Finally got my new disc and pads on, went for a spin and the brakes are working.

However the rear discs were hot (drivers sie) and very hot (passenger side) so obviously they're binding a little.

Obviously the pistons must have been wound back enough, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get the pads on. When I'd re-assembled I checked the handbrake and it had between 4 and 7 notches on it. So what's the likely cause of my binding? Should I try slackening the handbrake adjuster by the saddle off a smidgin?

Tom

I don't like "bumping" but I'm rather in need of some help on this one.

I don't want to boil the fluid, warp the disk or burn the pads out after all the hassle I've been through.

Tom

Is more than likley the caliper is seizing...Mine did it when I changed pads,When you wind it back they seize up sometimes.Also be sure you wound it back all the way so it can reset....

Hmm, I'm not sure if the pistons were right the way back. They were far enough back for me to get the new pads and disks in without a problem though.

I was wondering if someone might have taken up the slack in the hand brake with the nut behind the lever and I need to release this? There are only 4 click to be had, well unless you applied it from the back seat with both hands?!

How do I test for sticking pistons and release them if they are?

If I need to dismantle them again should I not put new bolts in again?

Tom

Hmm, I'm not sure if the pistons were right the way back. They were far enough back for me to get the new pads and disks in without a problem though.

I was wondering if someone might have taken up the slack in the hand brake with the nut behind the lever and I need to release this? There are only 4 click to be had, well unless you applied it from the back seat with both hands?!

How do I test for sticking pistons and release them if they are?

If I need to dismantle them again should I not put new bolts in again?

Tom

Should not have to wind back caliper all the way to reset, there is no resetting as such , just the rear brake will learn the thickness of the pads and adjust piston accordingly. If you got new pads in ok then that should be ok. 4 clicks on handbrake does feel too tight. I would wind the nut back to around 7 clicks or more to just bed new pads in ok. Then adjust backwards if needed.

I have seen a number of folks have handbrake cable too tight and cause binding.

I didn't adjust the handbrake cable, never have since I got the car just less than a year ago.

I simply didn;t notice how warn the rear pads were, though I did notice a chance in the amount of hand brake action needed. I suspect therefore that it could well be that the slack had been taken up and with new pads it's now too tight.

I'll wind it off a smidgin tonight and see what happens.

Tom

I didn't adjust the handbrake cable, never have since I got the car just less than a year ago.

I simply didn;t notice how warn the rear pads were, though I did notice a chance in the amount of hand brake action needed. I suspect therefore that it could well be that the slack had been taken up and with new pads it's now too tight.

I'll wind it off a smidgin tonight and see what happens.

Tom

I think you will find that the problem...

Check that the handbrake lever is returning fully to the stop.. Also a lot of non genuine pads are a very tight fit in the carrier and require the edges filing down a bit to make them move easily,

the other thing to do if they are tight is to remove the stainless steel shims and clean the carrier up under where they sit as it rusts up and makes it too tight then refit the shims.

OK, I've been busy as hell, but time to get back to this.

I let the handbrake adjust off quite a way and it's helped, but not solved the problem.

My one handed wrench has arrived, the buggered bolt remover kit has arrived, and I've invested in a new wire brush and a small wire brush, so this weekend I'm going back to it.

The plan is to take the calipers off, then give the carriers a good brushing and/or filing to get them clean and smooth, refit the pads, checking they move freely.

Three questions:

1. Is it possible to "exercise" the piston? Just so I can make sure it's free and moving easily.

2. The guide bolts have been in for a couple of weeks now, and the car has been driven this week. Should I get new bolts or will these still be ok?

3. The boot over the piston on one side has a small hole in it, are these easy to replace? I could see how the moving end fitted over, but not the static end. (The hole isn't the cause of the binding, it's on the side that seems to be releasing - less heat)

Thanks

Tom