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Aircon fails, magnetic clutch or what?

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Hey on the forum.

I'm new on this forum, and will give it a try, as I have some trouble with my aircon. It has been checked by my mechanic - for pressure and freon. Everything Ok. My mechanic has given up.

When I turn the button to the aircon the fan starts, the engine goes up on RPM, but nothing happens. It dos'nt cool. If I put 12 V directly on the magnetic clutch the aircon works. I measured on the the wire to the clutch - it varies all the time between 3,8 and up to 11 volts.

Can anyone help me? Is it the radiator fan control unit, or could it be the convience electrics central control, the central locking system.

I have experienced problems with the central locking system (suddenly locked), the fuse for interiorlight, electrical windows motor - sometimes burns.

Is there any context between these things

Hope for some help

Hey on the forum.

I'm new on this forum, and will give it a try, as I have some trouble with my aircon. It has been checked by my mechanic - for pressure and freon. Everything Ok. My mechanic has given up.

When I turn the button to the aircon the fan starts, the engine goes up on RPM, but nothing happens. It dos'nt cool. If I put 12 V directly on the magnetic clutch the aircon works. I measured on the the wire to the clutch - it varies all the time between 3,8 and up to 11 volts.

Can anyone help me? Is it the radiator fan control unit, or could it be the convience electrics central control, the central locking system.

I have experienced problems with the central locking system (suddenly locked), the fuse for interiorlight, electrical windows motor - sometimes burns.

Is there any context between these things

Hope for some help

This is a Mk1.

A common fault is a bad contact at the 4-pin connector that slots into the bracket attached to the starter motor. The wires at this point can also go brittle. If you get 12V here, then it's not the fan controller.

  • Author

This is a Mk1.

A common fault is a bad contact at the 4-pin connector that slots into the bracket attached to the starter motor. The wires at this point can also go brittle. If you get 12V here, then it's not the fan controller.

Hey. Thanks a lot. I’ll go and check immediately

  • Author

Hey. Thanks a lot. I’ll go and check immediately

  • Author

Hey again and thanks again. Unfortunately it didn’t work. I don’t get 12 V on the 4 pin connector at the altenator. But you was right. There was a bad connecting, but I didn’t seem to be the whole explanation. So I’ll try the fan controller. As I can see at the diagram the outside temperature censor also can affect the magnetic coupling.

I get the fan controller tomorrow – Tuesday. If it doesn’t work – og already now – do you have other proposals

First of all, the a/c light has to be on. You must have the blower on. Both radiator fans should run.

When the switch is on...

At the pressure switch - You should have 12V at pin 2 - short out pins 1 and 2 to test.

At the ambient temp switch - You should have 12V at pin 2 - short out pins to test.

At the coolant temp switch - You should have 12V at pin 1 short out pins to test

At the fan controller - You should have 12V at pins 5 and 8. Apply 12V to test

  • Author

First of all, the a/c light has to be on. You must have the blower on. Both radiator fans should run.

When the switch is on...

At the pressure switch - You should have 12V at pin 2 - short out pins 1 and 2 to test. this was

At the ambient temp switch - You should have 12V at pin 2 - short out pins to test.

At the coolant temp switch - You should have 12V at pin 1 short out pins to test

At the fan controller - You should have 12V at pins 5 and 8. Apply 12V to test

Dear you again

I put a new fan controller and a new ambient temp switch. No change. It didn't work

I took yours proposals and the results are ad follows:

I couldn’t get the pressure switch loos. The switch is new – my mecanican said the old was defect. I hope he har made a messure on it!

The others came out like this:

Colant temp switch: shortcut (I hope I understood it correct: shortcut with a clip, one end to a hole, the other end to the other hole, measure on that and the other to ground) showed 12 V (or 13,5v correctly)

Ambient temp switch: short cut and was 0,9 V!! Between the pins 4,0 V, between one hole and ground was aprox the same.

The fan controller: Pins 5= 6,5 V and pin 8= 6,5V (or 6,4)and not 12 V!!

Have you any proposals? I'll be glad to hear!

Edited by vejleaa

The last part of the last test is to take a wire from battery +12V to pins 5/8 of the fan controller. Does the a/c run?

  • Author

The last part of the last test is to take a wire from battery +12V to pins 5/8 of the fan controller. Does the a/c run?

Hey and thanks again - I'll se if I can do it this evening

  • Author

Hey again again

I took to pinns to what I thought was the right thing - to the female of the fan controller or 14 pinn wire - I didn't work. Was that right understood?

And it was negative - no result - but the engine went up in rpm. But no cooling.

What is your answer - waiting Anxious

My mecanican has testet the compressor - he but 12V directly to the magnetic coupling - og it runs

Edited by vejleaa

I need to check my notebook. I'll post again tomorrow.

  • Author

Ok, of cource. you have been to very much help - thanks again.

Have a good day tomorrow and god night

Edited by vejleaa

You have PM.

This is now fixed. Turned out to be a bent pin at the compressor.

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