, is to try a manoeuvre which would get the rear end of a FWD to pop-out

That would test haldex engagement

To test disengagement, accerate into a hard corner, and at the apex (where you have minimal traction), brake hard. If the car voilently oversteers, feeling like the rear is being pushed out, the haldex hasn't disengaged

If you want info on a tuned 4x4, send a pm to stuart_j as he had a very nice one

Under normal conditions its 90% front drive and 10% rear